Circular saw blade for cutting oak doors?

[dobbslc]

What's the best number of saw blade teeth for cutting oak doors with my track saw? Someone told me less teeth were better.

 

[Kayos]

Less teeth is a coarser cut, however I'd say you want brand new and sharp, on a powerful saw

 

[Agroshield]

Look at the standard blades Festool sell for a TS55. The low tooth count one is sold for ripping with the grain. Higher tooth count for cross cutting.

For oak doors, a standard blade and a few passes at shallow cut depths is better than trying to go full depth and moving forward very slowly. Clamp the track so it does not move between passes.

 

[Mark 5]

Look at the standard blades Festool sell for a TS55. The low tooth count one is sold for ripping with the grain. Higher tooth count for cross cutting.

For oak doors, a standard blade and a few passes at shallow cut depths is better than trying to go full depth and moving forward very slowly. Clamp the track so it does not move between passes.

A new sharp blade try to do it in one pass, leave a couple mm to allow finishing with a planer.

 

[Blobber]

Are they solid oak or the oak veneer type with a different core? a lot of the new stuff just has a thick veneer

 

[dobbslc]

Less teeth is a coarser cut, however I'd say you want brand new and sharp, on a powerful saw

New 80 tooth blade on a reasonable track saw (no Festool here )

 

[dobbslc]

Look at the standard blades Festool sell for a TS55. The low tooth count one is sold for ripping with the grain. Higher tooth count for cross cutting.

For oak doors, a standard blade and a few passes at shallow cut depths is better than trying to go full depth and moving forward very slowly. Clamp the track so it does not move between passes.

I forgot about the shallow pass first technique! I did that on the upstairs doors and don't think I had any problems

 

[dobbslc]

Are they solid oak or the oak veneer type with a different core? a lot of the new stuff just has a thick veneer

They are veneer doors but heavy with solid top, side and bottom rails.

 

[Agroshield]

A new sharp blade try to do it in one pass, leave a couple mm to allow finishing with a planer.

The whole point of a tracksaw is that it gives table saw quality cuts to sub 1mm accuracy in a portable format. That means no planing. Light sand to break the sharp edges is all that is needed.

Planing the top or bottom of a door needs skill and a sharp plane as the vertical stiles are end grain and the horizontal rail is not. Unless you go very carefully, the end grain at the finish of the cut will chip out.

 

[julianf]

We are a fair way in and no one has asked you if you are cross cutting or tip cutting?

You would use a different tooth count for each.

Ripping you use a lower tooth count, otherwise it burns.

Cross cutting you use a higher tooth count, otherwise the cut is poor.

 

[cheb]

The whole point of a tracksaw is that it gives table saw quality cuts to sub 1mm accuracy in a portable format. That means no planing. Light sand to break the sharp edges is all that is needed.

Planing the top or bottom of a door needs skill and a sharp plane as the vertical stiles are end grain and the horizontal rail is not. Unless you go very carefully, the end grain at the finish of the cut will chip out.

You can stop that happening by clamping a squelch block at the far end, it'll chip but it stops the door doing so.

 

[Mark 2]

The (red) Freud ones are lovely.

 

[dobbslc]

We are a fair way in and no one has asked you if you are cross cutting or tip cutting?

Both
I'll try the 1mm pre cut feature on the saw tomorrow.
This is the reason I'm trimming doors.

 

[julianf]

Both
I'll try the 1mm pre cut feature on the saw tomorrow.
This is the reason I'm trimming doors.

In the past, I've tried to avoid the bother of changing the blade on my table saw for swapping between rip and cross cuts.

I've learnt that, unless you really don't care, it's just not worth using the wrong blade.

As per my prior post, you can use a rip saw for cross cutting. It will cut fine, but the cut will be ragged. So, if you don't care, that's a possibility.

But rip cuts with a cross cutting blade really aren't worth doing, even if you don't care for the job. It's always worth changing the blade for them.

I don't even really know the physics of it all. I just know what I've experienced.

 

[dobbslc]

To be honest I don't know what the new 80T blade is. How do you tell?

 

[julianf]

Pretty sure it's teeth per inch.

 

[daleyd]

I think that’s total teeth rather than per inch?

 

[MattF]

To be honest I don't know what the new 80T blade is. How do you tell?

24, 40 & 80 tooth are the standard tooth circular saw blades, if I recall correctly. 24 is rough & ready, 40's your inbetween, 80 has some finesse. It's merely the number of teeth on the blade, as @daleyd says.

 

[MattF]

Pretty sure it's teeth per inch.

Only on a reciprocating saw blade. Circular is the total tooth count.

 

[Shedendman]

80 tooth,masking tape both sides of the cut,raise the blade up so its just(2mm) or so on the bottom,gentle push