Let's hope not, I did wonder if one might have split/parted company but the thought of having to replace them is motivating me to dial out as many of the other variable as possible first.
As you say, there are loads of variables.
- Thread starter TEO
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As you say, there are loads of variables.
Barking Mat
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Yep, you don't need a bearing, the shaft is that short.
So at tickover is the engine stable ? Or does it bounce about ? How many cylinders ?
2 new items by Toby
photos.app.goo.gl
Much better than it was at tickover now that the lock nuts are locking.
4 cyl Barrus Shanks - Chinese tractor engine but for all that lack of refinement just chugs away & does what's asked of it.
There may well be some prop trauma (great expression) but as far as I can tell I've not hit anything & as nothing wrapped around the prop.
There is a marked wiggle coming through the tiller but that's always been there though to a lesser degree.
Barking Mat
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Difficult to assess engine mounts from a photo, but they certainly look 'vintage'.
Pull that black pipe out the way, disconnect the flanges from the gearbox to the shaft, and get some feeler gauges in there, the engine mounts can be adjusted until the flanges meet up uniformly.
Not easy to do, but the only way I know of doing it.
A four cylinder at tick over should run smoothly at 800 rpm +/-.
Sometimes the threaded bolt on the engine mounts can shear off.
You can check this with a crowbar, it does happen.
Pull that black pipe out the way, disconnect the flanges from the gearbox to the shaft, and get some feeler gauges in there, the engine mounts can be adjusted until the flanges meet up uniformly.
Not easy to do, but the only way I know of doing it.
A four cylinder at tick over should run smoothly at 800 rpm +/-.
Sometimes the threaded bolt on the engine mounts can shear off.
You can check this with a crowbar, it does happen.
Barking Mat
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addjunkie
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You could run the engine with the shaft disconnected, to see if the vibration is from the engine, see if it bounces about more or less.
Also use a steel rule around the outside, even if faces are parallel with feeler gauges, can still be slightly out of line.
Also,are they fitted bolts in the coupling or just normal bolts.
It's the ones that come armed with sailors hats & all the other accoutrements of a stagg do that put the fear into us.... Screaming around still drunk from the night before oblivious to how fast things can go wrong at 4mph
Hope you have a quiet day.
With your help the penny has at last dropped & I shall set to with the feeler guages.
As a matter of interest, any ideas on the cheapest places to haul out North Oxfordshire, Worcestershire up to Brum?
Thanks, there's much less of the bouncing around now that I've replaced the lock nuts but that does seem like a good way of isolating the prop to see how much of the vibes are coming from that end of the shaft.
Thanks for the steel rule tip, def worth a go.
You have the right excuse for the hat then & probably the right skill set.France explains the boat lengths.... Not sure if terrorising the cut is a French stagg do staple too?
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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Yup, I'm in Brittany, can't help you with hauling it out advice.
France explains the boat lengths.... Not sure if terrorising the cut is a French stagg do staple too?
I think you're psychic, 10 thirty year old lads on a stag weekend, with captains hats, coming in at 5pm.
But I have a two grand cheque as a security deposit.
Brad93
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Definitely looks over constrained, one bearing will be unnecessarily loaded, whereas if it only constrained by 2 points, the load would be shared. A flexible stern gland or shaft to gearbox coupling would solve this.
Even if the cutlass bearing, stern gland and engine are perfectly aligned the engine will still move.
Even if the cutlass bearing, stern gland and engine are perfectly aligned the engine will still move.
Plus ça change..... 
I'm grateful for your expertise & v. happy to benefit, if you have links to "an idiots guide" is like to learn more.
I'm sure that in another application constriction will may be the case but this system's be working on thousands of narrowboats for decades, on mine for a long time before I got it so I'm going to keep it simple as & just try & get it back to the perfectly acceptable state pre nylock nut failure. The stuffing box allows for a little movement just not as much s I've had recently.
I'm grateful for your expertise & v. happy to benefit, if you have links to "an idiots guide" is like to learn more.
Thanks, let's hope I can sort it without having to call in the cavalry
