I think the point here is that is SO EASY FOR CAST IRON WELDING TO GO WRONG.
In particular with the cooling process. My preferred method is cold welding but it is SO tempting to fire up a rod before the item has gotten completely cold.
I have a Lister CS engine that had two BIG triangular frost damage holes in it. Both 3inX3inX3in. I welded both these back into the block (nickle steel rods) but it took an absolute age.
Laurence
Sorry no pictures I did weld the two broken bits back in. I then after grinding I gave it a coat of liquid metal not that there was anything wrong with the welding but just as a filler. The liquid metal finish was just like that of the cast iron then I painted it. Damaged areas are now COMPLETELY invisible.Any pictures? I have a frost damaged Lister D to patch up, did you just weld the original bits back in?
First I cleaned up the broken areas and ground the edges to simulate V ing out. The triangular broken pieces were then set into their respective holes held flush by just starting in self tapping screws. Tricky to set up but done successfully I then tacked the triangular pieces in on all three edges. I then started to weld up spreading the use of each single rod round the three edges. When finished each rod I allowed to cool completely before starting another rod. That is about it. Nickel steel rods with a 180 amp Oiympic bantamWith rig pig, more info on how you did it would be good ...what you used and how. (cast iron virgin here) thanks