Cutting 1/2" BSP Threads

[RWD3M]

Over-bracketing will not hurt, just potentially cost you money. 1200 spacing is probably OK but if it turns out not to be, how much will the postage be for additional brackets? Anywhere you will be pulling on it (outlets), an additional bracket will not go amiss.

The brackets set the stand off from the wall so when going between two fixed walls, you bracket dummy pieces of pipe with elbows on the two return elevations and then measure your actual between face length. What I am saying, I guess, is not to work solely off drawing dimensions but measure the last piece before you cut it. It is better to cut it longer as you can trim 5mm off with a grinder and then re-engage the dies on the thread and lengthen the thread than it is to be short as then you have to throw the piece away or use it elsewhere.

You might know this one way or the other, but I think you need a flexible connection between compressor and line so vibration is not transferred and there is no stress leading to pipe failure.

You can check the length of the pipe when it comes (I think it is 3.6m) so you could slightly revise your dimensions on the long wall to suit full lengths as that saves on threading.

The pipe lengths are 3.25m unfortunately so I know I have a couple of straight couplings to include.

I already have the brackets I ordered plenty JIC! Likewise with elbows and tees, as you say for a couple of quid...

I know I need a flexi, not sure yet exactly how I'll execute that but will ensure I have one.

Fully understand what you are saying regarding returns

Thanks!

 

[RWD3M]

A quick question regarding the clamps. The ones I have are quite loose on the pipe.



Is this normal or should I be packing them in some way?

 

[Mr Fixer]

A quick question regarding the clamps. The ones I have are quite loose on the pipe.

View attachment 240787

Is this normal or should I be packing them in some way?

It’s normal, I wouldn’t worry about it too much.

 

[Agroshield]

Maybe just put some rubber (bike inner tube slipped on before fitting installed) inside the ones adjacent the outlets if only to stop the rattle annoying you every time you connect something.

 

[Mikes]

Hi Mike,

The red marks are indeed proposed clamps. I think I have them at 600 spacing (that lines up with the timbers in the walls!). What do you reccommend?

On the outlet Tee's do you mean the outlets to the regulators? If so, good tip, I like that also from a practical perspective. I won't have to bend down so far to connect a hose!

Each of the regulators has a manual drain and the filter adjacent to the compressor has an automatic one. I can incorporate a fall towards the end of the run, say 100mm over the full length (circa 15m)? which will have a manual drain valve at the end.

I've revised my drawings accordingly. Does this look better or have I missed something?

I haven't got the tooling yet but I'll be looking around fairly soon. I should only have maybe half a dozen ends to thread and am getting lots of good advice here.

Cheers,

Richard.

Richard,
Drawing looks fine. Recommended maximum pipe support centres for 1/2" steel pipe is 1.8 m and for 3/4" is 2.4 m so you will have more than enough. Pipe clips don't need anything in them as you will soon find over a length that the lot all tightens-up and doesn't rattle. All take-offs are best pointing upward as it encourages moisture to drop out and will minimise the amount of water formed in the outlet regulators. Still good practice to drain them regularly.
If you have a suitable source, just a suitably rated length of braided rubber hose with BSP fittings will do for your vibration isolation between the compressor and the fixed pipework.
A good hose company should be able to knock this up for you if you explain the maximum pressures that will be experienced.

Mike.

 

[RWD3M]

Guys,

I am so appreciative of all this advice.

I think I'm now equipped at least from a knowwledge (this thread!) point of view. I still have to get the thread cutting kit but I have a couple of options.

So thanks again, pics will no doubt follow once I get started!

Richard.

 

[Shox Dr]

Richard,
Drawing looks fine. Recommended maximum pipe support centres for 1/2" steel pipe is 1.8 m and for 3/4" is 2.4 m so you will have more than enough. Pipe clips don't need anything in them as you will soon find over a length that the lot all tightens-up and doesn't rattle. All take-offs are best pointing upward as it encourages moisture to drop out and will minimise the amount of water formed in the outlet regulators. Still good practice to drain them regularly.
If you have a suitable source, just a suitably rated length of braided rubber hose with BSP fittings will do for your vibration isolation between the compressor and the fixed pipework.
A good hose company should be able to knock this up for you if you explain the maximum pressures that will be experienced.

Mike.

the Copper pipe outlet from my clarke se19 compressor To the tank failed about 10yrs ago, its had a 1/2"bsp flexi tap connector on it ever since

 

[KemppiFrog]

I had this problem about 40 yrs ago. Frustrated by no-show plumbers, I bought a die box of Spanish origen. 3/8"to 2" with three sets of dies. Ace bit of cheap kit and paid for itself inside a week. The action allowed one to cut threads in one or several goes, depending on size, as the dies were cammed in on an adjustable lever.
Not used it in years, but still in the back of the shed.

Off field, but for water in the house, I now use the Aquatherm system. Welded plastic pipe. Slightly more bulky than copper, but way cheaper and withstands frost. One had to buy the welding tool, but again, paid for itself very quickly. eg: Did the kitchen and two bath rooms in a morning.. Recommended.

 

[RWD3M]

I had this problem about 40 yrs ago. Frustrated by no-show plumbers, I bought a die box of Spanish origen. 3/8"to 2" with three sets of dies. Ace bit of cheap kit and paid for itself inside a week. The action allowed one to cut threads in one or several goes, depending on size, as the dies were cammed in on an adjustable lever.
Not used it in years, but still in the back of the shed.

Off field, but for water in the house, I now use the Aquatherm system. Welded plastic pipe. Slightly more bulky than copper, but way cheaper and withstands frost. One had to buy the welding tool, but again, paid for itself very quickly. eg: Did the kitchen and two bath rooms in a morning.. Recommended.

