First go of Stainless Tig Welding, Advice please.

[joeeng]

I do find the r-tech wp26 torch a bit cumbersome to use and the flex seems quite rigid.

 

[Richard.]

Ah I see. Well Id probably use more current than you did and actually weld on the thick round and get some filler onto it then just wash it down onto the box. The thing that makes that trickier is your welding on the cut edge of the box so yes I can see why you've burnt it away. I done a few bits this morning 8-2 plate and took some pics/conditions but they wouldn't be any good for what your doing. The trick is not letting the arc focus on the box but washing the added filler from the solid onto the box. Easier to show than explain.

 

[Richard.]

You could make that much easier for yourself with a little change in design. Which can allow you to use much lower current near the cut edge of the box. Take a look.

 

[joeeng]

Good idea Richard on the re-design, I am currently just following previous plans made by someone else, but I think the next batch I make I will do the way you suggest. I will see if I can find some scraps to have a try with at the weekend.

thanks again.

 

[joeeng]

Ok didnt get the free time to practice at the weekend, but I had a hour free tonight. Last time I was using the works R-tech 160amp ac/dc tig set.


Tonight was the first time Ive had my own welder setup R-tech 210mp Digital ac/dc tig set with wp26 torch.


Practicing on scrap bits of 2mm stainless 316/316L plate and 2mm box section


So I started out with the standard DC quick start mode on the welder and set at 40amps. 2.4mm tungsten, No 8 cup, 7lpm Gas Flow

The arc started nicely and was steady and the metal puddled quite quickly.


In little the time practicing I learnt a few things and errors that I was making:

• Travel speed = way too slow and cooking the metal.
• I had too much angle on the torch at times and inconsistent arc length
• Struggled with adding filler (2mm rod): my technique i was holding filler rod too high, also because of incorrect torch angle filler rod was balling up before i got it near the puddle.
• Weld path not straight (I find the r-tech wp26 torch cumbersome and the cable flex quite rigid which sometimes restricted my movement. I spent time trying different ways of laying the flex on my lap and trying different grip positions when holding the torch.

I decided that I would try a smaller tungsten and filler rod so went to a 1.6mm tungsten and 1mm filler rod.


I found this gave me good control and learning from my earlier errors helped. but now I wanted to work on the issue of too much heat, as I noticed some of my welds looked like they had been stick welded from the reverse side there was that much heat lol. so I increased my speed probably by double at least (I was going slow originally) this helped a lot and I was sort of getting the knack of feeding the filler in.


I thought I would try dropping the amps to 30.

This took a little longer to puddle initially but did produce a lot less heat and the reverse side of the weld looked smooth with only discoloration and no slag/deformation to the surface.


By the end of it I felt I was learning and slowly improving my technique from the mistakes I was making and would of liked to have done more but they were the only few scraps I had.



I would like to ask at first when adding filler I was holding the rod too high but also i was dabbing it in a up and down motion into the puddle. i was having a few issues with the filler rod balling up on the end. I then held the rod at the shallowest angle possible and fed the in and out of the pool edge. at that say 15 degree angle rather than up and down. which technique is correct? I am guessing the latter but only because it seemed to work better for me.


I am enjoying the learning curve and at the minute my goal is to achieve consistency

any advice welcome regarding my settings, technique etc.

 

[eSCHEn]

Your coking on the back is because you need a purge of argon to shield it.

It's called sugaring. For practise don't worry about it

Looking better mate. Keeping it cool is key. It's a lovely metal to manipulate isn't it? ^_^

 

[joeeng]

Your coking on the back is because you need a purge of argon to shield it.

It's called sugaring. For practise don't worry about it

Looking better mate. Keeping it cool is key. It's a lovely metal to manipulate isn't it? ^_^

Cheers for the advice, lol yeah I "manipulated" it so much I couldn't try any butt welds. I never knew about purging sheet thought it was only tube that needed purging, how is best to set up a purge on sheet??

I was a bit gutted I ran out of scraps as I was really getting into it and enjoying it, Also my new gas lens arrived today, so will have a play with this at the weekend.

Thanks again

 

[Brad93]

40 amps on a 2.4mm tungsten is a bit low to get a stable arc particularly on an R Tech, so you done the right thing changing to a 1.6mm. If possible I would also use 1.6 filler on that thin sheet. The 2mm filler will be chilling the pool excessively the 1mm probably not enough

 

[Brad93]

Don't set up a purge just clamp the sheet to a chill block to stop the backside of the weld having lots of access to the atmosphere at high temperature. It won't be perfect but it will do for practice. Purging sheet for practice beads will just be wasting money.

 

[joeeng]

40 amps on a 2.4mm tungsten is a bit low to get a stable arc particularly on an R Tech, so you done the right thing changing to a 1.6mm. If possible I would also use 1.6 filler on that thin sheet. The 2mm filler will be chilling the pool excessively the 1mm probably not enough

Cheers Brad, I will give that a try, to be honest i did also find the 1mm wasnt lasting to long, I was having to feed in quite quickly. I will give the 1.6mm a go and see if that helps me.

I have a nice block of aluminium that I can use as a heat sink for welding the stainless sheet, I will give this a go at the weekend.


Thanks