Bill Edwards
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Only 1 machine has the 110 to 40v transformer.
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Bill Edwards
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OK, some more photos:
The feed to the wire motor is connected to the device on the bottom left of the second photo (showing the side of the PCB that is normally hidden behind the display. I don't know what the device is yet.
Attempts to unscrew the device to see what it written on the other side have so far been unsuccessful do to them swapping to hex key fittings at this point.
Why are such expensive and very capable units put together in such an appalling way?
The feed to the wire motor is connected to the device on the bottom left of the second photo (showing the side of the PCB that is normally hidden behind the display. I don't know what the device is yet.
Attempts to unscrew the device to see what it written on the other side have so far been unsuccessful do to them swapping to hex key fittings at this point.
Why are such expensive and very capable units put together in such an appalling way?
the snooper
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looks like its mounted backwards to me
the snooper
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I think your best bet is to try and get the board powered up then see what you have
penfold
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How so?
the snooper
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the snooper
getting older by the day
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yeah I agree I was simply pointing out what I meant re it being backwards
the snooper
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penfold
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Perhaps they could furnish a circuit diagram.
Bill Edwards
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I wouldn't expect them to be keen on supplying the schematics to one of their products, especially when it's so old, but it shouldn't cost much to try,
Bill Edwards
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I did contact them but haven't received a response yet. I'm not holding my breath.
Meanwhile I've been playing with it again in the hope of sussing it out. I discovered that if you hold the wire inch button it illuminates an LED on the circuit board which appears to be connected to a TLP250. When you hold the button the LED pulses, then after a while it gives an error on the LCD displays. The error reads 'ALL. NOT.'
What could this mean?
I'm convinced there is something it needs in order to send a signal to activate the wire feeder, what what? Any thoughts on what the error is trying to tell me?
I'm very close to just ordering a PWM controller, yet I can't help but think I'm almost able to get this thing working as intended.
Meanwhile I've been playing with it again in the hope of sussing it out. I discovered that if you hold the wire inch button it illuminates an LED on the circuit board which appears to be connected to a TLP250. When you hold the button the LED pulses, then after a while it gives an error on the LCD displays. The error reads 'ALL. NOT.'
What could this mean?
I'm convinced there is something it needs in order to send a signal to activate the wire feeder, what what? Any thoughts on what the error is trying to tell me?
I'm very close to just ordering a PWM controller, yet I can't help but think I'm almost able to get this thing working as intended.
mike 109444
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As these machines were not "proven" as working when you got them, there is the possibility that they are faulty!
That said the "ALL NOT" probable means All Not OK and when working correctly would read ALL _OK" They may drop the letter from that digit for simplicity. When working ok the operator would usually just be use to seeing the "ALL OK" message.
If there is a fault with the motor and the circuit is trying (hence pulsing of LED) to inch the wire and the motor is not being sensed as a load on the circuit then after so many seconds it would report a fault condition. If you can trace the wires from the motor via it's plug, onto the display pcb and to which transistor it is feed by then you can connect a meter to the transistor and see if it is receiving pulses to the input of the transistor and is out putting theses pulses to the motor, If you do find the pulses going into transistor but not out then tranny could be duff, I pulses are coming out to motor then could be faulty motor.
I would imagine that to fool it into thinking it's attached to a welder you would have to short two of the pins of the multi pin socket on rear of box.
A service engineer working on these units would have access to diags that would allow say jumpering pins on the pcb or even pressing and holding a combination of buttons on the control panel which would take it into diags.
That said the "ALL NOT" probable means All Not OK and when working correctly would read ALL _OK" They may drop the letter from that digit for simplicity. When working ok the operator would usually just be use to seeing the "ALL OK" message.
If there is a fault with the motor and the circuit is trying (hence pulsing of LED) to inch the wire and the motor is not being sensed as a load on the circuit then after so many seconds it would report a fault condition. If you can trace the wires from the motor via it's plug, onto the display pcb and to which transistor it is feed by then you can connect a meter to the transistor and see if it is receiving pulses to the input of the transistor and is out putting theses pulses to the motor, If you do find the pulses going into transistor but not out then tranny could be duff, I pulses are coming out to motor then could be faulty motor.
