Drilling chinese diesel heater tank (Finest plastic tank)

[Jelly_Sheffield]

Keep an eye on the supplied fuel line, it's not the best quality. Mine failed without warning and dumped half a tank of kerosene for fun.

If you carefully saw the hose barb off the connection on the heater, there's just enough length to correctly seat a compression fitting on it allowing you to use proper hard-line.

The same can be done to the fuel pump, much more secure that way.

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

Some of them claim 8kw which is nonsense so ignore that. They come in these separate tank kits or an "all in one" unit. Just personal preference really - the all in one type tend to have a smaller fuel tank as it's all housed in one case.

I believe the 8kW and 5kW flavours are both copies of the erberspacher D4, which is actually 4kW.

The 2kW is a clone of the D2.

 

[JOEPRO]

The heater I bought last year (well two actually, as they mistakenly sent two...) came with that tank, but with standpipe kits.

Personally, I'd mount the tank below the heater.
The pumps rely on some pretty basic valving to stop fuel leaking through them, so with a high head of fuel, it can gradually weep through the pump.
The worst case scenario is any excess the fuel runs out the exhaust, and you'll get a big cloud of white smoke when it does try starting, but it's something I'd personally try to avoid.

As said - if mounting a fuel tank above the heater was a real issue then surely the manufacturers wouldn't be doing it then?

In any case - like all diesel heater threads - too many chefs! I am very happy with my install as is and I won't be changing it.

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

if mounting a fuel tank above the heater was a real issue then surely the manufacturers wouldn't be doing it then?

I am not sure I would trust the manufacturer's judgement...

The designer's installation manual (being that they're all clones of erberspacher airtronics) states that as far as possible the fuel lines should always rise progressively towards the heater unit.

But it does indicate that it is permissable to tap into a fuel tank up to 3m above the heater, if the pump is installed in the preferred orientation (discharge side oriented up at an angle of 15°-30°).

Whether the valving of the clone pumps can actually stand up to 4.2psig of head is unclear, I know that in my installation with about half that much head mine will lose prime after approximately 4 days without use, so in the reverse flow direction the pump check valves definitely don't hold up.

If it works for you, then that's good enough.

 

[m_c]

As said - if mounting a fuel tank above the heater was a real issue then surely the manufacturers wouldn't be doing it then?

In any case - like all diesel heater threads - too many chefs! I am very happy with my install as is and I won't be changing it.

It's your install, but a potential 6" head of fuel, is a bit different from a potential 2 foot head of fuel.

Only thing I'd advise, is that if you do find it emitting a cloud of white smoke when starting after not being run for a while, then fuel leaking through the pump is likely to be the cause.
Even if it does, provided it does start up (when flooded, it can take the heater a few attempts to clear itself enough to ignite), and you run it at full temperature for a while, there isn't likely to be any longer term effects.

 

[JOEPRO]

I am not sure I would trust the manufacturer's judgement...

The designer's installation manual (being that they're all clones of erberspacher airtronics) states that as far as possible the fuel lines should always rise progressively towards the heater unit.

But it does indicate that it is permissable to tap into a fuel tank up to 3m above the heater, if the pump is installed in the preferred orientation (discharge side oriented up at an angle of 15°-30°).

Whether the valving of the clone pumps can actually stand up to 4.2psig of head is unclear, I know that in my installation with about half that much head mine will lose prime after approximately 4 days without use, so in the reverse flow direction the pump check valves definitely don't hold up.

If it works for you, then that's good enough.

Yes I installed the fuel pump with the outlet pointing up slightly towards the heater for priming etc.

I could also fit a small fuel isolator valve on the tank outlet if it becomes any concern long term.

In reality when it comes near end of peak usage season I will always let the tank run until near empty. Aka it won't be sitting all summer with a full tank of fuel.

 

[Farside]

No.

The manufacturers make the heaters with the fuel tank inbuilt and touching the heater so zero issues.

Prime example:

View attachment 479413

Well, I've great faith in Chinese fire precautions. I'm sure it will be fine.

 

[JOEPRO]

It's your install, but a potential 6" head of fuel, is a bit different from a potential 2 foot head of fuel.

Only thing I'd advise, is that if you do find it emitting a cloud of white smoke when starting after not being run for a while, then fuel leaking through the pump is likely to be the cause.
Even if it does, provided it does start up (when flooded, it can take the heater a few attempts to clear itself enough to ignite), and you run it at full temperature for a while, there isn't likely to be any longer term effects.

Yes and an isolator valve would be a good solution there if it becomes a problem.

Also - I run these heaters at max all the time. It's better for them and in a garage scenario they don't heat up the space enough to have to turn them down. I can imagine in a small enclosed van space that would be a useful feature but not needed in a garage.

