considering a lathe but so unsure

[MattF]

Have to add, your things you want it for can be mostly accomplished on a smaller lathe with a bit of cunning and patience.

Indeed. I've always said the same. It can be a frustrating experience on occasion, but if a lathe is physically capable of working on the piece required, it's doable every time. You simply have to know and accept the limitations of a machine and work within and around them.

...If I'd listened to all the sensible peoples advice...

I can see the point from both sides on the general subject. When time is money, something being in working condition and being able to do the job straight away is by far the most important aspect. However, that's not what most of us are like in nature. Most of us on here are here because we have an inate urge to make things work, repair things, do the impossible etc. Hell, look at any of the lumps of rust and abuse which I'm usually restoring at any given moment in time, to get them back into good working order, as a prime example. Business is business, but nature is nature, and unless I need something there and then and utterly dependabe from the get go, I'll go for the herculean restore on an antique every time.

Plus, the other aspect which is commonly overlooked is available space. We all bitch about space, but some are far luckier than others on what space they have available. Sometimes large just isn't an option for some, whereas others could drop a house in their workshop and still have space spare.

 

[jackjosh]

Myfords are overpriced for what they are, the one thing going for them in your case is they do not take up much space. I have had british lathes and Chinese mini lathes and would never get a mini lathe again. On a purely technical recommendation, boxford, Colchester, raglan, atlas, Harrison, zyto amongst others would all do a good job for less money than a Myford. Before Myford owners jump down my throat, I am not saying they are bad machines just that they can cost more than a bigger more capable machine.

 

[Kent]

Tosh. I'd have the lathe over the pillar drill every time. Even now, I still only use the pillar drill if I must. Granted though, it does make drilling so much quicker, simpler and straight forward.

Gosh statement of the century there "it does make drilling much quicker, simpler and straight forwards" Well YEAH!

 

[ukracer]

Gosh statement of the century there "it does make drilling much quicker, simpler and straight forwards" Well YEAH!

I guess it would depend on what you are drilling....

 

[Kent]

I guess it would depend on what you are drilling....

I think you mean were you are drilling as in which plane

 

[ukracer]

I think you mean were you are drilling as in which plane

No I meant I guess it would mean what you were drilling in the first place...If drilling out a locking wheel bolt neither a drill press or lathe would be of much help.

 

[MattF]

Gosh statement of the century there "it does make drilling much quicker, simpler and straight forwards" Well YEAH!

I'm not one to disagree with a simple fact. The difference is that some see every moment of their time as an extra penny earned or lost, and some don't. Some prefer traditional techniques or simply their preferential technique. A case of each to their own.

 

[Pete.]

Hello Gaz,

you say "im wanting a pillar drill for drilling bars

If I understand correctly then a lathe won't do that job very well it needs to be a drill?

Alec

You can cross-drill round bars in a lathe using a crotch centre.

 

[mechman]

You can cross-drill round bars in a lathe using a crotch centre.

Whats a crotch centre.

 

[MattF]

You can cross-drill round bars in a lathe using a crotch centre.

Damn you Pete. I just searched a crotch centre and ended up finding yet another site which is going to be a drain on time looking at all of the other possible projects on there.

http://www.projectsinmetal.com/a-tailstock-crotch-center-for-the-lathe/

That's the link, so that I don't end up being the only one to curse at the dangled carrot.

 

[waddycall]

You can cross-drill round bars in a lathe using a crotch centre.

As long as they're short enough!

 

[Pete.]

As long as they're short enough!

The longer the better, more leverage to keep hold of.

 

[dobbslc]

The longer the better, more leverage to keep hold of.

Why don't you have a look at the Chester lathes website? They do combined lathe mil/drilll machines ( centurion & model b) they are good lathes with a mil / drill attached.
I've got the Centurion one that I find very handy for building my cafe racer bike project. It has a very large swing over the bed for brake disc's etc. It's not the same quality as a Myford granted, but they cost a LOT less and do a good job, the spares are available easily too.
You will have to sort the floor out in your shed though as its heavy but it does only takes up the same floor space as a normal lathe. Do watch the cost of all of the accessories though as they can add up!
Good luck.
Rob

 

[gaz1]

thankyou for all the replys

i just got an old pillar drill and dont mind doing some work on it fitting a motor onto it and the 5 pulley wheel set with the belt

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Starterit...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item3cf0641480

for what i see in viewing them they are a nice price as well but im looking for a 1.5kv motor in 240 volts

the other one has been pulled as well but at least gives me an idea what im looking for now with thanks i am still watching for one though

 

[MrFluffy]

1.5kw aka 2hp in a pillar drill. You better get used to solidly bolting your vice and workpiece to the table...

 

[stormin]

I think 1.5kw or 2hp is way too big for that drill. It would probably have originally had a 1/3 to 1/2 hp motor.
The belt and pulley sizes will probably limit what power you can actually get to the spindle though.
If it's a fixed chuck or at best a morse 2 taper your not going to be drilling anything large than about 16mm diameter anyway.

 

[MrFluffy]

I agree, a genuine half a hp (real horsepower, not chinese sized play ones on ebay) is more than enough for a sensitive (pillar) drill. If I wanted to drill a hole with 2hp, it gets fixtured onto the milling machine with mutiple clamps on the workpiece, and my hands well out of the zone if anything goes wrong (and it has, in spectacular exploding drill bit fashion in the past, which is why I don't want to be holding it). Thats what I meant by the comment that you had better get good at bolting things down to drill them, which negates the advantages of a sensitive drill, in that you can feel what the bit is doing, and its quick and easy to use.
You can put 2hp through a veebelt though, I just rebuilt the head of one of my milling machines with a 2hp capable veebelt. I forget the section designation of the series but its only slightly thicker looking in appearance to what you would call a "normal" veebelt.
Even 0.5hp is enough to get in trouble if you use it wrong though. People loose fingers learning that one and trying to hold sheet metal or thin sections without a vice when they snag. Sorry to bang on, but its best to learn from others bad experiences than creating your own.

 

[Mr shiney]

I held out for a Myford. Got a aSuper 7 last year and love it. Does everything I want it for. I have a pillar drill as well. That was my first acquisition years ago and I would not be without it. It's a 1981 Clarke and runs lovely and true.

I had a Chinese lathe before the Myford and to be fair it was a cracking bit of kit. I sold it onto a member on here and I think he is still going strong with it.

I am pretty well equipped now in the man cave for drilling turning and milling.

 

[gaz1]

ive been watching ebay for a while and wish i had got one of the early ones instead of now

as damn things go for a nice price often

so got a myford ml4 to learn upon

 

[Bill Edwards]

I doubt you'll regret it. Lathes are such fantastic piece of equipment.