That's terrific, thanks. Problem is I think I'm too new to send PMs. I only get Follow/Ignore/Find, not Follow/Ignore/Start Conversation/Find. I'll check my profile settings.I’ve found the manual and taken photos of all the pages. If you pm me your email I should be able to set up a shared photo album. I guess you know the whole burner box is fitted as one piece? It looks like you remove the baffle assembly, the front sealing angle and the oil pipe and cables and it should slide out as one unit.
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I will check out the specs of high temp JB weld - that would be a great short term solution. Thankswith out knowing the ins and outs of how it works would some high temp JB weld do as a temporary repair until better weather
Yes. I still want to get the burner out. Could you try PM to me, that I can reply to? It seems I can't start a conversation. ThanksAs long as the burner is vapourising it’s unlikely to leak oil through that crack.if it stops vaporising it will leak oil and stop the oil control valve from tripping out. Worst case is a tank full of oil in the kitchen. If you do decide to use it keep an eye on it and turn it off at night or when you go out etc
Sorry, ignore that, I see you've already started oneYes. I still want to get the burner out. Could you try PM to me, that I can reply to? It seems I can't start a conversation. Thanks
Thanks for finding these baffles - I've ordered them. Mine are totally misshapen. I am getting hopeful.These guys have the rings - maybe they can get the pot. If not an 8” pot with the same dimensions from the mounting flange to the bottom would probably be fine.
It’s an 8” Awena pot
Yes. I'm looking for short term fix for winter, then a better solution with new burner which I will attempt in summer. It is the principal heating, but I also have a wood stove, two small electric panel heaters and an immersion for hot water, so I can survive. When these big lumps of metal are off though, you really miss them.If it's your principal heating, I'd live with it 'till it warms up.
Hey, that’s great news! Make sure you check it on low fire too as it’s likely to be hotter. Give me a shout if you want to borrow the test gear.Update: I drilled out the crack in the pot to about 3mm width and applied JBWeld Extreme Heat. That product claims it can tolerate continuous heat to 568C. I let it cure for 24hrs. I bought a thermocouple from RS Components and stuck it to the pot with PTFE thermocouple pads, leading the cable along the fuel supply pipe and through the somewhat aged sealing compound. Then I checked over the whole Rayburn referring to the installation manual kindly supplied by waddycall, which resulted in a couple of changes. And fired it up! (I also used a piece of stove glass over the hot plate plug to observe the burner flame.) I must admit I was a little apprehensive as I watched the temperature reading for the pot climb steadily. However, it peaked at 285C on high fire. This is perhaps lower than I thought it might reach, but I believe a significant factor is the cool airflow around the pot supplied by the fan on high fire, and the chimney draught on low fire.
So on the face of it, the JBWeld should be able to withstand the heat (particularly because it's not cycling hot to cold and back).
It's been on for 3 days now. I will turn it off in a couple more days' time and inspect the repair. But for now, I'm warm! Thanks for your advice.
Thanks waddycall. The temperature variation from low to high and back is quite interesting - basically similar during high and low at about 265-270C, but the peak occurs just after switching from high to low. When the fan switches off the temperature increases to around 285C for 5 minutes until it settles back down to 265-270C.Hey, that’s great news! Make sure you check it on low fire too as it’s likely to be hotter. Give me a shout if you want to borrow the test gear.