 

[JOEPRO]

Well, I've great faith in Chinese fire precautions. I'm sure it will be fine.

Exactly.

 

[JOEPRO]

I'm going to clamp the dc in lead tomorrow morning on a cold startup. And see what the max amps draw is on this heater.

I would like a sealed power supply really rather than the metal jobbies with the exposed 230v terminals. Yes you can put them in a ventilated enclosure but there must be a sealed AC / DC 12v adapter that can drive one of these and eliminate some bare terminals or clunky plastic enclosures....

Something like this but remove the cig lighter plug and use a 2 pin plug or solder the cables.

 

[m_c]

They take around 100W during startup, possibly a bit more initially, however I can't think of seeing any reasonably priced sealed PSU with that kind of power output.
Possibly get some form of brick, but I can't think of ever seeing anything that powerful.
13.8V is common for amateur radio, but I have no idea what kind of current those supplies put out.

 

[julianf]

They take around 100W during startup, possibly a bit more initially, however I can't think of seeing any reasonably priced sealed PSU with that kind of power output.
Possibly get some form of brick, but I can't think of ever seeing anything that powerful.
13.8V is common for amateur radio, but I have no idea what kind of current those supplies put out.

A quick trip to the kitchen table... : (

They're not cheap though. Most of the cost of one of the heaters, I suspect.

 

[angellonewolf]

As said - if mounting a fuel tank above the heater was a real issue then surely the manufacturers wouldn't be doing it then?

In any case - like all diesel heater threads - too many chefs! I am very happy with my install as is and I won't be changing it.

near every genny there are out there are fuel tank above the engine and all the sparky bits i cant see why the heater should be huge amounts differant

 

[JOEPRO]

They take around 100W during startup, possibly a bit more initially, however I can't think of seeing any reasonably priced sealed PSU with that kind of power output.
Possibly get some form of brick, but I can't think of ever seeing anything that powerful.
13.8V is common for amateur radio, but I have no idea what kind of current those supplies put out.

The amazon one I screenshoted has 180watt capacity for £23.

So if these heaters pull around 100 watt max that would be good news for this kind of sealed adapter then.

 

[qwakers]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Padarsey-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Compatible/dp/B09YRGTTJ6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.JlTyLsEQErCXyVc0G9I0KNoQdSRkBDm6n2iAt6j9AFRBYupySlmj46IZZf0klsTs3lTR2jrSOrUVnwvxcO7jxTLoUSGRmUE0H86uYowHrV655N5UZOblcnoHTaxTKuq35_I15jcoGCfOR7WTUyXSamgnqvnkitjX_sV0j0TIU9NlawIBQ1meP8QTaa1BopJ2SMJPGUPNrGP5n-CVmApvyzVT5WSUsyoEaLkmTrhH3YU.KHWrSmT3hiZDkHBhZRI2i5BIgsxY1rbYVmpSzr7apQc&dib_tag=se&keywords=12v+power+supply&qid=1736031557&sr=8-5

 

[JOEPRO]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Padarsey-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Compatible/dp/B09YRGTTJ6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.JlTyLsEQErCXyVc0G9I0KNoQdSRkBDm6n2iAt6j9AFRBYupySlmj46IZZf0klsTs3lTR2jrSOrUVnwvxcO7jxTLoUSGRmUE0H86uYowHrV655N5UZOblcnoHTaxTKuq35_I15jcoGCfOR7WTUyXSamgnqvnkitjX_sV0j0TIU9NlawIBQ1meP8QTaa1BopJ2SMJPGUPNrGP5n-CVmApvyzVT5WSUsyoEaLkmTrhH3YU.KHWrSmT3hiZDkHBhZRI2i5BIgsxY1rbYVmpSzr7apQc&dib_tag=se&keywords=12v+power+supply&qid=1736031557&sr=8-5

Yes.

Exposed 230v connections much?

 

[qwakers]

they are not exactly exposed, they have a cover. just keep away from small fingered people.

 

[JOEPRO]

Those metal transformers with exposed connections are rubbish.

People claim to fit them in plastic ventilated enclosures and I'm sure some people do. But most don't!

It's a clear safety issue and looks **** poor on any install.

Hence why I will be looking for a sealed adaptor for this heater with no exposed connectors or tomfoolery.

 

[JOEPRO]

@m_c it would be very helpful if you could post pictures of your 2x diesel heater installs please.

How did you connect yours to power etc? I'll admit my other heater has a metal transformer and exposed terminals. So I'll likely update both if this works.

 

[not done it yet]

No.

The manufacturers make the heaters with the fuel tank inbuilt and touching the heater so zero issues.

Prime example:

View attachment 479413

Sorry, but wrong again. That type of heater is for external use only. There is a very hot exhaust pipe underneath that type.