ajlelectronics
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You don't need to do any of that. Load the correct firmware for BL touch and then set the parameters in the machine's control panel, then store them when happy.
- Thread starter ukracer
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You don't need to do any of that. Load the correct firmware for BL touch and then set the parameters in the machine's control panel, then store them when happy.
It would have been useful just to get the original offsets as a starting point because it could start printing files that had been sliced with a homing gcode sucessfully, but sounds like that ship sailed already.
I am not aware how to do that to be honest. I have the previous firmware used by previous owner that I "assume" was used. (he gave it me on a flash drive.
I Think I sort of knew that. But whats not happening now is the Z does not move at all.
Its never printed well but yes I paid 20 dollars for what I thought was firmware already configures for the BL Touch and access to the facebook group.
Its also 2 years newer so I thought it might have improved.
Whats really annoying is you have to pay another 30 dollars to get any sort of reply from TH3D so I wont be making the same mistake next time
The firmware doesnt store the offsets etc, they are stored in a separate bit of the machines eprom and that's why you can edit them without reflashing or compiling marlin every time by connecting to the printer and sending it the appropriate mcodes. But as the install instructions from the th3d site for their firmware say to wipe the eprom from the machine panel to remove any leftover config from a earlier firmware (rightly so), then if you followed their instructions all the config stored in there is gone.
I think I'm running the marlin firmware on the printrbot I put on in 2017 to support extra extruders and I never bothered updating it because it just worked and did what was asked from it.
When I shifted my firmware on the ender5 plus to klipper, the sonicpad profile they supplied tried to reflash the printer with the 8 bit atmel cpu firmware, but I took the board cover off and it had a stm32 32bit chip instead. Lots of people on reddit tried to tell me that the plus only came with the atmel, but I ignored them and went with believing my own eyes instead and ended up using a ender5-pro stm32 version firmware and adjusting the config where it differed to the plus. I'm mentioning this, because it might be worth popping off the motherboard cover and verifying which chip is on the board because I believe they went 8bit->32bit for the ender3 series too. And its a different firmware needed.
I think I'm running the marlin firmware on the printrbot I put on in 2017 to support extra extruders and I never bothered updating it because it just worked and did what was asked from it.
When I shifted my firmware on the ender5 plus to klipper, the sonicpad profile they supplied tried to reflash the printer with the 8 bit atmel cpu firmware, but I took the board cover off and it had a stm32 32bit chip instead. Lots of people on reddit tried to tell me that the plus only came with the atmel, but I ignored them and went with believing my own eyes instead and ended up using a ender5-pro stm32 version firmware and adjusting the config where it differed to the plus. I'm mentioning this, because it might be worth popping off the motherboard cover and verifying which chip is on the board because I believe they went 8bit->32bit for the ender3 series too. And its a different firmware needed.
This is about upgrading the board between the two versions, but you can see chipsets etc in the screenshots.
www.crosslink.io
Ender 3 (Pro) Upgrade – Creality 4.2.7 mainboard
The first 1000 people to use the link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: Get the Ender 3 Pro here: Get the Creality 4.2.7 board here: Daniel Crosslink, welcome back to the …
www.crosslink.io
Mine is 32 bit. I just refuses to do anything if its 8 bit. I have compiled the firmware 3 times now. I get the same actions every time. Is says BL touch ready on the LCD. It homes x and Y correctly but Z just sits there. Using the wizard just sits there after its homed the x and then the Y. I will reflash with the old firmware as |I still have it saved.
Sounds like It could be a issue with the bl touch then. I had this when my first cr touch was faulty, the machine moved the z axis a little to give clearance, homed x then y, then failed at the z homing and just sat there doing nothing instead of popping out (down) for action.
I had a bad sensor and it wasn't extending on command, I had to wait for a new one impatiently.
Dumb question, but have you tried flicking the sensor with a fingernail or tapping it on top with a allen key or something after its completed the xy homing and starting to do the z? they do have a rep for sticking...
I will say I dont think there's anything wrong with the bltouch itself, because on the other firmware you could probe with it and it worked but its always worth trying the silly fix first.
I had a bad sensor and it wasn't extending on command, I had to wait for a new one impatiently.
Dumb question, but have you tried flicking the sensor with a fingernail or tapping it on top with a allen key or something after its completed the xy homing and starting to do the z? they do have a rep for sticking...
I will say I dont think there's anything wrong with the bltouch itself, because on the other firmware you could probe with it and it worked but its always worth trying the silly fix first.
yes mate. It goes up and down and retracts and stows on demand. Interestingly I have just reflashed with firmware-v4_BLT_5.1.bin this is from the guy who I purchased it from. It is now back to the same as it was when I had it. Z now moves up and down and its much closer to the bed. So I am almost certain the hard ware is working ok.. I am assuming that the BLT in the file I used should be for the BLTouch arther than bacon lettuce and Tomato. lol
It these vids show what's going on you can call.me a thick ×÷=//_
Dropbox
www.dropbox.com
Just for info the nozzle was higher but I used z height to lower it and it maxed out at 10......
I went creality's site, because they offer downloads of firmware, and for the bltouch kit, there's some interesting info :
www.creality3dofficial.com
if you click downloads, you end up on their gdrive here :
drive.google.com
And in the installation manual, it runs through probing the bed, saving it in the firmware, then states "change the g28 to g28,g29 in cura machine start up settings once that's done...
