DIY Compressed Air Dryer

[SmartWerks]

That looks good - make the manifold from smaller pipe (8 or 10mm) so the air takes the path of least resistance, ie round the bends. Also I'd drop the link between the manifold at the outlet.

Defo drop the link from the link to the manifold. I think using 10mm piping for the manifold is a bit small, 22mm main pipe and 15mm for the manifold. Shame I've got a coil of 10mm with bender, might use that with the oil less compressor as the air requirements for the powder gun is low so maybe get away with 15mm main piping with 10mm drops? But from the main I'm using 22mm so give 15mm a go for the drops and manifold,your theory makes good sense to me!

 

[rtbcomp]

........ I think using 10mm piping for the manifold is a bit small, 22mm main pipe and 15mm for the manifold. ..........

Perhaps just have the drops from the main pipe to the manifold 10mm and the manifold itself 22mm. That would still give some air resistance and increase the water capacity before it needs to be drained.

 

[Maker]

refrigerated dryer.

That gives me a (Potentially very dangerous) idea, going back to the multi tube heat exchanger, replace the cooling water with R-134a and the water pump with a refrigeration compressor. Now that would give you cold air.

 

[SmartWerks]

Perhaps just have the drops from the main pipe to the manifold 10mm and the manifold itself 22mm. That would still give some air resistance and increase the water capacity before it needs to be drained.

Sounds like a good idea, I think I will use 22mm on both systems. I didn't pay for the 10mm piping so by incorporating it will negate the extra cost of the 22mm over the 15mm. This is why i take my time, first idea is rarely the best.

 

[rtbcomp]

That gives me a (Potentially very dangerous) idea, going back to the multi tube heat exchanger, replace the cooling water with R-134a and the water pump with a refrigeration compressor. Now that would give you cold air.

Then the whole cooler will be working at high pressure - I suspect a hot water tank wouldn't stand that.

 

[Rig Pig]

You could just make the drops separate 22mm lines with a valve on each one to stop any carry over of water. I think I will make something similar to go between the pump and receiver when I install my big compressor.

 

[normspanners]

Thing is, as said i found 120 x 22mm yorkshire tee's for VERY little money, but had thought about, using a hole cutter, to make some dished copper washers to pop on top of each drain pipe that would'nt restrict the main air flow but the 6mm hole would, restrict the flow into the drain pipes and allow the condensate to drain into the manifold. I only put a few loops in the drawing but was thinking of putting more in the actual cooler itself (got fed up with win paint) the amount of water held would not be a great deal because if connected to the unloader it would drain every time the compressor got to pressure. that also would allow the compressor a nice soft start build up for a minute or so.
A little waste of air but worth it I think.

 

[Maker]

Instead of making some washers, can't you get some 22 to 8mm reducers?

 

[normspanners]

As said, I already have the 22mm tees so to knock up some washer will take no time, 22 to 8 will have to fit on outside of pipe but then wont go into the female of the tees, whereas washers popped into the tee first then the drain leg after it will solder in at the same time.

 

[rtbcomp]

IIRC the capillary microbore reducers fit inside the 22/15mm fittings. Can you get 22 to 8?

In any event if you've got the bits you've got the bits.

 

[Farside]

Why not just flow the water through the tank, no need for a 2nd coil and better heat transfer. You could set up a pump to pump the water through a freezer, but if you go to that trouble just run the air through a pipe in the freezer.

Reason I suggest a twin-coil tank is I don't fancy drinking water that's passed through the hot cylinder main body if it's an old tank and who'd use a new one...