- Thread starter malcolm
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rtcosic
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That's exactly what I had in mind in my earlier post.
Maybe check out Compriband
https://www.dortechdirect.co.uk/sho...snK1ZFoC_B7EGgfX5Yl7PLkILlxQ93qhoCPjUQAvD_BwE
Hth.
https://www.dortechdirect.co.uk/sho...snK1ZFoC_B7EGgfX5Yl7PLkILlxQ93qhoCPjUQAvD_BwE
Hth.
gaz1
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there is another way you can make double glazing on the cheap
its using a plastic film as my house was rented horrible cold and single glazed at that
wickes use to sell it and it does work
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stormgua...=274310187097912e6f18c73640a59dd8b2c05f1e370d
its using a plastic film as my house was rented horrible cold and single glazed at that
wickes use to sell it and it does work
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stormgua...=274310187097912e6f18c73640a59dd8b2c05f1e370d
slim_boy_fat
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I used to have that stuff in a previous property. The draughts were such that the plastic used to balloon like the sails on a ship. I nicknamed it the Nora Batty double glazing...
It did help a bit with the inside temperature though.
Last edited:
Bobtail4x4
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Just a thought, it looks like it's ground floor, if doing it for bedrooms think about "means of escape" - I've seen a lot of DG that would turn upstairs into a death-trap in a fire
Dave H. (the other one)
its ok he can take out an insurance policy "according to a bloke down the pub"
Bobtail4x4
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you should have adequate ventilation to any room,
malcolm
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That's a good point. It's the only room in the house with no opening windows. Don't fancy an opener onto the pavement, but the only way I'll get a through flow of air in there would be to leave 2 of the doors open and open other windows. Funny what you don't think about when you've never actually used a room before.
You can buy a self adhesive silicon seal from the likes of toolstation, or a foam one from the same.
malcolm
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Going nice. Didn't realise it was the weekend so kept at stuff and I'm getting the mouldings on now. Tired myself out - spent the morning trying to figure out which angles were 45 degrees, which ones were 41 or 49 degrees while second guessing where a compound 7 degrees might also be needed. Head hurts, but only a little bit of moulding written off so far.
Morrisman
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I’m pretty sure most modern houses are so air tight that people get oxygen starvation overnight.
It might explain where the latest ‘Tide Pod generation’ originated from.
Westfield-builder
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What a great find 
Malcolm - I'm on the way to posting my own window project here when I get around to sketching it out. It's based on one I've had installed in Scotland made from local timber, in collaboration with an old-school joiner. The seal you're interested in is a simple woollen felt strip, as detailed below. I think that would be ideal for your project.
I did my architectural training in northern Sweden and while there lived in a C19th house insulated with moss and sawdust. I was delighted with their traditional glazing system, and wanted to emulate it. The house was fine down to -30C. With a tile-stove in the central cross wall it was toasty! I have been in contact with a Norwegian Architect, Bjoern Berge, who writes about modern versions of these traditional window forms in a brilliant book - 'The Ecology of Building Materials'.
In Scotland, I was keen to avoid double glazing because of its environmental impact. The energy used to make the argon is far greater than the window saves. Fine if you're looking for absolute U-values, but as that's only a part of how thermal transfer works, embodied energy is a big thing for me. Another problem is repair. The units are often imported from abroad, they are heavy and that adds to the energetic footprint. They can't be repaired because of the chemical seals and gas filling. They will leak, because nothing lasts forever.
The project in Scotland has two coupled frames made from local timber, similar to the Finnish method, but with elements of the eastern European 'Fortochka' where air is let in the outside bottom of a double window, rises between the windows as it warms and is released into the room via a casement on the upper inner side. Thus the fresh air coming in is pre-heated, and sound isolation is improved because the waves have to bounce between the two windows to escape and are attenuated each time.
The glass is mounted on wool felt strips, held with sprigs or the visible beading. The felt is exposed on the inner edge (either beneath the beading or between it and the glass) and on the outer pane linseed putty does its traditional job. The felt absorbs any moisture between the panes, which then migrates inside through capillary action where it evaporates into the warmer interior air.
The simple construction means that any reasonably competent person, or local joiner/glazier can replace broken panes or components cheaply without having to order special double-glazed units.
