- Thread starter ukracer
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No same profile.
I found out more this morning.
I used the file from.my ender 3 on the Max direct in the card slot.
I also found some hardware issues but it printed at the correct speed etc. Height was still out but I am.currently adjust the bed and tightening screws etc as the x axis only has one stepper. It moves way too.much. I think.i.will.add another stepper and screw at a later date.
I think the speed thing is an issue with octoprint so I will.investigate but busy today.
No.it didn't.
carbon
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I never got on with octoprint as it kept stopping the printer mid print so I only print from sd cards.
It should do, so it could be an octoprint thing
When I used octoprint with my printrbot, it was always dead reliable, stopping mid print probably meant whatever device you ran octoprint on had a hardware issue and the serial port went away. I used a beaglebone black as the octoprint host, and they are known for stability.
Also when I turned up the speed on octoprint mid print the stepper motor noise changed pitch and it went faster.
I'll try to look at the files side by side tonight see if anything obvious jumps out. Did you ever do a M503 to read the settings out the firmware too? maybe it has something mad going on with the microstepping config and different stepper motors that will show up there.
Also when I turned up the speed on octoprint mid print the stepper motor noise changed pitch and it went faster.
I'll try to look at the files side by side tonight see if anything obvious jumps out. Did you ever do a M503 to read the settings out the firmware too? maybe it has something mad going on with the microstepping config and different stepper motors that will show up there.
Well currently it's printing a file from the SD card after I sorted some hardware adjustments. Looks very good so far.
I am.guessing that sort of rules out firmware issues?
The main issue I have is is the perennial one of z height. Lol
I think.Marlin requires something in the congig so you can adjust the z height and save it. (I can't on the ender 3 with plain.marlin.)
The Ender 3 max has BL Touch and despite watching no end of videos not one of them makes mention of needing to add lines of code to any files.
I have spent hours today and I simply can't print on the Max without using tune and adjusting Z height before the print itself starts.
carbon
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You should be able to add the Z value in your slicer rather than manually adjusting it before each print, like I mentioned before I have different values for the Z for different filament.
It is possible to change the Z offset value in marlin by reflashing the firmware with the relevant Z value included. But I don’t think it’s possible to download the firmware from the printer and modify the value, which would mean configuring marlin and this could cause more issues if you.
I printed a container for my insulin yesterday. Looked OK as it was printing but using cheap PLA it did not stick to bed well. Warped in fact.
Also not adhering well in layers.
I plan on using known PLA to double check.
I am.leaving sorting Octoprint out until later as I am happy the printer it's self is fine and just needs tuning and testing with a known filament. And I can do that while sorting my roof.
Just need a couple of printers running so I can knock out some Gridfinity storage boxes and frames.
Also not adhering well in layers.
I plan on using known PLA to double check.
I am.leaving sorting Octoprint out until later as I am happy the printer it's self is fine and just needs tuning and testing with a known filament. And I can do that while sorting my roof.
Just need a couple of printers running so I can knock out some Gridfinity storage boxes and frames.
To be clear here, the bl touch IS the actual z homing switch, so if it doesnt probe the bed with the bltouch it never sets the home value and it could be anything. You can set a offset from a value until you've homed a axis to know what the value to offset from actually is but your spinning the wheel of chance that its going to be right, and it wont be repeatable. Leading to odd prints, poor bed adhesion etc.
I think the slicer needs to be told to home in the startup code, and then it will make a file with the g28/g29 in the header to trigger off marlin's homing sequence (which sounds like its already set up well).
You dont need to reflash marlin to adjust the Z height offset, you can do it with m codes directly sent to the printer, then try it, then send a second m code to store the value in eprom for saving. There's guides on the net how to do this.
You can get a marlin printer to output its config which includes offsets and step values etc, unless its been disabled at compile time. Again the link to marlin's documentation. https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M503.html
The reason it specifies it may or may not be the same as those stored in the EEPROM is because you can apply settings to test, then if you power cycle, the settings are lost unless you commit them with a m500.
Before I put klipper on my ender, just as a example I had the titan aero direct driver working with stock firmware, and used the mcodes to adjust the microsteps for the extrusion as its completely different to the stock ender bowden drive extruder.
I've been flat out on daughters car engine out (just came in to order some bits and a coffee!), but I'll try to look at the files tonight.
This is the first tutorial I used.
