Buying a mini mill

[mrsbruce]

I can’t remember where I bought the pad, but it was probibly amazon or ebay.

It was an offcut of the pad I bought to go under my leather stamping granite slab, and it was the densest anti vibration rubber pad I could find. There was certainly some weight to it.

 

[optima21]

optima21, I bought this size because the specs said that, I have no idea. One solution could be to make lees deep cuts? Or is better to buy a 1 inch face mill?

I dont think you can get 1" face mills with 4 or more insert cutters, and the 6 toothed cutters I use are HSS so if they go blunt you'll need to be able to sharpen them. you can get get them like this

Dormer Shell End Mills 1-1/4” x 1/2” HSS Metal Cutters (TD21,D3) | eBay

<p>Dormer Shell End Mills 1-1/4” x 1/2” HSS Metal Cutters (TD21,D3)</p>

www.ebay.co.uk

but you'll need an adaptor to hold them

a flycutter is an easier option, as it is a single point cutting tool it is easy enough to sharpen (if you have the correct abrasive) or if you use a cutter with an insert you can replace that. flycutters are cheaply available to try (not sure what taper you use though)

2 MORSE TAPER FLYCUTTER WITH TOOLBIT FOR LATHE MILL | eBay

2 MT FLYCUTTER. SUPERB VALUE FLYCUTTER FOR YOUR LATHE OR MILLING MACHINE. TAPPED 3/8 BSW FOR A DRAW BAR- OUR FLYCUTTERS INCLUDE THE SQUARE HSS TOOLSTEEL!

www.ebay.co.uk

depth of cut is relative to the sharpness of the cutter, and cutters need to be sharp, and they need to cut, if the cutters are blunt and the depth of cut is too low, the cutter will rub against the surface which can make the situation worse. What you'll find is that you need to try different things until you find something that works for you and then you'll use that setup next time. Its a learning experience and just use reference tables as a guide. over time you'll get a feel for the machine and what works for you. with flycutting I'll normally use 1600rpm (as I use carbide) and between 0.15 and 0.40mm depth of cut (depending on material and finish) I have no idea of the feed rate but it'll be somewhere between 0.5 and 1.0mm per second. if you look at the larger flycutter tip I posted earlier today the 45 degree angle at the cutting edge reduces the stress on the cuttting edge and gives a better finish than having a vertical cutting edge.

 

[Robert1998]

I can’t remember where I bought the pad, but it was probibly amazon or ebay.

It was an offcut of the pad I bought to go under my leather stamping granite slab, and it was the densest anti vibration rubber pad I could find. There was certainly some weight to it.

Thanks for your answer.

This is my set up


The antivibration pad must go under the 4 legs on the floor right?

I also screw the table to the wall



It makes a lot of noise because the metal sheet of the wall amplifies the sound of the vibration, but i think it gives a lot of rigiditu to the table

I dont think you can get 1" face mills with 4 or more insert cutters, and the 6 toothed cutters I use are HSS so if they go blunt you'll need to be able to sharpen them. you can get get them like this

Dormer Shell End Mills 1-1/4” x 1/2” HSS Metal Cutters (TD21,D3) | eBay

<p>Dormer Shell End Mills 1-1/4” x 1/2” HSS Metal Cutters (TD21,D3)</p>

www.ebay.co.uk

but you'll need an adaptor to hold them

a flycutter is an easier option, as it is a single point cutting tool it is easy enough to sharpen (if you have the correct abrasive) or if you use a cutter with an insert you can replace that. flycutters are cheaply available to try (not sure what taper you use though)

2 MORSE TAPER FLYCUTTER WITH TOOLBIT FOR LATHE MILL | eBay

2 MT FLYCUTTER. SUPERB VALUE FLYCUTTER FOR YOUR LATHE OR MILLING MACHINE. TAPPED 3/8 BSW FOR A DRAW BAR- OUR FLYCUTTERS INCLUDE THE SQUARE HSS TOOLSTEEL!

www.ebay.co.uk

depth of cut is relative to the sharpness of the cutter, and cutters need to be sharp, and they need to cut, if the cutters are blunt and the depth of cut is too low, the cutter will rub against the surface which can make the situation worse. What you'll find is that you need to try different things until you find something that works for you and then you'll use that setup next time. Its a learning experience and just use reference tables as a guide. over time you'll get a feel for the machine and what works for you. with flycutting I'll normally use 1600rpm (as I use carbide) and between 0.15 and 0.40mm depth of cut (depending on material and finish) I have no idea of the feed rate but it'll be somewhere between 0.5 and 1.0mm per second. if you look at the larger flycutter tip I posted earlier today the 45 degree angle at the cutting edge reduces the stress on the cuttting edge and gives a better finish than having a vertical cutting edge.

Thank you for the time you spend lloking up for this things!

 

[mrsbruce]

I actually put the pad directly under the mill itself, then bolted the mill through and into the table as normal. Everything stays solid, but it reduce the excessive noise and vibration to an acceptable level.

You can’t get rid of it all, but you can reduce the resonating from increasing, and passing on the ‘vibe’ to all the other bits until you end up with a mass choir, so to speak.

 

[Robert1998]

oh, I thought that in that way the screws would transmit the vibration, but I´ll doit in the way you said.

Thank you!

 

[Robert1998]

Hi everyone.

Thank fpr all your help, I have been very busy but finally I have been able to set up the mill properly.

I have used a belt and a screw to apply a small force at the top of the column.



In the other face of the wall there is a nut to apply more or less tension. Now the desviation is below 0,01mm in 15 cm of path of the head.

I can’t remember where I bought the pad, but it was probibly amazon or ebay.

It was an offcut of the pad I bought to go under my leather stamping granite slab, and it was the densest anti vibration rubber pad I could find. There was certainly some weight to it.

I have used 3 sheets (6mm each) of nitrile rubber between the table and the mill. Now is more smooth. But at the bottom, the nuts of the screws make direct contact with the metal base. Should I put another nitirile shhet between the metal base of the table and the nuts? Would it be worth it?

 

[mrsbruce]

Hi everyone.

Thank fpr all your help, I have been very busy but finally I have been able to set up the mill properly.

I have used a belt and a screw to apply a small force at the top of the column.



In the other face of the wall there is a nut to apply more or less tension. Now the desviation is below 0,01mm in 15 cm of path of the head.





I have used 3 sheets (6mm each) of nitrile rubber between the table and the mill. Now is more smooth. But at the bottom, the nuts of the screws make direct contact with the metal base. Should I put another nitirile shhet between the metal base of the table and the nuts? Would it be worth it?

Mine is bolted onto a couple of inches thick lump of solid wood table top. Yes, yours might benefit from even just some thick rubber washers between the nuts and the underside of the table.

 

[Robert1998]

thank you