Compressor pump replacement.

[Aston66]

Hi. I've wrecked the pump on my Wolf Dakota 90 ltr compressor. Think it may have dropped a conn rod, or seized big ends.
It's locked solid , so I think I need to buy a new pump.
3hp 240 V, ac motor.
Can anyone recommend a replacement pump?
Will any pump rated for 3hp and 14cfm fit?
Does anyone have suitable pump they would like to sell?.
Thanks in advance.

 

[brightspark]

if you cant get a second hand one machinemart do them .presume its belt driven probs just a bit of pipework to alter and redrill the baseplate for fixings compressor pumps for sale - Google Search

 

[Aston66]

Yes it's a belt drive. Ive looked at Machinemart pumps and a few on ebay. They all look pretty similar. Machinemart one looks inexpensive, seen a few for a £100. on ebay but lack of details in the listing don't inspire confidence in their quality.
Thanks.

 

[Aston66]

Was wondering if there would be any benefit in fitting a V twin type pump instead of the parallel twin pump that is standard on this compressor?

 

[frank horton]

I'd be looking out for an old cast iron comp pump.....
even new ones are out there....depends on how hard u run it.....
the modern ally ones are short lived ......even if u reg change the oil....
speaking of which I use Synth car D eng oil in all of mine.....
I burnt out two biggish comp motors when sand blasting.....
so bought this Atlas Copco.....lucky I have 3 phase.....it runs 2-3 times a day and so much quieter than the rest....€350'ish from memeory.....

 

[piman]

Hello Aston66,

I've used the Machine Mart 3 Kw pump for some time, with no problems, they are very basic after all.

Alec

 

[Aston66]

So I have discovered why my pump has locked up. The conn rod on the right in this picture has slide off the crank and has probably twisted the rod. I can't see any damage to the bores, pistons so hope I can just replace the conn rod.
Does any one know how to get the crank out to release the rods?
Thanks.

 

[not done it yet]

Looking at it, I would think there is rather more damage than just the con rod. Looks like the crank is rough and likely unserviceable. I not a fan of these pumps - although better than the really high speed cheapies.

I expect any pump of suitable rating could be fitted, but I expect spares for this one are available. Whether it is an economical repair is another issue. I like my cast iron compound pump. Long lived and reliable.

 

[Edward Teach]

I think there may be differences in pump speeds, to suit electric motor speeds, 2 pole versus 4 pole motors, aluminium versus cast iron pumps etc.

Someone with more knowledge may put me right !!!

 

[Aston66]

I shall try to get the crank out today. I thought the conn rods would be two pieces with a shell, and can't quite see how to remove it. I guess I need to press the bearings into the case and slide it out somehow to get the conn odds off. Can't think how to remove the main bearings from the out side. It's a surprisingly simple bit of engineering, nothing to stop the big ends sliding along the crank like this. The crank looks OK where it is exposed, feels smooth, but somthing has ' picked up' somewhere to cause seizure in the first place, little end , or piston perhaps. Seems to have stopped very quickly. It actually blew a 13 amp fuse before it completely destroyed it's self, I think otherwise it would have broken the rod or little end. Con rods are available at a fraction of the cost of a new pump, which is half the cost of a brand new compressor of similar if not identical capacity.
I'm hoping crank is not to bad and may get away with conn rod and piston, and perhaps main bearings.
I don't use it often or for prolonged periods, so if I can get it pumping air till I finish my latest project, I don't mind Punting £50.00 or so out whilst I look for another compressor or a suitable pump. The reciver and fittings will come in useful as I would like an auxiliary tank to double up for bigger spray jobs.

 

[Edward Teach]

The receiver and fittings will come in useful as I would like an auxiliary tank to double up for bigger spray jobs.

You would be better off with two pumps and one tank !!
Two tanks take twice as long to fill !!

 

[Aston66]

I should also
add, that this is a direct result of met not checking the oil level. I bought it used some time ago. Since then I have only ever run it u to pressure a few times, and stored it. I was also running it on a slight incn line when it seized, and think the little oil that was in it ran to the lowest part of the sump. The oil level sight glass is stained with a line that looks very much like it is filled to the corekt level.

