cylinder liner puller

[Vexis]

I have an old MC Cormick Nash tractor 1959. In need of re,sleeveing the cylinders with new liners .
Im looking for inspiration as to what a puller ,tool looks like,works and how I can make one .
Any body any experience of such and can give me any ideas ?
I have the new liners, ready but don't want to get the to pick up and distort when being pressed back in
thanks

 

[rtbcomp]

The tool used to remove the dry liners from my Perkins 4203 consisted of a stepped disc - the smaller dia. was a snug fit in the bottom of the bore, the larger dia. was a clearance fit in the parent bore.

There was a threaded hole in a centre boss.

Next there was a tube, open at the bottom, the internal diameter was just larger than the dia. of the lip at the top of the liner and the length of the tube would accommodate the height of the liner. The top of the tube was solid with a hole in the centre.

A length of threaded bar went through the hole (clearance fit) in the top of the tube and screwed into the hole in the bottom plate's centre boss.

There was a collar fixed to the threaded bar just above the top plate, and a thrust washer between the collar and the plate at the top of the tube.

An electric motor turned the screw which jacked the liner up into the tube - turn it by hand until the liner has started to move.

OR

Take a small sharp chisel and drift the lip of the liner away from the parent bore at two diametrically opposing points. Take a BRASS rod, slightly pointed at one end, and drift it down between the liner and parent bore. Use larger drifts if necessary to distort the liner into a figure of 8 shape and drift it up from the bottom.

IIRC the new liners were smeared with a sealant and pressed in by hand, but I'm not 100% sure of that, but I did manage to replace a couple myself using the 2nd method above. Make sure the groove at the top of the parent bore is perfectly clean before fitting the new liner.

If you have wet liners - I haven't a clue how to shift them!

 

[zzr1200]

As rtbcomp has stated above regarding the puller, a wet liner generally comes out easier than a dry liner and are usually a slip fit refit, wet liner height is controlled by the liner height ridge and spacer shims which set the liner height.

Dry liners are either slip fit pre-sized, hone the block and just slip in the liners, some dry liners are also a press fitted and then machined to bore size...

Liner puller...

 

[Tengtooltom]

I presume its one of either B250, B275, B414 range...
They are all Wet Liner engines, either BD 144 or BD 154
What we used, as IH Main Dealers, from well before 59 was a piece of 10mm or 12mm ( probably 1/2 inch at the time) flat plate on edge. This needs to be cut to exact length of the outside Diameter of the lower end of the liner and chamfered off to allow for the radius of the liner. Then cut, from the top, at each end, a step to allow the plate up slightly into the inside of the liner, to locate the plate centrally. Hole in middle of plate, maybe 16mm. Length of at least 20mm fine thread with two pieces of flat welded on to make a fork to fit over the lower plate . Bolt n nut across.
Piece of thick wall tube, at least 150mm long, with larger I/D than the outside of the top outer of liner. Heavy flat plate to fit across top of tube with hole to suit the 20mm rod.
Cover the Crank Journal with a big chunk of oily rags to protect it.
Two people required, one above, one below.
Person below to hold plate in place in liner, while person above sets everything up.
Keep a good eye below while tightening above.
Be careful - they WILL be rusted in place, and WILL be tight. They will probably let go with a bang, and you will get covered with rusty muck. Or the cast liner may break, with a big piece coming away at one side. Then the trouble begins..... Been there, T shirt long gone
Hope that helps.
PM me if you need torques, tappet settings or any other info

As zzR1200 shows above

 

[wristpin]

Wet liners will usually have an 0 ring or seal at the bottom and a number of shims to achieve the required protrusion above the block face so that fitting and torquing down the head compresses the O ring or seal. Hence the reason that when working on a wet liner engine with the head removed it is in advisable to rotate the crank unless the liners are clamped - usually with clamps held in place by the head bolts or studs.
As has been said it is usual practice to bore or hone dry liners to final size after fitting.

