First arc welding result

[8ob]

Yeah, I try to clear off the slags with the welding hammer and wire brush, before putting anther layer of welding on.
I practiced laying down many straight beads on mild steel before welding the cast iron.

The welded cast iron was preheated with torch before welding too.

Arche have you been practising on handrails by any chance?

I think there is way to much build up on that repair now to know whether its taken or not. I think you would be better off attacking it with a grinder and prepping it again with the view to welding it with some suitable rods.

Bob

 

[Rrobson]

I would be very dubious of the strength of that repair. Just because it survived a drop onto the floor doesn’t determine strength. The more weld you put on there the worse it is going to be.
6013’s are a terrible rod to use for this. It will likely hold but it’s far from strong. The areas around the weld will be very weak and likely to break. You’ve dilated the base metal so much now in the area around the repair, you’d have to cut so much out it won’t properly repair.
I wouldn’t do anything else now other than stand to the side while I’m using it…

 

[Arche]

That is with 3 layers of weld. The 1st weld had some gaps with little weld beads, and 2nd weld was an attempt to fill the gaps.
The 3rd weld was attempt to fill the gaps and holes. It had been attacked with the grinder trying to flatten it down and make it smoother. But it turned out like that.
The same procedures were applied to the under side as well. But it had not been cleaned with the grinder.

If it breaks again, then will try to weld it again. But for now, it seems holding up ok. It is the base of an old hand crank drill. The drill is about 15 kg in weight.

 

[roofman]

I hate to disappoint the purists but i have a pillar drill which had a top pulley bracket snap in half, i welded it out of desperation with 0.8 mig wire at 160A using argoshield light and its still intact today

 

[northwest]

I felt that 6013 rod seems tough after welding. Took some time to grind with angle grinder fitted with sand paper pad to the photos shown.

What sort of angle grinder do you have? Do you mean a flap wheel?

 

[Arche]

What sort of angle grinder do you have? Do you mean a flap wheel?

It is an ALDI angle grinder with 125mm sanding disk I used. Got it for £19.95.

 

[Arche]

I hate to disappoint the purists but i have a pillar drill which had a top pulley bracket snap in half, i welded it out of desperation with 0.8 mig wire at 160A using argoshield light and its still intact today

I have no worries on the weld will break. But it looks quite ugly the way it is, even after much grinding.
Was trying to make it more solid metal surface to emerge, but it came up with flux surrounded irregular shape of beads. Maybe will have to paint over it.
The underneath is OK as not visible until flip over.

 

[God mode restorations]

That looks like the base off a union hand drill. That would be cast iron. For my repairs of cast iron I use a nickel rod and cold cast weld it. Had good strong results. Just don't weld where you need to drill a hole as it's almost impossible to drill

 

[Arche]

That looks like the base off a union hand drill. That would be cast iron. For my repairs of cast iron I use a nickel rod and cold cast weld it. Had good strong results. Just don't weld where you need to drill a hole as it's almost impossible to drill

I am not sure what make of the pillar drill it is. Bought it from eBay many year ago, and it arrived in broken pieces. It has been lying in the shed for years. There are more parts to weld after this.
I am using it also part of my welding practice, because it is missing some parts as well. Not sure if the parts are available now.

If the weld of 6013 breaks, then will get either nickel rods or 7018 next time.

 

[roblane65]

People can you tube as much as they like and then still not have a go . Right or wrong good or bad you've had a go and that's good in my book
you'll never learn if you don't try .

 

[Arche]

Close up view of the weld on top of the plate.

 

[Maker]

125mm sanding disk I used

That's the problem, a proper grinding disc or flap wheel will do a much better job of taking material off.

 

[Arche]

That's the problem, a proper grinding disc or flap wheel will do a much better job of taking material off.

Some internet sources on welding says that too much / over grinding will weaken the joins, so I didn't go over board with the grinding.
Just flattening and smoothening for better looking surface was aimed, but wasn't successful.
The priority was strong joins rather than looks, because gradually I will try to restore the pillar drill and make into a usable tool even if it looks not great.
The missing part is the chuck - which has non standard size of threads. But will try to source it, or even cut one myself with tap and dye set.

 

[God mode restorations]

Some internet sources on welding says that too much / over grinding will weaken the joins, so I didn't go over board with the grinding.
Just flattening and smoothening for better looking surface was aimed, but wasn't successful.
The priority was strong joins rather than looks, because gradually I will try to restore the pillar drill and make into a usable tool even if it looks not great.
The missing part is the chuck - which has non standard size of threads. But will try to source it, or even cut one myself with tap and dye set.

They used a lot of different thread combinations on those type drills. I have restored a few of them. Some have a MT taper on them. The quill come in a variety of lengths to.

 

[God mode restorations]

One of the union drills I restored. This particular one drilling some holes

 

[Arche]

Very nice.

 

[Arche]

Welded another broken pillar drill (also arrived broken into pieces).

 

[Arche]

Preheating changed part of the cast iron colour into light brown.