- Thread starter geoffsurf
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shenion
Tool Pack Rat
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I had a new compressor that had a hard time starting up, especially on an extension lead. Sometimes it would never get up to speed.
I increased the run capacitor value, that increased the startup torque (actually paralleled a smaller one.). The better option was to increase the length of the line from the compressor to the tank. That allows the pressure to build up slower on the first few revolutions and the motor can get up to speed.
The only other thing may be the bleeder valve is intermittent.
I increased the run capacitor value, that increased the startup torque (actually paralleled a smaller one.). The better option was to increase the length of the line from the compressor to the tank. That allows the pressure to build up slower on the first few revolutions and the motor can get up to speed.
The only other thing may be the bleeder valve is intermittent.
For those still following the fault, I took the capacitor off and took it back to the shop, they checked it and said it was fine.
I took the one way valve from the pump to the tank off a couple of times and that seems fine.
From using the compressor for the last week or two, I start with an empty tank, let it fill, then use it and it starts fine every time as long as I make it restart within about 20-30 mins.
However, if I leave the compressor for an hour or so, it always has trouble starting and stalls as before. Then I have to drain the tank to around 20 psi before it will restart.
Someone has suggested that it might just be not enough electricity coming into the garage. We are at one end of our village and the lights dim whenever the washing machine, tumbe dryer, kettle or electric shower start.
Shenion - not sure what the bleeder vlave is, not sure how to increase the run capacitor value. I could try finding some pipe and making it longer though.
I took the one way valve from the pump to the tank off a couple of times and that seems fine.
From using the compressor for the last week or two, I start with an empty tank, let it fill, then use it and it starts fine every time as long as I make it restart within about 20-30 mins.
However, if I leave the compressor for an hour or so, it always has trouble starting and stalls as before. Then I have to drain the tank to around 20 psi before it will restart.
Someone has suggested that it might just be not enough electricity coming into the garage. We are at one end of our village and the lights dim whenever the washing machine, tumbe dryer, kettle or electric shower start.
Shenion - not sure what the bleeder vlave is, not sure how to increase the run capacitor value. I could try finding some pipe and making it longer though.
brightspark
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if your thinking it is the electricity supply getting voltage drop buy a cheap test meter for a tenner. check the voltage back in the house should be around 230 240 volts run the compresor while testing see if it drasticaly drops on start up .the starting amps on a 2.2kw motor is about 50 amps under load hence the lights dipping
mr migwire
It's more fun with metal.
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sounds to me that air is leeching back slowly from the tank to the pump,
if it starts ok every time when using tools so long as you dont leave it over half an hour. but fails to start after an hour or so it would suggest that pressure is building up gradualy behind the valve and stopping the pump from buildng up enough speed.
try running the comp to full pressure then let it sit for an hour when it stalls switch it of at the mains, loosen the motor and try turning the pump by hand.
i would be willing to bet it will be solid because of the air leaking back through the one way valve.
i would replace the spring and washer in the valve.
brightspark
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if u think the one way valve is letting air through just fill the tank slacken the feed pipe from pump to it and test for leaks with some soapy water that will answer your questionsounds to me that air is leeching back slowly from the tank to the pump,
if it starts ok every time when using tools so long as you dont leave it over half an hour. but fails to start after an hour or so it would suggest that pressure is building up gradualy behind the valve and stopping the pump from buildng up enough speed.
try running the comp to full pressure then let it sit for an hour when it stalls switch it of at the mains, loosen the motor and try turning the pump by hand.
i would be willing to bet it will be solid because of the air leaking back through the one way valve.
i would replace the spring and washer in the valve.
the snooper
getting older by the day
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that doesnt sound very good the compressor will draw more power on start up then those listed above.
do you have any friends that would let you test it on their supply
Thanks for the replies everyone.
Brightspark - We put a voltage meter on the compressor terminals and then turned it on in the garage. The compressor had been sitting for a while so it stalled on start up. We tried it a few times and kept looking at the reading as it started. The voltage meter was a bit slow but once it had stalled it showed as low as 185-190 volts on one of the start ups we tried.
Mr Migwire & Brightspark - I don't think it is the one way valve leaking because when the compressor stalls on start up it always manages 2 or three revolutions before it then stalls. Also when the motor cuts out at 150psi the valve and black pipe that dump the pressure in the feed pipe, remain open. For the last couple of weeks I was convinced that it was the one way valve where the pump was opening the one way valve too early on the first couple of revolutions too early, with the effect that the pressure then blows back up to the pump and stalls it. Then my friend suggested the opposite, that the pump wasn't opening the one way valve after the first few revolutions.
the Snooper - There is a very old mineral cable under the ground between our house and garage where the compressor is. I don't really know anyone elses house I could test the compressor at, I have fitted a blue connector instead of a standard 13 amp plug and it is also very big and heavy to move around. It might come to that in the end though, finding someones house I can check it at.
The problem is so confusing, because if it was an electricity supply problem then why does it always restart when used quickly after initial start. And why never after it has been sitting. I was thinking of replacing the one way valve just in case but seems a waste of money.
Brightspark - We put a voltage meter on the compressor terminals and then turned it on in the garage. The compressor had been sitting for a while so it stalled on start up. We tried it a few times and kept looking at the reading as it started. The voltage meter was a bit slow but once it had stalled it showed as low as 185-190 volts on one of the start ups we tried.
Mr Migwire & Brightspark - I don't think it is the one way valve leaking because when the compressor stalls on start up it always manages 2 or three revolutions before it then stalls. Also when the motor cuts out at 150psi the valve and black pipe that dump the pressure in the feed pipe, remain open. For the last couple of weeks I was convinced that it was the one way valve where the pump was opening the one way valve too early on the first couple of revolutions too early, with the effect that the pressure then blows back up to the pump and stalls it. Then my friend suggested the opposite, that the pump wasn't opening the one way valve after the first few revolutions.
the Snooper - There is a very old mineral cable under the ground between our house and garage where the compressor is. I don't really know anyone elses house I could test the compressor at, I have fitted a blue connector instead of a standard 13 amp plug and it is also very big and heavy to move around. It might come to that in the end though, finding someones house I can check it at.
The problem is so confusing, because if it was an electricity supply problem then why does it always restart when used quickly after initial start. And why never after it has been sitting. I was thinking of replacing the one way valve just in case but seems a waste of money.
brightspark
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try checking the voltage back at the house distribution board if it drops to 180 volt thats no where near enough to pull the pump over and it will stall . id have a word with the electricity board and see what they can do as to the supply to house . another option is put the tumble drier and kettle on and another few items and check the voltage back at source with them conected see if theres any voltage drop it needs to be at least 220 volts min by law
the snooper
getting older by the day
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why does it always restart when used quickly after initial start.
like a car always starts up easier when warm oil is thinner and so on
and when empty less work to do
Brightspark - I will try and get my friend to help me check those things out and see what the situation is with the volts.
the Snooper - thanks.
eil - I changed the oil shortly after I got the compressor in August, and I put SIP piston compressor oil in. The oil still looks clean and to the right level.
the Snooper - thanks.
eil - I changed the oil shortly after I got the compressor in August, and I put SIP piston compressor oil in. The oil still looks clean and to the right level.
