bletchmonster
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- Messages
- 687
- Location
- Cheshire. England.
I like that idea Richard! The tig (my precious) lives on racking well away from the destructive environment of the welding bench, so a remote amperage pendant has definite appeal.
That’s not an amperage pendant on mine. It’s a pot that interferes with the second pot in the pedal.I like that idea Richard! The tig (my precious) lives on racking well away from the destructive environment of the welding bench, so a remote amperage pendant has definite appeal.
Shouldn’t be anything like a grand for a torch and pedal mate.This thread is the reason I'm subbed to this forum. Also have a 230 Tetrix from EWM that I bought few years ago. Would like to try and switch to a new torch like CK one's because multiple reasons. But that requires running a pedal. And a pedal requires to switch to was it 8 contact control plug. I think this whole conversion requires nearly a thousand moneys. And this time I'm not that good with finances. So what is a ballpark for those SCC pedals you mention in this topic? Any place I can see them? Or are they the same ones on ebay for 300ish for EWM? Thanks.
Resurrecting this. PM'dPM replied to. I’ll look into pricing a CK torch for you tomorrow
Link wires J and M in the pedal, not at the plug. I take a link from the leg of the pot J wire and go to the side of the micro-switch that joins the M wire.
J Goes to 10 K pot
C is pot wiper
F Goes to 10 K pot
R and M are connected to the switch
A goes to ground via a high voltage 1000v plus 2.8nF capacitor.
If you've got it right, with multimeter set to ohms and your probes on pins C - F, set the pedal in the up position and your meter will show around 10 K, then with the pedal depressed read Low ohms. Don't worry about the 10 ohms minimum bit, the resistance in the cable and the pot contacts will nearly give that on their own.
EDIT: Had a closer look at my drawing and the link is the key part, do it in the pedal, not the plug.