Deciding on an air hammer for automotive use.

[conor1n]

Good evening all,

I have been doing some work on suspension again and this Welzh Werkzeug air hammer has gotten me out of dodge a number of times (borrowed) - so I have decided to buy an air hammer to have on hand.

That unit is perfect.. but it's kind of expensive, and I think the price is mainly down to the attachments that it comes with, which I never use. I use a set of drift pin attachments and hammer heads etc.

So... I have been looking at some other units from Chicago Pneumatic.

The problem: Is that the Welzh unit is the only one I have used and it's fine - but the product listing doesn't explain how many joules of energy it puts out and if it is short or long strokes..which I believe are important factors.

I am concerned because I have no benchmark figures, and I'm afraid of getting something that is either underpowered or overpowered - with both being bad.

That said, I have narrowed down my search to this CP 7165 kit - it is 11 Joules, whereas most others are below 10. But this one has 4 power settings, which means a it's nice and powerful, but I can lower the power if needed. It also is only 240mm long, versus the WW one which I think I read somewhere is 275mm.

What do people think of this for automotive work? My two main applications right now would be bushes/suspension/stuck bolts etc and also cutting away seam sealer from body panels.

P.S. The guy who lent me his WW one said it's one of those tools where you need to pay for the quality because there is so much energy going through it...the cheaper ones just don't last.

What do the experts (you guys!) think?

Thank you

 

[MetalMonkey]

I have a CP7110 with a kit which puts out 7.2 joules, wasn't that expensive and has done everything i've needed to so far.

They typically come in long and short barrels, with the longer barrels giving a stronger whack, and the shorter ones giving lots of lighter faster blows.
They are all derived from air rivet guns. Stick with a .401" shank size as this is the most common with more of a range of attachments available - there are really big beefy ones with larger shanks (.498") that hit really hard, but they are very expensive and not needed 98% of the time.

You won't go far wrong with CP, IR, Aircat etc.
Most important feature IMO is a good teasing trigger which gives you a lot of control, especially if you are trying to keep it located on something when starting it up gently.

Make sure you put a decent size hose (10mm min) and high flow coupler on it, they like to eat air.

 

[Dcal]

I've a Welzh one and the standard cheap type.
The Welzh get used far more.
I think it is a long stroke version and it does hit harder.
The extra tools that came with the Welzh get used as well.

Mind you I didn't pay anything like €160 for it.
I bought from the local motor factor on offer.

 

[tigdlo]

Torque Test Channel on youtube tests air hammers, well worth a watch.

 

[Cobbler]

I’ve got a cheapie air chisel, cost about 12 quid if I recall, I made a hammer end for it. I’ve used it for all sorts of things, fantastic for removing wall tiles, I was changing a fence post & couldn’t move the lump of concrete on the bottom, so broke it up with the chisel. For the amount you will use it, don’t discount a cheap one.

 

[CompoSimmonite]

I’ve got a cheapie air chisel, cost about 12 quid if I recall, I made a hammer end for it. I’ve used it for all sorts of things, fantastic for removing wall tiles, I was changing a fence post & couldn’t move the lump of concrete on the bottom, so broke it up with the chisel. For the amount you will use it, don’t discount a cheap one.

Same here - bought a cheap one many years ago and it still works fine

 

[conor1n]

Thanks guys.

Normally, I would consider a cheapie tool.. but for this one, I am potentially going to be using it with a needle scaler attachment for rust as that is the business I am going into.
Perhaps I get a cheap hammer and then buy a decent dedicated needler..

 

[premmington]

Only concideration is: Turning or non turning bits

Spring retention of chuck retention

 

[Cobbler]

Only concideration is: Turning or non turning bits

Mine has turning bits, I wish it didn’t. I do find they are uncontrollable, have a mind of their own though. No good for dainty work.

 

[6ply]

Thanks guys.

Normally, I would consider a cheapie tool.. but for this one, I am potentially going to be using it with a needle scaler attachment for rust as that is the business I am going into.
Perhaps I get a cheap hammer and then buy a decent dedicated needler..