Coincidently, I've been toying with doing much the same. I can rent some kit for about £40 odd a day but Machine Mart do a cheap set for about the same. It's only got to cut half a dozen or so threads so this is probably the route I'll take. Assuming I don'y get a whole lot of advice to the contrary!

 

[Shox Dr]

For the amount you are going to cut, a hand die works just as well at a fraction of the cost.

 

[RWD3M]

For the amount you are going to cut, a hand die works just as well at a fraction of the cost.

Hi Shox Dr,

This is the one I was looking at:

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht392-6-piece-pipe-threading-kit/

Should do the job shouldn't it?

 

[Shox Dr]

Hi Shox Dr,

This is the one I was looking at:

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht392-6-piece-pipe-threading-kit/

Should do the job shouldn't it?

it will, you only need 1/2". Id have a snoop on fb, theres bound to be someone selling a die stock for 2quid. You’ll never use it again

 

[RWD3M]

it will, you only need 1/2". Id have a snoop on fb, theres bound to be someone selling a die stock for 2quid. You’ll never use it again

Good idea, I'll ask swmbo ( I don't do FB!)

 

[brightspark]

here 7 quid https://www.tracytools.com/taps-and-dies/BSP-taps-dies/1-2-x-14-tpi-bsp

 

[Farside]

Hi Shox Dr,

This is the one I was looking at:

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht392-6-piece-pipe-threading-kit/

Should do the job shouldn't it?

I bought one nearly identical to that from Lidl, about 20 years ago. I think it was about 20 quid.
Never used it in anger, but one of these days...
Anyway, if they were 20 quid 20 years ago, there will be thousands of them sold at the time, all gathering dust. Have a look on ebay.

 

[Turbo]

Hi Shox Dr,

This is the one I was looking at:

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht392-6-piece-pipe-threading-kit/

Should do the job shouldn't it?

I also bought a similar set from Lidl - don't waste your money. The dies will maybe cut 1 or 2 good threaded pipes but the cutters will chip easily & not thread nicely afterwards. I tried to use my 1/2" die recently & it took several attempts to get it to cut a usable thread, it kept tearing off the threads instead of cutting them!

Something I don't thing has been mentioned - your main pipe should have a slight fall in it from the compressor to a drain at the end point of your pipework. This is so that any water in it gets pushed along the main pipe.

To connect the compressor to the pipework I would suggest a length of 3/4" hydraulic hose with 1/2" bsp fem fittings swaged on. On the end of your main line fit a 1/2" socket & a 1/2" x 1/2" hydraulic nipple. On your compressor tank remove the bung in the end (it may need heating, they're loctited in!) and fit the correct fitting to give you a 1/2" hyd male coming out. Join the tank & compressor with the hyd hose.

I would strongly recommend you use Loctite 577 to seal your joints. The first time I installed my air pipeline I used plumbers tape & had leaks everywhere! I redid all the joints with loctite & no leaks, haven't used tape since for any joints. You can get it on ebay for around £20 a tube.

 

[RWD3M]

I also bought a similar set from Lidl - don't waste your money. The dies will maybe cut 1 or 2 good threaded pipes but the cutters will chip easily & not thread nicely afterwards. I tried to use my 1/2" die recently & it took several attempts to get it to cut a usable thread, it kept tearing off the threads instead of cutting them!

Roger that. If it does happens it'll go straight back to Machine Mart for replacement! I'll keep an eye on it.

Something I don't thing has been mentioned - your main pipe should have a slight fall in it from the compressor to a drain at the end point of your pipework. This is so that any water in it gets pushed along the main pipe.

Got that thanks.

To connect the compressor to the pipework I would suggest a length of 3/4" hydraulic hose with 1/2" bsp fem fittings swaged on. On the end of your main line fit a 1/2" socket & a 1/2" x 1/2" hydraulic nipple. On your compressor tank remove the bung in the end (it may need heating, they're loctited in!) and fit the correct fitting to give you a 1/2" hyd male coming out. Join the tank & compressor with the hyd hose.

I've been looking at my options here so thanks for the tip.

I would strongly recommend you use Loctite 577 to seal your joints. The first time I installed my air pipeline I used plumbers tape & had leaks everywhere! I redid all the joints with loctite & no leaks, haven't used tape since for any joints. You can get it on ebay for around £20 a tube.

I've bought a roll of Loctite 55 (pipe sealing cord) that was reccommended so I'll see how it goes. My plan is to install in stages, leak checking as I go so if it fails to perform I'll know fairly quickly.

Cheers Turbo.

 

[RWD3M]

It's taken me a couple of days but I have now completed the install of the compressed air manifold in my shed!

The thread cutter held up well and cut all 6 threads I needed. I used a slightly belt and braces approach on the thread sealing using the Loctite 55 string stuff (oversized dental floss!) and a couple of wraps of PTFE tape over the top of the string and, no leaks! Believe me, no one more surprised than I was!

I installed in 3 sections leak checking as I went which probably helped.

The drop from one end isn't as obvious as I thought it might be but it's about 50mm over the 14 metres or so.

What was that? pictures? Oh alright then!







Again, many thanks to all of those that offered advice on this, I'm most appreciative.

Hope everyone is well.

Richard.

 

[KemppiFrog]

Cripes! Do you do brain surgery in that place? It is far too clean & tidy to actually work on real stuff...I have to use a shovel to find my kit on most days. And, NO, no pixs of my hovel of a workshop..

 

[RWD3M]

Cripes! Do you do brain surgery in that place? It is far too clean & tidy to actually work on real stuff...I have to use a shovel to find my kit on most days. And, NO, no pixs of my hovel of a workshop..

Ha ha! I have spent most of the afternoon tidying up, it looked like a tip this morning!

To be fair, I do like a tidy workshop, but that is currently tidier than it would normally be.