+1 I do the same, every couple of weeks or so depending on heavy use, will open the external drain valve and just run it steady for a while until its good and hot...
Yes, obviously any specialist compressor oil is bound to be expensive but I was talking about your run of the mill standard piston compressors which the OP mentioned.
That is fair comment.
Just imagine the thermal stress the oil is subjected in a 1.8T VAG engine, it has to cool red hot turbocharger from a high speed motorway/autobahn drive and it has to withstand many cold start cycles while keeping whatever carbon deposits it dislodges in suspension until it gets filtered by the paper media of the oil filter...No way a sae20 can be better than a decent quality multigrade synthetic oil hence why i always used good oil even in high mileage engines, it protects a lot better ! Now about 10 or 15 years ago i sent my late father a clarke 50L direct drive compressor, which has been run almost continuously for spraying cars and which was filled from me once with castrol 5w40 oil...Its still working fine although it doesnt gets much use lately as its 110v and i have a larger, more powerful compressor as a replacements. A few years ago i was chassing a non start issue (traced it to a faulty unloader brass valve) and took the head off to see if piston its worn ! Absolutely no carbon deposits although the reed valves had a bit of overspray in them and no wear whatsoever. The piston bore was in spec, no play in either conrod/crank or piston and everything looked as it should ! My opinion is against manufacturers specs and go with better quality oils if possible, one time i asked a bmw tech for a strainer on a zf 6hp gearbox and oil to do a gearbox oil change, his computer said that gearbox is filled for life ! I said that gearbox life will be a lot longer if i changed the oil ! How he laughed of me...now they con you into changing oils every 30k or so in their gearboxes...Correct, and a car engine endures much higher shear forces than a compressor and much higher combustion chamber temperatures, the temperature guage only measures the oil after it has cooled in most engines and this is an average temperature.
Many now do, and this is becoming the norm in smaller compressors designed for DIY use.
My understanding is that the reason behind using “plain” oil in compressors is that the detergents/additives in modern oils keep particles in suspension to aid in getting them through to oil filters, which oil compressors don’t have. Plain oil allows any particles drop out of suspension and settle in the bottom which is possibly more suited to a simple splash lube system without filters.
If it came down to it I wouldn’t be that bothered by putting a modern oil in my compressor, it would probably work just fine. It just happens that plain oil is what’s recommended and it’s cheap so that’s what goes in.
Yeah I bought a tub of straight iso 32 for my lathe (denford) - so that’s what goes in the compressor too, and will be going in my mill gearbox. When I saw the sludge in the bottom of my lathe and mill gearboxes you can see why it may be better not to have stuff suspended in the oil, it was pretty manky!+1, beat me to it - also why you shouldn't use motor oil in lathes / mills etc which don't have filter cartridges (mine has pumped oil and a "magnetic filter" full of fine mesh which is fine enough for swarf, but not wear particles. and uses ISO5 which is damn thin - I use a 50:50 mix of ISO32 and paraffin).
Dave H. (the other one)