yes it was second hand so I cant even assume it was stock firmware. Well its not anyway as its TH3D marlin version.To continue on from that thread, did you say the ender3 arrived with the bl touch already fitted?
If so, I think its already configured with the appropriate mesh values stored in the firmware of the printer, and the last step you have to do is to tell the slicer to use them with a G28 & a G29 in the custom start gcode section.
ie:
G28 ; home all axis
G29 ; retrieve bed mesh values from firmware.
Here's the same in klipper, its easier to see because klipper stores the config in plain text, not in the eprom of the printer but its a automatically generated probe map of the bed stored in config, and g29 would trigger this to be used.
View attachment 465262
Here's the gui representation also (you can see easily my bed has a bad crown of 0.5mm in the center because of how it was shipped but I'm replacing it anyway).
View attachment 465264
Marlin does the same, its just more difficult to see because all the info is stored in the printer firmware and hidden away.
My experience with marlin and bltouch is once it’s fitted and the relevant changes to marlin are in place the slicer doesn’t need to know bltouch is installed as marlin sorts that for you. The only changes in the slicer for me are some filaments require a different Z offset for them to print correctly, which can be changed in the slicer and stored as a different profile so I have one profile for pla and one for petg with different Z offsets.Marlin does the same, its just more difficult to see because all the info is stored in the printer firmware and hidden away.
My main.worry is the speed it's printing. It's insanely slow.My experience with marlin and bltouch is once it’s fitted and the relevant changes to marlin are in place the slicer doesn’t need to know bltouch is installed as marlin sorts that for you. The only changes in the slicer for me are some filaments require a different Z offset for them to print correctly, which can be changed in the slicer and stored as a different profile so I have one profile for pla and one for petg with different Z offsets.
but the Y axis motor makes a sound like a duck at higher speeds
print layer1 insanely slow to get a good first layer for adhesion
I already have an ender 3 that's is not ballistic but bearable.Without turning my computer on to check the value that’s how mine is set, possibly 25% of the set speed for the first layer only. Since enabling that I don’t think I’ve have a print fail. But print time does increase but not as slow as @ukracer short video
Please report ALL the posts you want moved and tell us where to put them.Just trying to separate a thread.
Hopefully the mods could transfer the relevant sections if one gets a few minutes spare?
Ok woz thanks..Please report ALL the posts you want moved and tell us where to put them.
Thanks.
Yes, its well documented as being caused by the creality stock stepper drivers, even their later silent motherboards aren't silent (because this is running one of the latest version stm32 "silent" boards). I have 2 different model steppers and probably will change the mainboard and drivers soon.It also depends on what stepper drivers are fitted to the main board. With the originals installed on mine it was loud enough for me have it in a different room and keep the door shut when it was printing, after changing the mainboard and steppers the loudest thing on it is the fan on the power supply
Yep I will jump on computer now.Yes, its well documented as being caused by the creality stock stepper drivers, even their later silent motherboards aren't silent (because this is running one of the latest version stm32 "silent" boards). I have 2 different model steppers and probably will change the mainboard and drivers soon.
ukracer, I looked at that file and compared it to something I sliced myself and printed recently, and the F numbers once its past the brim are lower, maybe half the value. Could you post up the sliced gcode given with the printer that prints at normal speed for a comparison to what it should look like since I'm not comparing like with like using my own sliced file for a different printer as a comparison.
Are the dimensions for the x and y axis correct on what you have managed to print.God knows what can be wrong with the ender 3 Max
Yes they are. I used the gcode I sliced in Cura that prints perfect on my Ender 3, on the Ender 3 Max.Are the dimensions for the x and y axis correct on what you have managed to print.
On the info screen for marlin is it showing 100% for speed when printing?