chevy2
Member
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You forgot about the bit where it seams to run slower every time a newer model is released to sway you towards buying the new 'quicker' model.
- Thread starter Noods
- Start date
wheresmejumper
Banned
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- 2,626
Possibly you are letting it too long before adding filler and too much heat is getting into the weld pool, and is sinking.
no amount of filler will make it right.
possibly again
no amount of filler will make it right.
possibly again
Noods
Member
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Ha... As too. " you don't pass your driving test without taking lessons first "
Well, I know I can't weld unfortunately.. However, I never had a driving lesson and passed my test... Drove on a farm from about the age of. 13... Went on to race up to f3... Just lucky I didn't have to repair my own damage lol
Well, I know I can't weld unfortunately.. However, I never had a driving lesson and passed my test... Drove on a farm from about the age of. 13... Went on to race up to f3... Just lucky I didn't have to repair my own damage lol
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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Don't give up man, have another go but take your time, It's not easy to learn but once you get the hang of it it will be easy, I promise. Thicker metal it easier to practice on, I bought myself some 40x8 flat bar to use.
Firstly; make sure the metal is absolutely clean. Check the tungsten is clean and sharp. Scribe a line on the plate to follow and light an arc on the line and just make a puddle then slowly move it along the line. Do not use filler for now. You should have the gas set to ~6lpm, about 2-3mm arc length and for this, it wont matter if your a bit (a lot) cold, say 80 amps. The push angle should be steeper than 60 degrees but less than 90. Have a few goes at this and then try it with filler. Make a puddle as before but dip the filler rod in out and move the torch a few mm forward and repeat. Don't worry about trying to feed the rod through your hand yet, just hold it and dab it. If the filler balls up then the torch angle is too shallow and the heat is reflecting back up or your feeding the rod from too high up, Almost rest it on the plate and touch the very edge of the puddle with it.
Firstly; make sure the metal is absolutely clean. Check the tungsten is clean and sharp. Scribe a line on the plate to follow and light an arc on the line and just make a puddle then slowly move it along the line. Do not use filler for now. You should have the gas set to ~6lpm, about 2-3mm arc length and for this, it wont matter if your a bit (a lot) cold, say 80 amps. The push angle should be steeper than 60 degrees but less than 90. Have a few goes at this and then try it with filler. Make a puddle as before but dip the filler rod in out and move the torch a few mm forward and repeat. Don't worry about trying to feed the rod through your hand yet, just hold it and dab it. If the filler balls up then the torch angle is too shallow and the heat is reflecting back up or your feeding the rod from too high up, Almost rest it on the plate and touch the very edge of the puddle with it.
Noods
Member
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Tu Maker..
Will give it a try.. But to be honest very similar to what I've been doing eg torch angle at 70deg etc 2mm away from material..
How should I clean the steel? What I do at mo is go over it with an angle grinder...
On the gas... What is. 61pm?
Tu
Will give it a try.. But to be honest very similar to what I've been doing eg torch angle at 70deg etc 2mm away from material..
How should I clean the steel? What I do at mo is go over it with an angle grinder...
On the gas... What is. 61pm?
Tu
steviec_lj
Rust Welding Professional
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6 litres per minute. Plenty of space in my bin..
malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
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I need to fix that. They use flash at the moment but that isn't supported by mobiles. Need to add fall back formats to support mobiles.
Richard.
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You should not be putting a flow meter on this regulator . For one it's not gonna be much use having a flow meter laying flat and two in theory the pressure on that reg can be rated too high for a flow meter sending that little ball through the roof. Use a tig reg (side entry of course) with fixed pressure (no hand wheel to adjust) then you adjust your flow only from the flow metre.
Wendelspanswick
Member
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The OP already has the regulator in the right plane for a flowmeter and its what I have on my system, the little ball hasn't been sent into orbit yet!
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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Don't forget the triangular tungstens and the useless pieces of glass on the back that break when you put it down heavily
.
Richard.
Member
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I have to ask why? A flow meter fitted to a regulator is done to measure the flow of gas coming out and that flow is adjusted on the flow meter so why the need for a pressure adjuster screw and pressure reading gauge. I am a gas inspector and I know that if that pressure screw is turned up high and the bottle is then turned on it can send that ball flying. Fixed pressure regs are used with flow meters and the only dial you need is the dial to tell u how much gas is in the bottle, the flow meter tells you your gas flow. Fixed pressure regs are fixed so that the risk of overloading that clear plastic tube is safe.
Wendelspanswick
Member
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The maximum pressure I can set on the pressure adjuster is well inside the safe working pressure of the flow meter. I think it's the setup that most people use, you set the pressure adjuster a few litres higher than the maximum flow you will require.
You are using the pressure adjuster as a coarse control and the flow meter adjuster as a fine control.
You are using the pressure adjuster as a coarse control and the flow meter adjuster as a fine control.
