the snooper
getting older by the day
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bet it cost more then that
- Thread starter David2005
- Start date
Ya cost more than that alright but not too much more. Had no choice really as they're the only place around that does them.
Have you got a link to the motors????
Any of you guys have an idea about the wiring????
ilovemygt35r
apprentice
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- 55
im with brightspark, when my hydrovain compressor's motor went bang, i went to a couple of re-winders for quotes, the ******* they didnt tell me the motor was a bog standard type as im sure your one is, had a look on expensivebay got one for under 100
It only cost roughly £108 quid so I'm happy enough with it. If I was going to get one delivered it would cost alot more
What do you need to know about the wiring ?
Really you should do as suggested by Jason and take the motor and your caps to the re-winders and ask their advice, because if you fry it again they will obviously blame you.
Well I rang the crowd that did the motor and they said the LIVE (brown) wire from mains goes to the blue wire on the wiring block and the NEUTRAL (blue) wire from mains goes to the black wire on the wiring block.
As regards the caps they said to try the 40uf and the 30uf ones they supplied and if they didn't work use the 65uf and the 60uf ones.
Now I don't think they have any idea what they are talking about so I tried the 65uf and the 60uf first. I ran it without the belt and it ran freely and in the right direction.
So I put it back together and with the belt on its running seriously slowly although the motor wasn't very hot. Its alot slower than before.
I thought it might have been the 65uf & 60uf caps so I tried the 40uf & 30uf caps and the motor got hot straight away so I stopped it.
What could be causing it to run so slowly? Can they be rewound wrongly so they slow down?
When it is running slowly air just hisses out the pressure switch and I know when I was trying to see what the problem was before I adjusted the max pressure setting but surely it wouldn't be running slowly, it should build up the pressure and cut out.
Any ideas would be appreciated
the snooper
getting older by the day
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just ring them back tell them its not right its obviously their fault
unless you have a fault with the pump causing it to run slow
what caused the original winding to burn out ?
unless you have a fault with the pump causing it to run slow
what caused the original winding to burn out ?
How do I check the off load speed?
I can't see anything wrong with the pump as it'll turn over by hand freely.
It was suggested that it could have been the non-return valve but to be honest I don't really know.
You need a handheld test tachometer.
You'll have to excuse me, I have a habit of assuming others have the same test equipment as myself
the snooper
getting older by the day
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just disconnect the delivery pipe from the pump and try it, although i would imagine it to get slower and slower as pressure built up if it was some sort of restriction
You need a handheld test tachometer.
You'll have to excuse me, I have a habit of assuming others have the same test equipment as myself
No mate not only do I not have one, I have never seen one for this purpose. Cheers though
I have done that and its exactly the same as filling into the tank which is empty anyway so it wouldn't make a difference I would have thought.
When you turn it on first for a split second it'll run at normal speed but then slows right down.
Could it be anything to do with the pressure switch or the way its wired?
the snooper
getting older by the day
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- 21,063
- Location
- Hull UK
could be to do with the rewire and the centrifugal switch if that is what type of motor it is
brightspark
Member
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- yarm stockton on tees
give em it back and tell em to re test it with the capacitors/ and also ask which conections are for the feed i wouldnt even bother trying to do anything with it . u have paid for it so expect good service
Cheers dude
I'm in agreement with the above comments, you have paid for the motor to be put right and just by supplying you with 70uf caps instead of 125uf which is quite a bit of difference doesn't help, even though you could have helped them out there by leaving the caps on the motor, you don't have the test equip to check any of the windings,capacitors,amp draw etc, so take it back to them if the compressor is not that heavy take that with you remember you haven't identified whatever caused it to fry in the first instance.
Ya I think I'll just land it back in their laps and let them deal with it, thanks bud
