- Thread starter Dr.Al
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. It says thrust washer on the parts drawing tho , I think it will be getting a flat washer and circlip 
Dr.Al
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Can't guarantee they're the same on yours as mine (in particular, the blade guide bearings vary from model to model), but here's a list for you anyway:
- 6202-ZZ and 6202-2RS for the ones in the worm-wheel gear box
- 629-ZZ are one possibility for the blade guide bearings
- 6000-ZZ are the other possibility for the blade guide bearings
- 6203-2RS are the ones inside the motor
Dr.Al
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A bit more progress on the base today. I shamelessly stole an idea from Dr Mike Cox's website and added a swarf collector to the base.
I started by drilling lots of holes in the side panel of the base:
I also welded some little brackets onto the bottom of the base:
Having yesterday made a sheet metal bender, I finished off this little swarf tray with wings today:
The wings (made from angle iron and attached with M5 cap screws) slide on the brackets on the bottom of the bandsaw base and so move with the base as I move the bandsaw out of the way of whatever I'm doing in the garage.
I bought a short length of 110 mm × 50 mm rectangular tubing from the local hardware shop (I assume it's intended for ventilation or something like that). I then cut lots of pockets in it with my Fein Multimaster (this photo was taken before I also cut a section out of the bottom):
This then bolted to the side plate:
and then the side plate was bolted in place and the swarf tray fitted:
The little plastic plate in the bottom right of the swarf "slide" isn't fixed in place yet: I'll probably fix that there with some "no-more-nails" or equivalent and at the same time run a bead of it down between the swarf slide and the side panel to stop swarf going in the join.
I think that's everything I'm going to do on the base for now (I may come back and fit a damper at some point, but I haven't decided whether to do that yet and there's a LOT more to do on the bandsaw to get it back to basic functionality before I worry about things like that).
I started by drilling lots of holes in the side panel of the base:
I also welded some little brackets onto the bottom of the base:
Having yesterday made a sheet metal bender, I finished off this little swarf tray with wings today:
The wings (made from angle iron and attached with M5 cap screws) slide on the brackets on the bottom of the bandsaw base and so move with the base as I move the bandsaw out of the way of whatever I'm doing in the garage.
I bought a short length of 110 mm × 50 mm rectangular tubing from the local hardware shop (I assume it's intended for ventilation or something like that). I then cut lots of pockets in it with my Fein Multimaster (this photo was taken before I also cut a section out of the bottom):
This then bolted to the side plate:
and then the side plate was bolted in place and the swarf tray fitted:
The little plastic plate in the bottom right of the swarf "slide" isn't fixed in place yet: I'll probably fix that there with some "no-more-nails" or equivalent and at the same time run a bead of it down between the swarf slide and the side panel to stop swarf going in the join.
I think that's everything I'm going to do on the base for now (I may come back and fit a damper at some point, but I haven't decided whether to do that yet and there's a LOT more to do on the bandsaw to get it back to basic functionality before I worry about things like that).
Dr.Al
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Looking at the bottom photo now, I might need to modify the swarf slide as it looks very close to where the switch housing will go. I need to make a new switch housing as the existing one is in several pieces, so I might be able to make it work without modifying the slide. A problem for another day...
Top work love the swarf slide , 
. Do you not use cutting oil /coolant ? I just use the aerosol stuff ,have you thought of fitting a pumped system .?
Any idea on paint type and colour ?enamel perhaps ?
Thanks for the bearing numbers
I'll check mine b4 ordering mine has a different motor to yours .
Cheers mike
. Do you not use cutting oil /coolant ? I just use the aerosol stuff ,have you thought of fitting a pumped system .?Any idea on paint type and colour ?enamel perhaps ?
Thanks for the bearing numbers
I'll check mine b4 ordering mine has a different motor to yours .Cheers mike
roofman
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When you get it all built back up make sure you dial in the vice with a small square on the square edge on the casting in relation to the blade for a clean 90 degree cut..find the 90 degree and mark the casting with a scribe or sharp file and also for the 45 degree. Reason being is the end of the curved slot is a couple of degree out on the 90 and 45 in relation to the blade
...Great job so far by the way
...Great job so far by the way
Dr.Al
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Top work love the swarf slide ,
Any idea on paint type and colour ?enamel perhaps ?
Thanks for the bearing numbers
Cheers mike
I rarely use coolant. When I do I just apply cutting fluid or paraffin (if cutting aluminium) with a brush or dripped slowly from a wash bottle. Not enough that I particularly feel the need to worry about catching it: most of it goes round with the blade. To be honest, when cutting EN1A (which is my most commonly cut material), I find the bandsaw does fine without.
