i take ur point dissasembley would incur damage i feel,,i am bidding on the heatsink fan job to mount 200a bridge rectifier .what would be really helpful is the wiring which bits go where please ? oh final thought do i need capacitors to smooth output can the ones be used of old unit ?
- Thread starter philb
- Start date
The AC output from your transformer is two thick solid wires ( probably aluminium wire ), covered in convoluted red sleeving, rising vertically out of the transformer windings up to two bolted connections on the original rectifier.
You would need to unbolt those two connections, squeeze the ring-ends into smaller circles if possible, and join them to the two AC input terminals on the new 200A diode block. These are the two wider-spaced screw terminals, marked with "~" for AC.
Since this is AC, it does not matter which way round the two wires go. You need to bend the wires slowly and carefully, so that they do not fracture. The wires should be bent and spaced correctly before attaching them to the diode block, so that there is no stress on the diode block terminals. You probably will have to use the original larger washers from the old rectifier, to ensure full clamping of the thick wires.
The positive output of the new diode block, marked "+", goes to the thick black cable that was bolted to the back left corner of your old rectifier. There is also a thin red wire joining there. This thick black cable goes to the brass block of the socket for the Euro torch ( which is positive ).
The negative output of the new rectifier, marked "-", has to connect to the thick solid wire from the inductor ( choke ). This component is the second, right-hand, coil, next to the main transformer coils. The wire is the lowest, left-hand, connection on the original rectifier. Again, you will have to pre-bend the wire carefully into position, and tighten up the eye on the end of the wire to suit the smaller diameter "-" screw terminal on the new diode block.
The inductor also has a thinner, bare wire going up to the small square top plate of the original 6-diode rectifier. If you are not going to bother with the special Cebora inductor feedback circuit, you can just insulate the end of this wire and leave it off.
The small blue "capacitors" are voltage dependent resistors ( VDR or MOV ), used to protect the diodes by suppressing high-voltage spikes. You can take one from the old rectifier and wire it across the positive & negative terminals of the new diode block. It does not matter which way round the component wires are connected.
You would need to unbolt those two connections, squeeze the ring-ends into smaller circles if possible, and join them to the two AC input terminals on the new 200A diode block. These are the two wider-spaced screw terminals, marked with "~" for AC.
Since this is AC, it does not matter which way round the two wires go. You need to bend the wires slowly and carefully, so that they do not fracture. The wires should be bent and spaced correctly before attaching them to the diode block, so that there is no stress on the diode block terminals. You probably will have to use the original larger washers from the old rectifier, to ensure full clamping of the thick wires.
The positive output of the new diode block, marked "+", goes to the thick black cable that was bolted to the back left corner of your old rectifier. There is also a thin red wire joining there. This thick black cable goes to the brass block of the socket for the Euro torch ( which is positive ).
The negative output of the new rectifier, marked "-", has to connect to the thick solid wire from the inductor ( choke ). This component is the second, right-hand, coil, next to the main transformer coils. The wire is the lowest, left-hand, connection on the original rectifier. Again, you will have to pre-bend the wire carefully into position, and tighten up the eye on the end of the wire to suit the smaller diameter "-" screw terminal on the new diode block.
The inductor also has a thinner, bare wire going up to the small square top plate of the original 6-diode rectifier. If you are not going to bother with the special Cebora inductor feedback circuit, you can just insulate the end of this wire and leave it off.
The small blue "capacitors" are voltage dependent resistors ( VDR or MOV ), used to protect the diodes by suppressing high-voltage spikes. You can take one from the old rectifier and wire it across the positive & negative terminals of the new diode block. It does not matter which way round the component wires are connected.
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ok thanks for that i am awaiting parts will keep u posted
well finaly getting around to do this just a quick question there is a small wire black u can just see on the pics i think it was attached to the 3 rd plate down seems to feed into the pcb then i think off to the feed motor ...on the new diode pack would this black wire be connected to the negative output wire
Hello again, I'm glad you are making progress!
In my post #22, I mentioned the thin red wire that shares the positive rectifier output with the heavy cable going to the Euro socket. but I seem to have forgotten that there's also a corresponding thin black wire on the negative rectifier output. As shown in the circuit diagram that you provided in post #5, and you suggested above, these two thin wires send power to the wirefeed motor via the PCB. So yes, this thin black wire needs to be connected to the negative output terminal of the replacement rectifier.
In my post #22, I mentioned the thin red wire that shares the positive rectifier output with the heavy cable going to the Euro socket. but I seem to have forgotten that there's also a corresponding thin black wire on the negative rectifier output. As shown in the circuit diagram that you provided in post #5, and you suggested above, these two thin wires send power to the wirefeed motor via the PCB. So yes, this thin black wire needs to be connected to the negative output terminal of the replacement rectifier.