 

[Tengtooltom]

No shims on these

 

[Wedg1e]

Wet liners will usually have an 0 ring or seal at the bottom and a number of shims to achieve the required protrusion above the block face so that fitting and torquing down the head compresses the O ring or seal. Hence the reason that when working on a wet liner engine with the head removed it is in advisable to rotate the crank unless the liners are clamped - usually with clamps held in place by the head bolts or studs.

Aye, they said that about the Lotus 912 engine in my Esprit but those liners were going nowhere... probably corroded in!

 

[Bill Edwards]

Wet liners should be a doddle to remove, though due to the age of the machine yours may be a little rusty. I've made a puller before - if you don't have a suitable disk a piece of good angle iron works just fine, weld on a nut in the middle for the threaded rod and round the ends of the angle off so it curves to match the liner and clear the block.

People who don't have the tool tend to get by just fine with a block of wood and a hammer, it's dry liners where the struggles are.as they can be very, very tight!

As to installing new ones, lubricate the seals with antifreeze and insert by hand until they won't go any further, then place a piece of wood over the top and tap with a hammer, they should be quite easy to go in and won't distort.

 

[ronan]

Would a bit of heat on the cylinder block help at all ?

 

[graffian]

As rtbcomp has stated above regarding the puller, a wet liner generally comes out easier than a dry liner and are usually a slip fit refit, wet liner height is controlled by the liner height ridge and spacer shims which set the liner height.

Dry liners are either slip fit pre-sized, hone the block and just slip in the liners, some dry liners are also a press fitted and then machined to bore size...

Liner puller...View attachment 67729

I have a wolf drill that was used for driving a press/puller like that.
I didn't take the press for some reason; my mate was chucking it all in a skip.

 

[Bill Edwards]

Would a bit of heat on the cylinder block help at all ?

Doubtful, I don't think it would expand all that much, and when it comes to cast iron it's better not to use heat. If it isn't heated and cooled evenly it's prone to cracking.

 

[zzr1200]

I didn't take the press for some reason; my mate was chucking it all in a skip.

You mad fool....

 

[Vexis]

Yes their wet liners alright .just been speaking to a agri mechanic who bought another 275 of me for restoration and he said ,the liner s were replaced as was everything else but it was a struggle they were rusted in and very tight .after a lot of scratching and cursing he said it Released.will have to ask him if he still has the pullers handy,
A job I'm not looking forward to really but hey ho it's only metal haha

 

[stormin]

Running a few beads of weld down the insides of the liners then letting them cool shrinks the liner slightly and aids removal.

 

[rtbcomp]

^^ wouldn't like to try that with a thin dry liner - might blow through and weld it to the block.

 

[Bsmith]

Old flat screwdriver blade. Grind corners off one side so it dosn't damage engine block. Use screwdriver blade as a chisel with hammer and chip a track whole way down old liners. Liners will come out easily. If there should be slight marks to block after chipping old liner, fill marks with loctite stud lock immediately prior to inserting new liners.

I did a Perkins 4-203 this way, same as rbtcomp's for my mark 2 MF65.

 

[Vexis]

How's this for an idea ? Plasma the liner on low settings...
Would this cut thro and affect the cylinder at all ? Or too risky ?
Starting this in the ne t few weeks and still not sure which way to go

 

[premmington]

Running a few beads of weld down the insides of the liners then letting them cool shrinks the liner slightly and aids removal.

I have done this without any problems.

 

[Vexis]

Were you using stick or mig welds? Or gas?

 

[Wendelspanswick]

How's this for an idea ? Plasma the liner on low settings...
Would this cut thro and affect the cylinder at all ? Or too risky ?
Starting this in the ne t few weeks and still not sure which way to go

Sounds like a bad idea, you could end up cutting through the galleries.
I pulled the liners on a Nuffield 10/60 using a length of M20 studding, a piece of flat bar to catch the bottom of the liner, a piece of pipe larger than the liner, another piece of flat bar to span the top of the pipe and some M20 nuts.
Just like ZZR1200's drawing above.