Regarding paint, after a recommendation on this forum, I've bought some "Tractol" paint and primer. Once my paint stripper has arrived, that'll be one of the top priority jobs now. I've already colonised the dining room with a big tarpaulin!
When you get it all built back up make sure you dial in the vice with a small square on the square edge on the casting in relation to the blade for a clean 90 degree cut..find the 90 degree and mark the casting with a scribe or sharp file and also for the 45 degree. Reason being is the end of the curved slot is a couple of degree out on the 90 and 45 in relation to the blade
Sounds like a good idea: I tend to set it up with a square and leave it square as much as possible, but the scribe lines will simplify things a lot. I also quite like Dr Cox's angle blocks as a good method for small stuff.
Looking good. Re bearings I have taken mine off today and the 4 main guide bearings are 6200z, 10mm ID, 30mm OD. Mine is a Clarke but the bearing retaining bolt comes from below and doesn't have a nut on the top - although that may be because it has been changed in the past.....
cheers,
MM
. Re bearings I have taken mine off today and the 4 main guide bearings are 6200z, 10mm ID, 30mm OD. Mine is a Clarke but the bearing retaining bolt comes from below and doesn't have a nut on the top - although that may be because it has been changed in the past..... cheers,
MM
Dr.Al
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Little bit more progress today. First job was to make a new blade guard as the old one had been inadvertently cut into two pieces. I took a bit of 0.8 mm stock and cut it up like this (you can see the two parts of the old blade guard as well):
I drilled two holes with 44 mm spacing; I used a 10 mm spotting drill and kept drilling until the opening was just big enough to force an M6 screw through. I then got two new socket-head countersunk M6 screw (rather than bothering with the Phillips head ones that were original) and tightened them down as hard as I could in place to deform the sheet metal into the countersunk shape:
I cut the saw slit with tin snips and touched everything up on the belt sander. It's not pretty, but I think it'll do the job.
Next it was off to my two-day old sheet metal bender to make it into the right shape:
and finally weld along the corners (with the help of my ten-day old welder's third hand!)
The finished (pre-painting) article:
It's not much, but in the last few months I've taught myself (albeit not very well!) to TIG weld (and I've only tried thin metal like this in the last few days) and built myself a sheet metal bender, the cantilever clamps to go with it and a pair of welder's third hands, all from raw material. Without any of those things, I wouldn't have been able to make this simple part. So I'm rather chuffed all things considered.
I drilled two holes with 44 mm spacing; I used a 10 mm spotting drill and kept drilling until the opening was just big enough to force an M6 screw through. I then got two new socket-head countersunk M6 screw (rather than bothering with the Phillips head ones that were original) and tightened them down as hard as I could in place to deform the sheet metal into the countersunk shape:
I cut the saw slit with tin snips and touched everything up on the belt sander. It's not pretty, but I think it'll do the job.
Next it was off to my two-day old sheet metal bender to make it into the right shape:
and finally weld along the corners (with the help of my ten-day old welder's third hand!)
The finished (pre-painting) article:
It's not much, but in the last few months I've taught myself (albeit not very well!) to TIG weld (and I've only tried thin metal like this in the last few days) and built myself a sheet metal bender, the cantilever clamps to go with it and a pair of welder's third hands, all from raw material. Without any of those things, I wouldn't have been able to make this simple part. So I'm rather chuffed all things considered.
Dr.Al
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Today I also started the big job of painting. I still haven't got the paint stripper to deal with the bandsaw itself (and presumably won't get it tomorrow either what with it being New Year's Day), but that doesn't stop me working on the base. I've done very little painting of anything other than walls or skirting boards in the past and it's usually something I shy away from (I do the make-it-stay-up, my better half does the make-it-look-pretty). I also do everything I can to stay out of conversations about "what colour should it be", so hopefully the bandsaw will look alright after I make all the colour choices!
Anyway, colours have yet to appear: so far all I've done is the two half-coats (with the workpiece in different orientations) of some Tractol 816 light-grey primer (photo colours look odd because of the rubbish light in my dining room):
Base, swarf tray and new blade guard:
Shelves and swarf-tray "wings":
Talking of colours, I am slightly regretting only buying one colour when I ordered the Tractol paint. I had assumed I'd just get some black locally, but the Tractol stuff (the primer at least) seems to go on very well, so I might just have to bite the bullet and place another order (just means paying the high delivery price again unfortunately). I'll probably get some black, some more primer and maybe another colour as well to make it seem a bit more worthwhile.
