cylinder liner puller

[Bill Edwards]

I wouldn't go near it with plasma, one bad move and you'll have serious damage.
Just go under the engine and use a hammer and block of wood to hit them upwards, make a slide hammer to allow that to be done from the top, or make a puller where you tighten a nut. They shouldn't be that hard to remove, I think you're probably worrying about this too much and thinking of rather extreme approaches.

 

[zzr1200]

When I was involved with in-chassis rebuilding of Volvo Commercial Vehicle Engines, I had 4 pusher plates turned up for the different size wet liners. I used to fit the pusher plate (with a cut out to miss the oil sprayer) into the base of the liner and use a porta power to push against the floor to remove the liner, dead simple and effective.

The Nuffield might have enough weight to pop the liners seal, it generally doesn't take a lot of force to move a wet liner...

 

[premmington]

Were you using stick or mig welds? Or gas?

I have removed thousands of lorry liners!

1. We use a porta power pack and plates a big guide tube at the top with flat plate packed under it.
2. I have never tried it with threaded rod!
3. I have done it on a huge floor press before!
4. I have loosened them up with 316LP 1.6mm MMA rods at about 25amps DC, put down runs in a pattern designed to "shrink metal"
5. Three straight runs at 120 degrees from each other from top to bottom, layed in fast! Started and finished about 20mm from the bottom and top of the liner!

Yes... If you go at the job with a 2.5 6013 at 70amps you are taking a risk. But if you use a low amp easy strike rod and "drag and run it fast" and avoid the edges of the liner. You will not have any problems!

You have the mass of the block to absorb the heat away to stop burn thru!

The point is... You are adding some heat and metal shrinkage not running a perfect visual weld bead!

Another process which is better with MMA (you try getting a mig torch down a cylinder liner from both ends!)

 

[Bill Edwards]

5. Three straight runs at 120 degrees from each other from top to bottom, layed in fast! Started and finished about 20mm from the bottom and top of the liner!

Interesting you say this, I'd have thought that welding round the circumference would be better as done on bearings, but in a couple of places (i.e top and bottom).

Presumably you've tried both in your years, and have found welding down the length to be better?

 

[premmington]

Interesting you say this, I'd have thought that welding round the circumference would be better as done on bearings, but in a couple of places (i.e top and bottom).

Presumably you've tried both in your years, and have found welding down the length to be better?

Yep I have tried welding round the circumference.

These liners are not as tight as you think they are going to be!

They stick bottom and top and distort being pushed out.

I have had one shear in two bits when welded found the circumference (like I would normally do a bearing)


Old man I was apprentice to, insisted they were welded up and down not round and round!