This review caught my eye too:
"Everything else was pretty straight forward: Installed firmware using ultimaker cura 4.5 thru the USB Port, setting the Z-offset, adding in some additional code to the GCode when slicing."
Think we're full circle here?
Download the manual, it has a great guide on how to set and save the z offset you need to setup now
BL Touch Auto Bed Leveling Sensor For Ender Series
The Creality BLTouch is the latest version. BL Touch works for Creality Ender3 V2/Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro/Ender 3 Max/Ender5/Ender5 Pro with 32-bit V4.2.2/4.2.7 mainboard.
BL/CR TOUCH Manual – Google Drive
drive.google.com
And in the installation manual, it runs through probing the bed, saving it in the firmware, then states "change the g28 to g28,g29 in cura machine start up settings once that's done...
This review caught my eye too:
"Everything else was pretty straight forward: Installed firmware using ultimaker cura 4.5 thru the USB Port, setting the Z-offset, adding in some additional code to the GCode when slicing."
Think we're full circle here?
Download the manual, it has a great guide on how to set and save the z offset you need to setup now
I think you need to add the g29 to the slicer next, and I dont think it makes you thick missing this if it is the fix, because its bloody complicated to work out & understand why.
But on the plus side, you probably have a really good understanding of homing and stuff now.
Sadly that was exactly what I was doing. LOL The issue I have is that the lowering of the Z to provide the offset does not allow it to go low enough. It maxes out at 10mm but thats not low enough to reach the bed. BUT there is no more adjustment!I went creality's site, because they offer downloads of firmware, and for the bltouch kit, there's some interesting info :
if you click downloads, you end up on their gdrive here :BL Touch Auto Bed Leveling Sensor For Ender Series
The Creality BLTouch is the latest version. BL Touch works for Creality Ender3 V2/Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro/Ender 3 Max/Ender5/Ender5 Pro with 32-bit V4.2.2/4.2.7 mainboard.
BL/CR TOUCH Manual – Google Drive
And in the installation manual, it runs through probing the bed, saving it in the firmware, then states "change the g28 to g28,g29 in cura machine start up settings once that's done...
View attachment 466242
This review caught my eye too:
"Everything else was pretty straight forward: Installed firmware using ultimaker cura 4.5 thru the USB Port, setting the Z-offset, adding in some additional code to the GCode when slicing."
Think we're full circle here?
Download the manual, it has a great guide on how to set and save the z offset you need to setup now
Not a good understanding as I cant work out why its not letting me go low enough. But I reckon the offset will be 7.65 when I finally work out how to get it low enough.
looking at your video, you have offset set to -10 in the config at the end, that moves the nozzle 10mm away from the bed.
To move the nozzle closer to the bed, use positive coordinates, e.g. M206Z10 to move the nozzle 10mm closer to the print bed.
I would issue a G0 Z50, and check the gap between the bed and nozzle is 50mm, and then alter the offset, and move it G0 Z55, then back to G0 Z50 to check it, this should stop you ramming the hotend into the bed damaging it while getting it near.
To move the nozzle closer to the bed, use positive coordinates, e.g. M206Z10 to move the nozzle 10mm closer to the print bed.
I would issue a G0 Z50, and check the gap between the bed and nozzle is 50mm, and then alter the offset, and move it G0 Z55, then back to G0 Z50 to check it, this should stop you ramming the hotend into the bed damaging it while getting it near.
I am still.lost where I actually issue these commands?
Whilst I am using the Zoffset the manual says to bring the nozzle down until just a piece of paper fits. But To do that I need to lower the z and if I turn it to.positive the nozzle raises.
I would like to say I am following the instructions from the creality site to the letter, but as the menu options are not identical I need to guess which options they transpose to.
Sorry I'm used to setting up firmware by gcode directly to the printer. Its probably simpler to do it via the menus.
To go back to basics, you've done this (with a sd card in the printer at the time apparently for it to work):
And tweaked the rotary knob moving the z up and down until the nozzle just nips some paper between it and bed once it stops the auto home.
Then you have come out, and ran the bed levelling routine as per the earlier screenshot
Then finally you have saved settings.
These are not taken from my printer ofc, I dont have a 3, I remember having to change the offset on mine when I first got it as the hotend I put on from new is a different length than the one the printer was shipped with. But I connected the printer directly with terminal emulation software (minicom under linux) and did it via gcode because that's what I was used to. You could do same with pronterface, octoprint has a gcode terminal you can use, or I think cura or prusa have similar functionality somewhere. But I think its easier to use the gui, I'm just used to using command line.
To go back to basics, you've done this (with a sd card in the printer at the time apparently for it to work):
And tweaked the rotary knob moving the z up and down until the nozzle just nips some paper between it and bed once it stops the auto home.
Then you have come out, and ran the bed levelling routine as per the earlier screenshot
Then finally you have saved settings.
These are not taken from my printer ofc, I dont have a 3, I remember having to change the offset on mine when I first got it as the hotend I put on from new is a different length than the one the printer was shipped with. But I connected the printer directly with terminal emulation software (minicom under linux) and did it via gcode because that's what I was used to. You could do same with pronterface, octoprint has a gcode terminal you can use, or I think cura or prusa have similar functionality somewhere. But I think its easier to use the gui, I'm just used to using command line.
Nope...the rotary knob only takes the nozzle down 10mm and maxes out.
It needs to go lower but its not got the range.
That is the issue I am having...