I bought a cheap one that came with various chisels and a needle scaler attachment.

I've used it for building work, tiling, paint and rust removal, etc.

The tool holder spring thing broke once, but that was easily replaced.

Apart from that, it is a great tool and has taken a lot of abuse but still works well.

It is loud!

 

[Shox Dr]

Air consumption is the biggest cost factor. In time and money. A tool may be cheaper to buy, but requires more air. At least you know the tool you borrowed works well and your current compressor can cope with the demand.

 

[Erie Fred]

Thanks guys.

Normally, I would consider a cheapie tool.. but for this one, I am potentially going to be using it with a needle scaler attachment for rust as that is the business I am going into.
Perhaps I get a cheap hammer and then buy a decent dedicated needler..

I will suggest the opposite.
cheap needle scaler, and spend the money on a good air hammer.

 

[conor1n]

I will suggest the opposite.
cheap needle scaler, and spend the money on a good air hammer.

Ok. Mind me asking your logic? Is it because the hammer is more brutal and better quality will last longer?

I was just thinking about utilisation rates - I would be inclined to use the needle scaler a lot more.

With that in mind, I will go cheap for both LMAO!

 

[Erie Fred]

Ok. Mind me asking your logic? Is it because the hammer is more brutal and better quality will last longer?

I was just thinking about utilisation rates - I would be inclined to use the needle scaler a lot more.

With that in mind, I will go cheap for both LMAO!

Yes, consider the needle scaler disposable. I don't see any performance
gains from more expensive models.
Cheap air hammers just don't work good enough right out of the box IMHO.
You need hard hitting power to push that bushing out pronto.

 

[MetalMonkey]

Depends on what you intend to do with it really. If you are spending upwards of £700 quid (900 bucks) on a industrial CP or tralawny type needlescaler - it wont be disposable!

If you are using it 8 hours a day you'll be looking for power, low vibration and longevity. If you only use it occasionally you can make do with a far more economical option. Likewise if you don't use an air hammer that often a cheap one will do.

Welz is a cheap and cheerful brand, so if it already does everything you need no need to pay a fortune.

Personally I'd go for something middle of the road and only upgrade if I had a job that would pay for it. Plenty of other tools to spend money on!

 

[lotus_esprit_s1]

Thanks guys.

Normally, I would consider a cheapie tool.. but for this one, I am potentially going to be using it with a needle scaler attachment for rust as that is the business I am going into.
Perhaps I get a cheap hammer and then buy a decent dedicated needler..

Waste of time using them as needle descaler with attachment, get a proper dedicated descaler, you will be surprised how good a decent one is.

 

[keithski122]

I've had cheap ones in the past and they've been worse than useless.I did have a bluepoint one which was great and only just sold it due to not useing it in the last ten years.A tool I had for it that was worth having was a curved bit that would cut exhaust apart while only cutting one piece so saving the other part.Alwasy use the rubber exetension lead as they kill connectors if directly fitted.

 

[CompoSimmonite]

Waste of time using them as needle descaler with attachment, get a proper dedicated descaler, you will be surprised how good a decent one is.

The needle scaler attachment I've got works fine for my DIY usage

 

[premmington]

I've had cheap ones in the past and they've been worse than useless.I did have a bluepoint one which was great and only just sold it due to not useing it in the last ten years.A tool I had for it that was worth having was a curved bit that would cut exhaust apart while only cutting one piece so saving the other part.Alwasy use the rubber exetension lead as they kill connectors if directly fitted.
View attachment 434375

I got indentical air chisel as you = Bluepoint (I do like the chuck on the Bluepoint one)

Also got smaller SnapOn one.

Really would like a non turning air chisel - Parker hex bits I think is what they are/called....? (not sure?)

 

[keithski122]

View attachment 434396

I got indentical air chisel as you = Bluepoint (I do like the chuck on the Bluepoint one)

Also got smaller SnapOn one.

Really would like a non turning air chisel - Parker hex bits I think is what they are/called....? (not sure?)

Sold all the bits in the photo for £120, the exhaust chisel new on its own is £70 so the buyer got a decent deal.