electrolytic rust removal

[Screwdriver]

I haven't tried a basket yet but the idea has occurred to me too. I think the trick would be to make sure the parts were clean enough to make an electrical contact just by sitting in the basket. For cleaning I don't think you'd need to worry about it being chromed.

 

[ajlelectronics]

If you are pulling more than an Amp or so, you have a short circuit.

 

[Chris Stevens]

Plating wont adhere to Ti, but it is electrically conductive, so seems perfect. I guess no real need for anything other than Ti mesh in the bottom of a plastic container of some sort, just to make electrical contact? Not sure if the mesh would increase current needed to plate parts though?

 

[Chris Stevens]

If you are pulling more than an Amp or so, you have a short circuit.

Would cheap Chinese power supply (5-15v -0-15amps) be suitable for electro cleaning as well as plating?

 

[ajlelectronics]

Any old thing you have lurking will do. I have used 500mA wall warts as well as battery chargers etc. The only way you can pull lots of current, is if your electrolyte is actually Mercury! Lower currents work just as well, there is no need to have it frothing like a witch's cauldron to be effective.

 

[Chris Stevens]

Thanks............. couldnt see much point in higher current, and thought it might even be detrimental.

 

[Wallace]

Non that I can think of, offhand. Does it leave the base metal untouched and just take off the oxide layer?

From memory it was just the oxide, no fizzing took place and it was clean in seconds.

Would cheap Chinese power supply (5-15v -0-15amps) be suitable for electro cleaning as well as plating?

These were discussed earlier in the thread from post #55, might save you some money!

 

[Chris Stevens]

Not so, I can drag 10+ amps through electrolyte by adding more electrode surface area. No short circuit involved.

Does the process work faster at 10amps, and is the result the same as lower current over a longer time?

 

[Chris Stevens]

From memory it was just the oxide, no fizzing took place and it was clean in seconds.



These were discussed earlier in the thread from post #55, might save you some money!

Thanks, but already have power supply, which I bought after seeing the "current control module" in the BZP kit I got hold of.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Well I am surprised. You must have very litle electrolyte in there, but 40 Amps, I just can't see.

 

[Maker]

I couldn't tell you if it had any shorts, I've just spent the last hour cleaning brown rusty caustic soda off the floor.




Lesson learnt, washing soda next time.

 

[MattF]

Anyone use a basket of some sort to hold small parts for cleaning? Seems very fiddly wiring together a load of small nuts and bolts to be cleaned.

Yup, and for that very reason you mention. After having to hand wire way too many small parts over time, I made this, and still use it. By no means pretty, but it does what intended.

 

[MattF]

Not so, I can drag 10+ amps through electrolyte by adding more electrode surface area. No short circuit involved.

Specifics may differ on setup, but his point stands. If Maker managed to drag 40A or so through his, it would tend to suggest something is shorted. I don't think I could manage that no matter what I tried.

 

[MattF]

Well I am surprised. You must have very litle electrolyte in there, but 40 Amps, I just can't see.

Me neither.

I couldn't tell you if it had any shorts, I've just spent the last hour cleaning brown rusty caustic soda off the floor.

Lesson learnt, washing soda next time.

Why do you think all of my vats are outside? Once and only once did I ever put a small tub inside to clean something, and Sod's law kicked in. Lost my grip on the part as I lifted it out, and spent a hour cleaning up in the vicinity due to it splashing solution everywhere.

 

[MattF]

Does the process work faster at 10amps, and is the result the same as lower current over a longer time?

As AJL says, run it low. I've farted around with different currents over time, and the difference it makes is not vast. The main thing running it higher seems to affect is things like removing paint, purely for the reason that the bubbling motion is helping lift paint from the surface, but with regards the conversion of rust to black oxide, I've barely noted any real time difference between running low or higher current, bar that you're using more electric for no discernible gain. The higher you run it, the more damage you risk. There's a good reason why historical item restorers run low current over a period of days or weeks through to months.

 

[Chris Stevens]

As AJL says, run it low. I've farted around with different currents over time, and the difference it makes is not vast. The main thing running it higher seems to affect is things like removing paint, purely for the reason that the bubbling motion is helping lift paint from the surface, but with regards the conversion of rust to black oxide, I've barely noted any real time difference between running low or higher current, bar that you're using more electric for no discernible gain. The higher you run it, the more damage you risk. There's a good reason why historical item restorers run low current over a period of days or weeks through to months.

Thanks, very useful info. Whats your basket made out of? Think something along the same lines would be very useful.

 

[MattF]

Thanks, very useful info. Whats your basket made out of? Think something along the same lines would be very useful.

God knows. It's just some wire mesh that I collared years ago. Hard as owt that stuff. I knew I'd find a use for it one day. Any wire mesh would do. Uncoated, preferably. Brass would be my perfect choice, but I simply used what I had to hand. As long as it's conductive, it'll do.

With regards to the efficacy point of low vs high current, btw, this machine was done completely using that variable 3A PSU, and seeing as I never run it at full whack, no piece of this machine would ever have seen any more than 2.5A max., and as you can see, it's no lightweight.

That's just fine flash rust visible on the slotted table, btw, from after I removed it from the vat. I really am going to have to get round to putting the finishing touches to that machine.

 

[Chris Stevens]

Thanks... so no need for Ti baskets for plating (suggested by a kit seller) or 40A power supplies?

 

[MattF]

No idea how important the metal type would be for plating, but for cleaning, almost anything works.

If you're plating, your current has to be calculated precisely for your setup. Plating is a whole different ball game. For plating, I'd personally string the times separately. You don't want blind spots where pieces are touching the mesh, I'd say. If you're stringing them manually, you know exactly where the blind spots will be. It can't coat what it can't touch.

 

[Chris Stevens]

Its possible to use a basket for plating but parts must be agitated to get full coverage.