Fitting an Auto drain vale to my compressor

[harryb94]

What about using something like fuel tank sealant to coat the inside of the tank to stop it from rusting?

 

[MattF]

The problem with using coatings is that if it gets even a pin prick in the coating, it starts holding moisture and seems to exacerbate corrosion.

 

[CompoSimmonite]

My auto drain came from China this morning. Must admit very impressed with quality.

 

[SmartWerks]

Good timing, I'll be getting a pair of these

 

[normspanners]

I have a couple of production made compressors here, that have them fitted and they are fitted up by the pump.
I bought couple of those and fitted one to my mates ingersol rand machine worked a treat.

 

[CompoSimmonite]

How do people wire up their auto drains ?
The method I am considering is parallel with motor so the auto drain only works when motor running

 

[Woody.v8]

How do people wire up their auto drains ?
The method I am considering is parallel with motor so the auto drain only works when motor running

I have mine on a 13 amp plug at the minute but i'm fitting another 2 auto drains, One on the lowest run of the radial main and the other on the Dryer bypass water trap so I will be thinking something up.
I will probably just wire all 3 to the isolator so when the compressors got a feed so have the auto drains, For my setup I want the drains powered up for more time than just when the motor is running as sometimes the pump doesn't kick in much with 400L of air built up.

 

[TurtleDude]

If you don't want to waste money losing air when discharging condensate, don't buy 1990's solenoid drains, stump up a bit more and get a 'no-loss' drain.

 

[MattF]

How does a no loss drain work?

 

[TurtleDude]

How does a no loss drain work?

In crude terms, a bit like a revolving door in a supermarket, or like those hotel lobby's with two sets of doors. The first set are open to let the condensate in, then when a level is reached to trigger an 'ejection', the upper set close and the lower door is opened to eject the condensate. Carp analogy really but you get my drift. It saves having a timed drain open for longer than necessary (say in winter) letting your valuable compressed air escape long after the condensate has been flushed out. Not many people crawl around in the floor adjusting their solenoid drains as the seasons change. Hence the waste. It's reckoned a no loss drain pays for itself in about a year. If you're a light user or your coppressor this will be a much longer payback.

 

[Woody.v8]

In crude terms, a bit like a revolving door in a supermarket, or like those hotel lobby's with two sets of doors. The first set are open to let the condensate in, then when a level is reached to trigger an 'ejection', the upper set close and the lower door is opened to eject the condensate. Carp analogy really but you get my drift. It saves having a timed drain open for longer than necessary (say in winter) letting your valuable compressed air escape long after the condensate has been flushed out. Not many people crawl around in the floor adjusting their solenoid drains as the seasons change. Hence the waste. It's reckoned a no loss drain pays for itself in about a year. If you're a light user or your coppressor this will be a much longer payback.

Do you have a link to one?

Edit: found one

 

[TurtleDude]

These are the people who make them, usually in the colours or one or other compressor manufacturer, as in your link. You should be able to get hold of a BE31 (the smallest) for under a hundred bones.

http://www.beko-technologies.co.uk/products/condensate-drainage/bekomat/advantages/

 

[normspanners]

A few years ago I had thought about using a normally open solenoid valve direct onto the receiver for the condensate/ oil etc to go through and into a stainless pipe under the receiver with the cheapo timed N.C. valve at the end, so that when the NC valve gets its signal to open so does the N.O. one to close, then the actual drain can be open for longer. The main condensate will be blasted out by the air in the pipe at 10bar this should keep the orifices clean, allowing the rest to dribble out. This has two advantages the condensate is kept in a none corrosive vessel awaiting drainage, and limits air loss.

 

[ronan]

If you don't want to waste money losing air when discharging condensate, don't buy 1990's solenoid drains, stump up a bit more and get a 'no-loss' drain.

I've been looking at these no-loss drains online, ebay etc. They all seem to be over 300 notes. Am i seeing right , are they that expensive ?

 

[brightspark]

dunno how ive managed for the last 40 years without buying one of those i have a few comps and never paid more than 80 quid for any of them even if i got one given i wouldnt bother fitting it

 

[dannyp]

am going to fit one of those purgeing valves to mine the 20 quid ebay jobbies, only because its a twerp to get at and the manual one has broken and leacks now, but i get quite a lot of condensate in it, probaly comeing from the other compressor

 

[ronan]

dunno how ive managed for the last 40 years without buying one of those i have a few comps and never paid more than 80 quid for any of them even if i got one given i wouldnt bother fitting it

I know what you mean, but my compressor is locked away in a hut outside and i know i won't be bothered draining it if its raining out, but for less than 20 squid i would fit one, but 3 ton ? The compressor didn't cost me that, in fact it didn't cost me anything