Cutting stainless

[AnthonyExmouth]

Would this be a good option? https://www.multitoolproducts.com/product-page/2-x-36-belt-grinder-disc-attachment

 

[Redeye]

What would be my best option for cutting nice curves in 2-15mm 316 stainless? I make up parts for my boat at had to knock up a new pintle and gudgeon at the weekend. I did the best I could to get a semi circle cut but it's really rubbish. It'll work but would have been nice to get a better radius on it.

Hello,
I use a stainless cutting disc on a grinder, works well
Regards

 

[Agroshield]

Would this be a good option?

What will make or break that is the machine on which it is mounted. You are not going to put it on a 150W Silverline grinder and have success.

Look at the horsepower (watts) used on a typical 2 x 72 belt grinder. You would need a grinder of equivalent power.

In addition, the rpm at which it spins is important - grinding works better at high surface speeds.

 

[bricol]

I would have though some decent 40 grit flap wheels and a good eye would get you the shape you wanted, followed by a selection of finer grit flap wheels to get the finish you require. Bolt two together if you want them to look similar.

 

[KemppiFrog]

Hi, I make boat fittings occasionaly (mine and friends) but usually not such heavy sections.
Plasma for curves, SS cutting discs for straight; Plus lots of flap discs or normal grinding discs.
As above, dedicated discs, so as to avoid contamination from plain steel.
Mostly up to 6mm sheet, but occasionally 8 or 10mm. Like for the self steering gear on a big ketch that was off to the Azores.

 

[iNf]

Would this be a good option? https://www.multitoolproducts.com/product-page/2-x-36-belt-grinder-disc-attachment

As stated you would be better off with a belt sander/linisher (or angle grinder.) If you want it portable a hand held belt sander clamped in something like a workmate would do. Much easier and safer if you can rig up a fence to rest the workpiece on, especially for thinner stuff as the belts move at a fair old speed.

 

[AnthonyExmouth]

As stated you would be better off with a belt sander/linisher (or angle grinder.) If you want it portable a hand held belt sander clamped in something like a workmate would do. Much easier and safer if you can rig up a fence to rest the workpiece on, especially for thinner stuff as the belts move at a fair old speed.

I don't need it portable. My workshop is only 5 mins from the beach so just pop back and do jobs, unless it's just a bit of stick welding on larger pieces.

 

[AnthonyExmouth]

I would have though some decent 40 grit flap wheels and a good eye would get you the shape you wanted, followed by a selection of finer grit flap wheels to get the finish you require. Bolt two together if you want them to look similar.

finish isn't so important. Just wanted to try and get a less janky arc on the curve. It's not a prize yacht, just a couple of fishing boats I own and friends who need stuff and just need something that works and doesn't have to look pretty. But just wanted to make it look semi-respectable and not like a child cut it out. lol

 

[AnthonyExmouth]

What will make or break that is the machine on which it is mounted. You are not going to put it on a 150W Silverline grinder and have success.

Look at the horsepower (watts) used on a typical 2 x 72 belt grinder. You would need a grinder of equivalent power.

In addition, the rpm at which it spins is important - grinding works better at high surface speeds.

got a couple of bench grinders a 400w and 500w. I like the size of that attachment. Not too big for my already cramped workshop

 

[AnthonyExmouth]

Hello,
I use a stainless cutting disc on a grinder, works well
Regards

that's what I used but no good for nice curves.

 

[Agroshield]

...got a couple of bench grinders a 400w and 500w.

Add them together (twin engine belt grinder) and you will be in the right field.

 

[Hitch]

If its just short bits like those angles, just use a cutting disc and sanding pad.
Quality abrasives will make this much easier than cheap ones.
By the time you've plasma cut and ground back, you maybas well have cut it and sanded.

Good marking out and skills using a grinder will help loads.

 

[Kram]

Plasma saves time particually with concave curves but wont let you do anything that couldnt already be done with just a grinder, cutting discs and flap discs. Its just quicker not having to go in a straight line.
I'd recommend a die grinder if there are any concave curves.
Example of some freehand plasma and tidying up with flap disc and die grinder.

I dont believe a belt sander has much advantage over a flap disc, likely quicker, but then it takes a lot more space. With limited space, I wouldnt want one.

 

[Erie Fred]

Plus.....^^^^^ you have an excuse to buy another tool.....

 

[AnthonyExmouth]

Plasma saves time particually with concave curves but wont let you do anything that couldnt already be done with just a grinder, cutting discs and flap discs. Its just quicker not having to go in a straight line.
I'd recommend a die grinder if there are any concave curves.
Example of some freehand plasma and tidying up with flap disc and die grinder.
View attachment 477027

View attachment 477028

I dont believe a belt sander has much advantage over a flap disc, likely quicker, but then it takes a lot more space. With limited space, I wouldnt want one.

i think my issue here was the 16mm thickness more than anything. Hard to keep even with the flap disc. A flat table with the belt would have been nice. I think if I go for a belt grinder I'll get one with the ability to notch tubes, that would be really handy for making little gantries and cat catchers.

 

[Kram]

The issue may be more if your doing it by eye? rather than marking out the profile to cut to with permenent marker or similar to follow. Rechecking the profile often and marking again if it burns off.

That will be the difference between a nice looking part and one that looks like a child has been at it.

 

[Erie Fred]

The issue may be more if your doing it by eye? rather than marking out the profile to cut to with permenent marker or similar to follow. Rechecking the profile often and marking again if it burns off.

That will be the difference between a nice looking part and one that looks like a child has been at it.

Yes ^^^ and a clip on stand off will help as well for squareness.