Your resurrection of an 'original' place by removing the bad but retaining the well-made of yesteryear is really admirable. Sensitive upgrading in the way you're considering is how more building should be done. The places we visit as tourist attractions are almost always interesting because they show an agglomeration of different ages and their preoccupations. Buildings are added to rather than being scatted down as is so often done today because it's cheaper, and more noddy-boxes pop up in their places.
I did my architectural training in northern Sweden and while there lived in a C19th house insulated with moss and sawdust. I was delighted with their traditional glazing system, and wanted to emulate it. The house was fine down to -30C. With a tile-stove in the central cross wall it was toasty! I have been in contact with a Norwegian Architect, Bjoern Berge, who writes about modern versions of these traditional window forms in a brilliant book - 'The Ecology of Building Materials'.
In Scotland, I was keen to avoid double glazing because of its environmental impact. The energy used to make the argon is far greater than the window saves. Fine if you're looking for absolute U-values, but as that's only a part of how thermal transfer works, embodied energy is a big thing for me. Another problem is repair. The units are often imported from abroad, they are heavy and that adds to the energetic footprint. They can't be repaired because of the chemical seals and gas filling. They will leak, because nothing lasts forever.
The project in Scotland has two coupled frames made from local timber, similar to the Finnish method, but with elements of the eastern European 'Fortochka' where air is let in the outside bottom of a double window, rises between the windows as it warms and is released into the room via a casement on the upper inner side. Thus the fresh air coming in is pre-heated, and sound isolation is improved because the waves have to bounce between the two windows to escape and are attenuated each time.
The glass is mounted on wool felt strips, held with sprigs or the visible beading. The felt is exposed on the inner edge (either beneath the beading or between it and the glass) and on the outer pane linseed putty does its traditional job. The felt absorbs any moisture between the panes, which then migrates inside through capillary action where it evaporates into the warmer interior air.
The simple construction means that any reasonably competent person, or local joiner/glazier can replace broken panes or components cheaply without having to order special double-glazed units.
Your resurrection of an 'original' place by removing the bad but retaining the well-made of yesteryear is really admirable. Sensitive upgrading in the way you're considering is how more building should be done. The places we visit as tourist attractions are almost always interesting because they show an agglomeration of different ages and their preoccupations. Buildings are added to rather than being scatted down as is so often done today because it's cheaper, and more noddy-boxes pop up in their places.
malcolm
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Thanks @Dragnet I like the idea of felt strips. I hate using anything waterproof anywhere as it stops water evaporating out (it's always going to find a way in). A seal probably wouldn't be a bother but felt strips would be perfect. I've cut a 2mm recess into the frame with the idea of a 3mm compressible seal. I'll see what I can find.
Looking forward to seeing your window project. It sounds excellent.
Looking forward to seeing your window project. It sounds excellent.
RH Nuttall are a large supplier that do pure wool felt stripping. I don't know what their situation is at the moment. Smaller quantities can be got from slitting crafting felt. Wool is still the best material for damp jumpers, as it retains its warmth when wet (an old rollneck is great for sailing!). Synthetic felt won't do the same job as it won't absorb and transfer any condensation, so make sure you get real wool. RH Nuttall for instance do a variety of grades and thicknesses, some of which are more compressible than others. 3mm is a good thickness, I think.
One of my 190-something building manuals has some designs for internal glazed doors where the glass is mounted on 'washleather'. I suppose for a dry installation for ease of repair, as it wouldn't need the putty of an exterior glazed panel.
I've been sketching up my frame sizes to send to the joiner this morning, so I hope to have something to discuss here soon.
Addendum: I've attached a picture of one of the 'fortochka'-inspired windows. Double inner window, single toughened outer. Inner both panes on felt; outer puttied.
One of my 190-something building manuals has some designs for internal glazed doors where the glass is mounted on 'washleather'. I suppose for a dry installation for ease of repair, as it wouldn't need the putty of an exterior glazed panel.
I've been sketching up my frame sizes to send to the joiner this morning, so I hope to have something to discuss here soon.
Addendum: I've attached a picture of one of the 'fortochka'-inspired windows. Double inner window, single toughened outer. Inner both panes on felt; outer puttied.
