Floor tiling

[Kram]

They didnt have any, got 5L of the KA SBR instead. Now its labeled as SBR but the instructions call it a latex, which are quite different. I assume it will do the job, might start preparing the floor in half hour or so to get that done tonight.


While I was in wickes I noticed they had under-tile insulation, along with underfloor heating. Anyone used the insulation? Tempted to use it in the hall, floor gets bloody cold in winter.

 

[SierraV6]

You’ve done the right thing using the SBR as a primer. Wickes actually sell the Norcros NX Primer which is recommended for use with the levelling screed you have, but I’m certain it’s just SBR (it looks and smells like it).

Just a word of warning re that levelling screed. I’ve used it for three jobs now as it’s cheap for a deep fill product, but I’ve found it a bit temperamental. It seems prone to cracking and on one occasion it de-bonded and I ended up taking it up and doing it again. I’ve no idea why but I’m extra careful about priming the existing substrate, using exactly the right amount of water and mixing it thoroughly. It just has that feel of a product that’s cheap for a reason and despite doing everything meticulously I always end up with a couple of shrinkage cracks. That’s using it at 40-50mm depth. I’ve never had the same problem with other similar products, of course it may still be user error but I’m not convinced.

I’d be interested to know how you get on with it, good luck!

 

[Kram]

Is it more likely to crack using the minimum 3mm depth?
I didnt try it tonight, found some other stuff to do first.

 

[SierraV6]

Is it more likely to crack using the minimum 3mm depth?
I didnt try it tonight, found some other stuff to do first.

I’m honestly not sure, I’ve only used it as a deep fill. What I would say is try not to let it dry out too quickly at that depth, if there’s a radiator nearby turn it off etc. as that may be a problem. Fingers crossed all goes well, as I said I’ve managed to complete three jobs with it, I just found it a little painful to use compared to other products.

 

[Kram]

Tiles are all cut (took ages) and ready to go down. Just wondering if I should prime the surface with SBR, or use SBR in the adhesive mixture, or both?

The leveller, it was pretty much as I expected, and it did not seem to self level very much, had to push it around and level it with the trowel which took most of 15 mins and then left it, and it set as it was left, minor bumps/ridges from the trowel. Perhaps it needs to be poured much quicker? Took the high ridges out with angle grinder diamond wheel. It looks much better for tiling than the bitumen, and it'll be close enough to adjust flat ( by squashing out excess adhesive).
When I do the hallway, I do *not* want to be adjusting it flat with a grinder!

I did the room with a single batch of 8kg leveler, 1.4kg water, 350g sbr

 

[SierraV6]

Tiles are all cut (took ages) and ready to go down. Just wondering if I should prime the surface with SBR, or use SBR in the adhesive mixture, or both?

The leveller, it was pretty much as I expected, and it did not seem to self level very much, had to push it around and level it with the trowel which took most of 15 mins and then left it, and it set as it was left, minor bumps/ridges from the trowel. Perhaps it needs to be poured much quicker? Took the high ridges out with angle grinder diamond wheel. It looks much better for tiling than the bitumen, and it'll be close enough to adjust flat ( by squashing out excess adhesive).
When I do the hallway, I do *not* want to be adjusting it flat with a grinder!

I did the room with a single batch of 8kg leveler, 1.4kg water, 350g sbr

Apologies, you’ve probably done the job by now! But to answer your question, just prime the surface.

 

[mike os]

For smooth surfaces you need to use maximum water and a spiked roller

 

[Sean]

Tiles are all cut (took ages) and ready to go down. Just wondering if I should prime the surface with SBR, or use SBR in the adhesive mixture, or both?/QUOTE]

NO, follow the instructions on a decent brand of adhesive , BAL,Mapei,Webber etc. SLC is usually fine to take a thinset cement based adhesive with NO surface prep. Go with a "standard set" gives you a bit more working time and pot life itll still set up in an hour or so due to the suction of the SLC. It just means youll have to wait 12 hrs to grout it rather than 3.
oh and avoid Topps for adhesive they are robbing barstewards

 

[SierraV6]

Very true regarding Topps Tiles. One bloke at my local branch gets a bit stroppy when I refuse to buy adhesive (or grout) from them. I love telling him about the great deals I get at Screwfix!

 

[Kram]

Yesterday we strippd the old hall way carpet and tiles plan to level and tile it this week. Its about 15m² area.

Will order 3 or 4 bags of the SLC that @brightspark linked above and a few bags if adhesive. Im not sure if fast or slow set would be easier.

For a roller, 500mm. I assume 11 or 21mm spikes doesnt matter?

 

[mike os]

Yesterday we strippd the old hall way carpet and tiles plan to level and tile it this week. Its about 15m² area.

Will order 3 or 4 bags of the SLC that @brightspark linked above and a few bags if adhesive. Im not sure if fast or slow set would be easier.

For a roller, 500mm. I assume 11 or 21mm spikes doesnt matter?

21mm