I would imagine that to fool it into thinking it's attached to a welder you would have to short two of the pins of the multi pin socket on rear of box.
A service engineer working on these units would have access to diags that would allow say jumpering pins on the pcb or even pressing and holding a combination of buttons on the control panel which would take it into diags.
Bill Edwards
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Well, just a small update:
The PWM controller is now connected, along with a bridge rectifier. After waiting ages for it to arrive from the far East I was a little unhappy to find it didn't work, so ended up making my own.
Anyway, the motor seems to run nicely off the PWM and I think it'll make a great welder. A Eurotorch is on the way so I can get it all connected up and actually welding, I'll report back when that happens.
I like this big motor with 4 roller wire feed - I'm quite confident that it won't be lacking in power! I'm read to say goodbye to slipping wire rollers, struggling motors, inconsistent feed rates and all the other nasty stuff that cheap welder wire feed mechanisms are plagued with.
It's all looking good.
The PWM controller is now connected, along with a bridge rectifier. After waiting ages for it to arrive from the far East I was a little unhappy to find it didn't work, so ended up making my own.
Anyway, the motor seems to run nicely off the PWM and I think it'll make a great welder. A Eurotorch is on the way so I can get it all connected up and actually welding, I'll report back when that happens.
I like this big motor with 4 roller wire feed - I'm quite confident that it won't be lacking in power! I'm read to say goodbye to slipping wire rollers, struggling motors, inconsistent feed rates and all the other nasty stuff that cheap welder wire feed mechanisms are plagued with.
It's all looking good.
mike 109444
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Bump
Come on Bill how is this going
Come on Bill how is this going
Bill Edwards
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Errr.
Well, errrr...
Not great really.
I got it all set up but it was pretty poor. The wire was slow to start moving and slow to stop, rather than the sudden and instantaneous response you want when you pull the trigger.
I installed a capacitor and a MOSFET to improve things, but I don't think this is (or can) work in conjunction with PWM control, so need to replace that with a rheostat. Thing is, I don't have one handy and have become disheartened with the whole thing right now, as to make things worse the torch is rubbish.
It's a Parweld one and the trigger broke (got it fixed though) but somehow I think the wire is jamming in the torch making things even worse.
Perhaps with a good torch and the PWM controller in the bin it'll work, but I'm reluctant to fork out on a suitable rheostat to then find it's still not very good to weld with. They seem quite expensive, and I'm also not sure which one I actually need for this motor, as I have no specs for it other than the maximum voltage.
Well, errrr...
Not great really.
I got it all set up but it was pretty poor. The wire was slow to start moving and slow to stop, rather than the sudden and instantaneous response you want when you pull the trigger.
I installed a capacitor and a MOSFET to improve things, but I don't think this is (or can) work in conjunction with PWM control, so need to replace that with a rheostat. Thing is, I don't have one handy and have become disheartened with the whole thing right now, as to make things worse the torch is rubbish.
It's a Parweld one and the trigger broke (got it fixed though) but somehow I think the wire is jamming in the torch making things even worse.
Perhaps with a good torch and the PWM controller in the bin it'll work, but I'm reluctant to fork out on a suitable rheostat to then find it's still not very good to weld with. They seem quite expensive, and I'm also not sure which one I actually need for this motor, as I have no specs for it other than the maximum voltage.
mike 109444
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Think you almost need to dare I say it ...look at the SIP section to see how people have modded there SIP's power supply including motor braking. Think what is happening is your supply is initial dipping when loaded, then rising to the set voltage hence the slow start. Could be the supply is under rated. You could look at how other makes of mig feed/control there wire feed motor. Problem there is that lots of them don't give circuit diagrams of there pcb's but the pcb's that that have been posted on here have looked quite basic circuits even the better welders.