I sort of follow the sequence but as you say it probably needs the G28 or G29 as when I added that in octoprint it did at least print at the correct height.
I tried to steer clear of doing that as per @ajlelectronics. advice as I agree it would be better in the firmware. I will use it temp and see if it decks it.
I have been adjusting and saving z offsets a hell of a lot of times. But I think some of it is me following steps BUT not fully understanding the process . I think I do but probably don't. Lol ( it's not unusual for me to have this brain fade recently)
I will try outputting marlin config later.
It will be useful as I really need to tell marlin on my Ender 3 to store the baby steps as I am sure saving is turned off as no matter what I do , I have to reset baby steps to the same value But despite saving settings it never saves.
ajlelectronics
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Remind me where you are, Kidd? I just may feel the need to drop by on the 'bike when we have a nice day again.
Kidderminster...lolRemind me where you are, Kidd? I just may feel the need to drop by on the 'bike when we have a nice day again.
As the printer was running TH3D previously and it was two years out of date I thought I would pay for the newer version. BUT it appears that I then have to pay extra for technical support as they dont include documentation
This is the part that is confusing me.
/**
* BLTouch/CRTouch
*
* If you want to use the BLTouch/CRTouch uncomment the BLTOUCH line below.
* You also need then enter in your sensor offsets below in the CUSTOM PROBE section.
*
* There are 2 ways to connect the BL Touch to the V4.2.X boards - All on the 5 pin header or using 3 pins on the 5 pin header + Z Endstop port
* For details on these 2 types of connections refer to our help center article here: https://support.th3dstudio.com/helpcenter/creality-v4-2-2-v4-2-7-board-bl-touch-wiring-options/
* If you are using the 5 pin header for all the BL Touch connections, uncomment the BLTOUCH_ON_5PIN line
*
* If you need to change your SERVO pin you can change that with the SERVO0_PIN Line below. Most people do NOT need to change/set this.
*/
#define BLTOUCH
//#define SERVO0_PIN PA13
//#define BLTOUCH_ON_5PIN
/**
* Custom Probe Offset - EZABL/BLTouch/CRTouch
* Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).
*
* In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:
*
* #define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 10, 10, 0 }
*
* +-- BACK ---+
* | |
* L | (+) P | R <-- probe (10,10)
* E | | I
* F | (-) N (+) | G <-- nozzle (0,0)
* T | | H
* | (-) | T
* | |
* O-- FRONT --+
* (0,0)
*
* Specify a Probe position as { X, Y, Z }
* Do NOT enter an number for the Z position in here. Store your offset in EEPROM.
*
* When is the offset POSITIVE?
* If the probe is right of the nozzle the offset on X is POSITIVE
* If the probe is behind of the nozzle the offset on Y is POSITIVE
*
* When is the offset NEGATIVE?
* If the probe is left of the nozzle the offset on X is NEGATIVE
* If the probe is in front of the nozzle the offset on Y is NEGATIVE
*/
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 10, 10, 0 }
#endif*
* If you have a probe mount that is not pre-setup in the firmware then uncomment
* the CUSTOM_PROBE option (or BLTOUCH if using one) above and enter your probe offsets below
*/
#if ANY(CUSTOM_PROBE, BLTOUCH)
/**
What bit of it is confusing? There's only one of those lines actually doing anything, the rest are all comments.
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 10, 10, 0 }
This just sets the offset in the XY plane between the extruder and the probe, so that the firmware knows how close to the edge of the bed it can probe without the probe missing the bed completely as its offset from the nozzle
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 10, 10, 0 }
This just sets the offset in the XY plane between the extruder and the probe, so that the firmware knows how close to the edge of the bed it can probe without the probe missing the bed completely as its offset from the nozzle
Well after compiling the firmware.
Flashing it and then going to auto home the x and y goes to home. But the Z axis does not move at all.
The fact there are actually two offsets is also confusing .
Plus this
* Specify a Probe position as { X, Y, Z }
* Do NOT enter an number for the Z position in here. Store your offset in EEPROM.
ajlelectronics
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As I keep on saying! The Z offset is stored in the machine's configuration EEprom, not the Gcode.
This is a bit more useful...... my issue currently is that the z does not home no matter what I do with the latest firmware.
Whats really annoying is I cant read the configs from the firmware that was in the printer when I got it..
This is a link to my configuration.h
Dropbox
www.dropbox.com
Using this I can not home Z at all even using motion home Z
