Circular saw blade for cutting oak doors?

[SierraV6]

80 tooth,masking tape both sides of the cut,raise the blade up so its just(2mm) or so on the bottom,gentle push

If you don’t want do make multiple passes this is the way to do it; I’ve had good results this way myself. Maybe I’ve just been lucky, as I’m a bit of an amateur when it comes to wood bothering!

 

[julianf]

I think that’s total teeth rather than per inch?

Only on a reciprocating saw blade. Circular is the total tooth count.

I can see that you're right -

But this then makes a mockery out of any suggestion that then does not ask the diameter of the blade first.

 

[Agroshield]

24, 40 & 80 tooth are the standard tooth circular saw blades...y

Without mentioning the diameter of the blade, these numbers are meaningless.

The OP has mentioned he is to use a tracksaw. An 80t tracksaw-sized (circa-165mm diameter) blade is aimed towards non-ferrous materials.

As above, Festool generally know what they are talking about. They are also kind enough to share their knowledge. We would do well to take advantage of that kindness and educate ourselves on the basis of their experience:

Circular saw blades from Festool for perfect cuts

Circular saw blades ⨠Cross-cut tooth â Flat tooth â & other shapes ⨠perform faster â longer perfect cuts â ⨠Festool

www.festool.co.uk

As above, Freud and CMT Orange are other blade makers and will have similar information available. Even if you do not buy their brand, the connection they all make between tooth count and application will be valid for any brand.

 

[daleyd]

Without mentioning the diameter of the blade, these numbers are meaningless

Not really - they are a comparison when buying a blade of the same size - so you know that for a saw of x size an 80T blade is finer than a 42 T blade which is again finer than a 24T blade.

Of course meaningless when comparing blades of different sizes but then you wouldn’t be buying a blade of a different sizes for one saw…

 

[dave h 2]

The whole point of a tracksaw is that it gives table saw quality cuts to sub 1mm accuracy in a portable format. That means no planing. Light sand to break the sharp edges is all that is needed.

Planing the top or bottom of a door needs skill and a sharp plane as the vertical stiles are end grain and the horizontal rail is not. Unless you go very carefully, the end grain at the finish of the cut will chip out.

The way to prevent 'chipping out' is use a marking gauge (toolstation 4 quid) With the pointy bit held trailing at an angle it cuts across the grain just enough to break the fibres so you don't get the splinter explosion .

 

[dobbslc]

To be honest I don't know what the new 80T blade is. How do you tell?

What I meant is I don't know if this blade is for rip cuts or cross cuts.

 

[MattF]

It should cut along the grain fine. Just let the blade do the work. Don't overly push it.

Oh, & don't blame me if it cuts like sh*t.

Do you not have a scrap of oak to test on?

 

[cheb]

IME Frog tape is better than masking tape for this.

 

[MattF]

@eLuSiVeMiTe would be a good choice to definitively answer the question, if he were knocking about on here.

 

[Kayos]

@eLuSiVeMiTe would be a good choice to definitively answer the question, if he were knocking about on here.

Another who prioritised his mental health and left

 

[MattF]

Another who prioritised his mental health

I think I lost that option years ago.

 

[Newlands]

It looks like you're cutting the bottom off the doors, so all the talk about changing blades for ripping and crosscutting is irrelevant. If you've got a decent track saw with a sharp 24t blade, and a track with a decent sacrificial plastic strip on it, you can cut dead to the line and there won't be any tearing out anywhere. You might have to take a couple of shallower passes for a hardwood door - I would normally do that on, say, an oak door. A couple of strokes with a sharp plane to put a small chamfer on and that's it. That's what a tracksaw does - no faffing around with marking gauges or masking tape.

 

[dobbslc]

Update:
I had a fettle with the saw and found that the blade was about 1.5mm off the splinter guard not sure how that had happened and it explains the splinters, anyway I peeled off the splinter guard and repositioned it then did a test cut on some scrap wood to trim the guard.
I set it up on my door with the new 80 tooth blade and took a light cut first then one at the full depth, the result it perfect!


Thanks for the help, I'll probably buy a new strip of rubber guard and fit that but for now it's really cutting well.
Next job is cutting in the hinges...

 

[Newlands]

Looks good to me. And yes, the splinter guard is definitely what helps to make the cut perfect.

 

[MattF]

the result it perfect!

Good. I can stick my head above the parapet now then.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

@eLuSiVeMiTe would be a good choice to definitively answer the question, if he were knocking about on here.

Whatevers on the saw as long as it's not blunt or it will burn.

I generally only use 40 tooth

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Another who prioritised his mental health and left

No chance mate. Been looking for a house since October. Refused many times because we're both self employed.

Ended up relocating back to north Devon on the 14th.

 

[dobbslc]

Should be nice round there mate, good luck. How are the sprogs?

 

[slimjim]

I cut 7 of these a few weeks ago, just with a standard battery makita 36v circular saw with a new 40 tooth blade, made a fantastic job, no tear out, they were fire doors and expensive,
They cut better than cheap doors

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Should be nice round there mate, good luck. How are the sprogs?

Pretty devastated to be moving at Christmas for the second year running but now the house doesn't look like a warehouse they've settled in nicely. Wife has family down here and I know the area well so no too traumatic.

800 quid a month for a 3 bed house. 1600 and in worse shape back in Bedfordshire. Night actually be able to buy a house in the next few years.