I shall try to get the crank out today. I thought the conn rods would be two pieces with a shell, and can't quite see how to remove it. I guess I need to press the bearings into the case and slide it out somehow to get the conn odds off. Can't think how to remove the main bearings from the out side. It's a surprisingly simple bit of engineering, nothing to stop the big ends sliding along the crank like this. The crank looks OK where it is exposed, feels smooth, but somthing has ' picked up' somewhere to cause seizure in the first place, little end , or piston perhaps. Seems to have stopped very quickly. It actually blew a 13 amp fuse before it completely destroyed it's self, I think otherwise it would have broken the rod or little end. Con rods are available at a fraction of the cost of a new pump, which is half the cost of a brand new compressor of similar if not identical capacity.
I'm hoping crank is not to bad and may get away with conn rod and piston, and perhaps main bearings.
I don't use it often or for prolonged periods, so if I can get it pumping air till I finish my latest project, I don't mind Punting £50.00 or so out whilst I look for another compressor or a suitable pump. The reciver and fittings will come in useful as I would like an auxiliary tank to double up for bigger spray jobs.

 

[not done it yet]

It looks like block off first, then able to remove pistons. I am guessing the rods are slid over the crank ends, after releasing the bearing liner halves by removal of the dipper? No need to remove the crank unless the rod is bent (quite likely).

 

[Turbo]

Someone on here did a clarke compressor overhaul with that style of pump & it was a nightmare to remove the crank.

If it was me I'd buy one of the cheap Chinese pumps on ebay & fit that. After all, it was what was fitted to it originally!

You could splash out & fit one of the Italian made ones but they are a lot more ££!

 

[Submariner1]

So I have discovered why my pump has locked up. The conn rod on the right in this picture has slide off the crank and has probably twisted the rod. I can't see any damage to the bores, pistons so hope I can just replace the conn rod.
Does any one know how to get the crank out to release the rods?
Thanks.

View attachment 279152

 

[Submariner1]

B28 (B2800B), 2-3Hp Lubricated Belt Driven Pump

B28 (B2800B), 2-3Hp Lubricated Belt Piston Compressor Driven Pump,Nuair, Abac, Sip

www.compressorshop.co.uk

 

[RWD3M]

^^^^^^ Blimey, someone else who can't sleep!

Night shift?

 

[Aston66]

B28 (B2800B), 2-3Hp Lubricated Belt Driven Pump

B28 (B2800B), 2-3Hp Lubricated Belt Piston Compressor Driven Pump,Nuair, Abac, Sip

www.compressorshop.co.uk

Hi Submariner. I ve seen a few of those pumps. I'm slightly concerned that it's not quite as good as the one Wolf originally fitted though. As far as I can see , the pump Wolf fitted is a B3800 series, Rated 3_4 horsepower. Do you think this pump B2800 series, will produce the same FAD as the B3800 series pump.
The B38 is available, but I can only find one supplier in the UK and it is nearly the price of one of their compressor units. Identical to the Wolf Dakota and a few others I have seen.
Much beter spec than Clarke or Sealey I have found out. The Pump is made for FIAC and I think it may be Italian, although is probably still manufactured in China.
Because I'm limited to 240v domestic supply, and a 2.2KW motor I want to get the most efficient pump I can.
I can source connecting rods in the UK, but still can't see how to release the crank shaft. Problem is I don't see how to release the main bearings from the crank case. I can't get any puller on them from the outside, and pressing them into the casing would still not allow me to slide the rods off.

 

[migmug]

The wolf is fitted with lets call it a copy of the B3800, the orignal B3800 was introduced by ABAC in the late 1990s and is currently produced by FNA
The B3800B and B2800B are pumps but fitted with aftercoolers so thay can run them faster.

No idea on the B38 name bit, they have always have been B3800, it is even on the labels on the side of the pump.

History bit.
The owners of ABAC sold part of the company along with the ABAC and Balma names, and designs over 4hp to Atlas Copco,the company then became NUAIR, NUAIR aquired a number of other compressor companies FINI, CHINOOK/SHAMAL, DARI and a few others to become FNA.

Atlas Copco have gone onto also buy FIAC.

Clarke use FNA pumps and some from china.
Sealey compressors are mainly FIAC (Atlas copco) not sure on the cast iron V and W pump ones

To fix the pump, barrel off, bearing caps off, crank bearing off each the end of the crank, they can be knocked out I have used a punch in the past, you put the punch on the inner race, then you can get the conrods off.

Reassembly is just the reverse but you might need new crank bearings, check the oil feed hole on the top of the big ends to see which way around the conrods need to go.

 

[Aston66]

Thanks for the History. I appreciate stuff like that.
Sorry, I abreviated when I mentioned B38, and meant B3800B.
So, do B2800B and B3800B have different displacements?
thanks.