ajlelectronics
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That is sarcasm, right?
- Thread starter czm
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That is sarcasm, right?
ajlelectronics
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The blue hoses are feeding the choke on the DGAS. the heater should be plumbed between the back of the pump and the spigot at the rear of the inlet manifold.
zx9
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Traditional Hammerite was not very petrol resistant, I don't know about the current stuff.
Wallace
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This always worries me when I see engine and shot blasting in the same sentence as they don't mix very well!
I have used Hammerite in the past and Smoothrite successfully thinned down and sprayed on with a Humbrol sprayer, this was before I had the mini touch up spray guns. Not an easy paint to get consistent results from especially the silver. Epoxymastic 121 direct to bare blasted metal has worked well and the last engine I painted using Lycoming Grey engine enamel from an aircraft suppliers.
Langy used Epoxy from memory, the Cadillac engine was heavy metalflake.
Smoothrite silver on the frame & parts, engine and oil tank is silver and black mixed going against Finnigans directions. All sprayed with a Humbrol Sprayer converted to compressed air
Lycoming Grey and Epoxymastic 121 black on the engine, light grey engine bay is again Epoxymastic 121. Steering rack someone else painted and doesn't match the Epoxy.
No just fact,
if I had spent the time and money as he has obviously done I would have wanted the best finish possible. I'm sure you may have heard the saying 'spoiling the ship for a hap'orth of tar'.
ajlelectronics
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No just fact,
So why use POR-15 products when far superior paints are available at lower cost? I used to use a lot of it at one time, but it hasn't kept up with its competition.
8ob
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The only reason I use VHT is because normal paints dont normally survive around the exhaust ports. I have seen loads of nicely detailed engines fail in this area, I understand that they are ok on blocks etc but I would not want the job of repainting a detailed engine in situ. Ali parts if not being polished are better off being sent off for anodising , all of the blue on the engine and ancillary parts below never came to £100
Bob
Bob
Burdekin
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No just fact,
Good marketing doesn’t make it good paint. Much better stuff out there so you are right about one thing. :-)
Because POR15 is fit for purpose without going OTT
ajlelectronics
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There we have to disagree! At one time yes, but that time is now well in the past. Far superior products are now available that do not need to be imported and so cost far less. They are also immune to solvents, unlike single component paints like the POR range.
Morrisman
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Okay, sounds logical, now I look closer at the picture . I’ll be eliminate the water temp temp choke, for simplicity, I have a manual choke conversion.
I guess I can just plug off the two pipe stubs?
ajlelectronics
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I would connect them together, ie short circuit rather than open circuit. Save up for a 38DGAS, far better for the engine and the driver not to have to play tunes on a choke cable
Wallace
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The water chokes were usually considered to be rubbish and manual was the way to go when they went wrong. Truth was corrosion caused the poor running and starting problems from a lack of antifreeze and corrosion inhibitors. The electric chokes tended to be more reliable but they usually ended up getting swapped to manual when they needed replacing. I had a great electric choke on a 390cfm 4bbl Holley and stupidly decided to fit a Holley manual choke, awful thing that was no better than a lawn mower choke as it had no vacuum pull down and would flood the engine in no time . Left it open in the end and used the accelerator pump to get the car running.
Anyway, I'm straying
fftopic: 
Anyway, I'm straying
fftopic:
Morrisman
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For a guess, connecting them together means water bypasses the block, loses a touch of cooling capacity. Whether it makes much difference to anything I’m not sure.
It already has a Dgas on it, probably needs rebuilding through, by the look of it, but they are nice little carbs.
Might swap out that air filter though........
Morrisman
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.......Left it open in the end and used the accelerator pump to get the car running.
Anyway, I'm straying
I put a 38dgas on a Rover V8, played round with it a fair bit and need up stripping all the choke gubbins off of it, and trimming the remainder down until it was nothing more than just the basic carb body. Starting in cold weather meant a few pros on the throttle to squirt extra fuel in, then keep it alight on the throttle until it warmed up.
Eventually swapped it for a Offy 500 but it ran no better, or faster, just used for fuel.
And to keep on topic, I didn’t paint the block.
ajlelectronics
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It is an important part of the coolant flow through the head and was a later Ford modification. So even without a heater I would recommend connecting them.
Morrisman
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Choke hoses, or the heater? I was thinking of plugging of the choke hoses, so the water is forced to go where it will do some good.
I definitely plan to fit a heater, open top roadster, chilly in winter.