Anyway, colours have yet to appear: so far all I've done is the two half-coats (with the workpiece in different orientations) of some Tractol 816 light-grey primer (photo colours look odd because of the rubbish light in my dining room):
Base, swarf tray and new blade guard:
Shelves and swarf-tray "wings":
Talking of colours, I am slightly regretting only buying one colour when I ordered the Tractol paint. I had assumed I'd just get some black locally, but the Tractol stuff (the primer at least) seems to go on very well, so I might just have to bite the bullet and place another order (just means paying the high delivery price again unfortunately). I'll probably get some black, some more primer and maybe another colour as well to make it seem a bit more worthwhile.
Dr.Al
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What's the opinion of more experienced folk regarding primer coats? I've done one (in two goes to cover the whole object) so far and it's looking like good coverage. Does it need a second coat of primer?
The wooden bits look like they'd benefit from a second coat, but I don't know what I'm looking for to know either way for the metal bits.
The wooden bits look like they'd benefit from a second coat, but I don't know what I'm looking for to know either way for the metal bits.
Dr.Al
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Mostly more coats of primer today (interspersed with a trip to the pub): I did both sides of the side panel and another coat on the wooden parts. No photos as I didn't think they'd be very interesting.
Also got started on the new switch housing to replace the one that's broken into three pieces.
Hacksawed off a big lump of black Acetal (aka Delrin). I miss having a bandsaw to cut stock up!
Got to play with my Flywheel Fly Cutter to square the stock up and give a lovely finish . It's lovely working with Acetal as you can take very, very deep cuts and the mill hardly notices.
All squared up (the TIG filler wire in the photo was used as a single "parallel" to get the stock square):
Then back to the mill to rough out the slot for the switch and to cover with black plastic any areas of my garage not dealt with by the fly cutter. Again it feels daft to be able to take circa 40 mm deep cuts in one go!
At the moment, I've tapped the mounting holes (M4, 20 mm deep threads in a 30 mm deep hole), but I might change my mind and mill out behind the mounting face and use a nut (like the original). That switch takes a fair amount of punishment from the bandsaw head landing on it.
Here's where I've left it for now (with a few bits of plastic "swarf" that made it to the other end of the garage):
I'll think about cable access and other features on the bottom on another day I think.
Also got started on the new switch housing to replace the one that's broken into three pieces.
Hacksawed off a big lump of black Acetal (aka Delrin). I miss having a bandsaw to cut stock up!
Got to play with my Flywheel Fly Cutter to square the stock up and give a lovely finish . It's lovely working with Acetal as you can take very, very deep cuts and the mill hardly notices.
All squared up (the TIG filler wire in the photo was used as a single "parallel" to get the stock square):
Then back to the mill to rough out the slot for the switch and to cover with black plastic any areas of my garage not dealt with by the fly cutter. Again it feels daft to be able to take circa 40 mm deep cuts in one go!
At the moment, I've tapped the mounting holes (M4, 20 mm deep threads in a 30 mm deep hole), but I might change my mind and mill out behind the mounting face and use a nut (like the original). That switch takes a fair amount of punishment from the bandsaw head landing on it.
Here's where I've left it for now (with a few bits of plastic "swarf" that made it to the other end of the garage):
I'll think about cable access and other features on the bottom on another day I think.
If you want to use 2 tractol colours on your saw massey ferguson super red, massey ferguson silver mist and gloss black all combine nicely with each other.
Dr.Al
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Thanks for that. Cirencester is only about 1/2 hour away. Shame I've already ordered some more from up north
Dr.Al
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Painting of the base structure is now complete (and it's had the weekend in a heated dining room to dry) and the swarf slide is attached and the top joint filled with no more nails:
Shiny!
The shelves, swarf tray and blade guard are all primed and waiting for the black Tractol paint, which should be arriving sometime today.
Back to work tomorrow (alas), so although I can do a bit of painting in the evenings, the paint stripping will have to wait until next weekend (assuming the paint stripper arrives by then) so I can do it outside in daylight.
Shiny!
The shelves, swarf tray and blade guard are all primed and waiting for the black Tractol paint, which should be arriving sometime today.
Back to work tomorrow (alas), so although I can do a bit of painting in the evenings, the paint stripping will have to wait until next weekend (assuming the paint stripper arrives by then) so I can do it outside in daylight.
