RobCox
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- Cambridge, UK
@Milkybars thanks for looking. I guess I'd better carry on drilling!
- Thread starter RobCox
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RobCox
Member
- Messages
- 402
- Location
- Cambridge, UK
I finally got the "B" dividing plate drilled. I took four passes per hole circle, first with a sharpie to give me a reference in case I lost count (I did a couple of times), then spot the locations with a centre drill, drill to depth with a 3mm drill, then finally a tiny chamfer with the centre drill:
This went back on the lathe, turned to the required OD, then it needed the hole numbers punched in. I'm not that good with number punches, so I made up a simple jig to keep the punch vertical and keep the numbers in line:
Ignore the hole in the bottom. Thats a leftover from this offcut's previous life. I was very pleased with the final result:
So on to the nameplate. I printed out a reverse image of the lettering onto laser toner transfer paper. The original image was a scan of the battered nameplate, then tidied up on the PC (the longest part of creating the new nameplate). I took a piece of ally flat to act as a heat reservoir, warmed it up with a propane torch, put the nameplate on the ally flat, heated the thin plate up a bit then placed the transfer paper image onto the hot ally. A bit of rolling and it had stuck nicely. When cool enough to handle, soak in water to release the paper. A few coats of polyurethane lacquer and we have a new nameplate:
Not perfect, but less beat up than the old one. I made 3 so I could pick the best. The rattle can of lacquer clogged up doing the last one, which was better aligned than the one above. Typical. The trick with transferring the image was to make sure the metal was hot enough so the toner would stick.
The castings have now had 3 coats of the J&S surface grinder blue paint, each being rubbed smooth before the next was applied. Still not perfect but it'll do as it'll get coated in oil and chips soon enough:
And so for the start of reassembly:
There are a couple of small machining jobs to do. The helical/spur gear idler shaft needs an oil passage drilled and the universal shaft needs a key, a knurled locknut and some spacers. Other than that it's just about done.
This went back on the lathe, turned to the required OD, then it needed the hole numbers punched in. I'm not that good with number punches, so I made up a simple jig to keep the punch vertical and keep the numbers in line:
Ignore the hole in the bottom. Thats a leftover from this offcut's previous life. I was very pleased with the final result:
So on to the nameplate. I printed out a reverse image of the lettering onto laser toner transfer paper. The original image was a scan of the battered nameplate, then tidied up on the PC (the longest part of creating the new nameplate). I took a piece of ally flat to act as a heat reservoir, warmed it up with a propane torch, put the nameplate on the ally flat, heated the thin plate up a bit then placed the transfer paper image onto the hot ally. A bit of rolling and it had stuck nicely. When cool enough to handle, soak in water to release the paper. A few coats of polyurethane lacquer and we have a new nameplate:
Not perfect, but less beat up than the old one. I made 3 so I could pick the best. The rattle can of lacquer clogged up doing the last one, which was better aligned than the one above. Typical. The trick with transferring the image was to make sure the metal was hot enough so the toner would stick.
The castings have now had 3 coats of the J&S surface grinder blue paint, each being rubbed smooth before the next was applied. Still not perfect but it'll do as it'll get coated in oil and chips soon enough:
And so for the start of reassembly:
There are a couple of small machining jobs to do. The helical/spur gear idler shaft needs an oil passage drilled and the universal shaft needs a key, a knurled locknut and some spacers. Other than that it's just about done.
Must look up laser transfer paper - a big step up from the old Letraset rub off transfer sheets
RobCox
Member
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- 402
- Location
- Cambridge, UK
I did the last couple of outstanding jobs on this div head today and it's finally done!
Firstly, drilled an oil port in the helical/spur gear shaft. I'd thought you could inject oil through the end of the shaft but the dividing plate gets in the way, so the hole in the end of the shaft was plugged. There is a small hole in the casting to allow an oil feed:
The second job was to clean up the key on the universal drive shaft, make a knurled locknut for the threaded end and two spacers. I made these 1/2" and 5/8" long, each with an internal keyway. The 1/2" spacer can be removed if a drive gear is fitted to this shaft. The gears I have for the other dividing head are about 0.560" wide, 16DP:
And that's it! Here where I started:
and here it is in its restored condition:
Finally, the rogues' gallery of bodged, bent and mangled parts that have been replaced:
That's all folks!
Firstly, drilled an oil port in the helical/spur gear shaft. I'd thought you could inject oil through the end of the shaft but the dividing plate gets in the way, so the hole in the end of the shaft was plugged. There is a small hole in the casting to allow an oil feed:
The second job was to clean up the key on the universal drive shaft, make a knurled locknut for the threaded end and two spacers. I made these 1/2" and 5/8" long, each with an internal keyway. The 1/2" spacer can be removed if a drive gear is fitted to this shaft. The gears I have for the other dividing head are about 0.560" wide, 16DP:
And that's it! Here where I started:
and here it is in its restored condition:
Finally, the rogues' gallery of bodged, bent and mangled parts that have been replaced:
That's all folks!
Imagine how much this would cost if the OP was doing this to sell. It would cost a fortune.
No wonder things get binned...lol
What method was that??
I was not sure what laser toner transfer paper was.
Smouser
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- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
Oh sorryI was not sure what laser toner transfer paper was.
I have not used it yet, but it looks simple.
Laser toner transfer paper is used in a laser printer. You print something on it and then transfer whatever you printed on the paper onto something else (like a new nameplate).
RobCox
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- Messages
- 402
- Location
- Cambridge, UK
Laser toner transfer paper is used quite a lot for making DIY printed circuit boards. You print onto it, the paper has a coating that accepts the toner. Heat up the part you want the design transferred to and press the paper onto it. The toner melts and sticks to the target medium. Soak it in water and the coating dissolves and the toner is left on the new medium (aluminium sheet, copper clad pcb etc). It can be used as an etch resist or as I did, lacquer it to protect it.
