- Thread starter Dieselman 63
- Start date
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,819
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
To silence any critics, here it is about to start work on a job.
I love the versatility of these machines. The cast item I'm drilling is too large to fit on the table and keeps rolling off. This isn't a problem as I can rest it on the bench and use the radius of the head to drill it. The table is swung around the other side.
I am drilling out a hole which will be tapped to accept a plug - this will enable me to drain the trough on the grinder. There was one there originally but it's fully seized so boring-out is the only way.
I love the versatility of these machines. The cast item I'm drilling is too large to fit on the table and keeps rolling off. This isn't a problem as I can rest it on the bench and use the radius of the head to drill it. The table is swung around the other side.
I am drilling out a hole which will be tapped to accept a plug - this will enable me to drain the trough on the grinder. There was one there originally but it's fully seized so boring-out is the only way.
jpmillermatic
Member
- Messages
- 1,094
what a nice restoration!
JP
JP
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,819
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
The original vice broke about two months ago and it’s taken as long to track a replacement down. It just wouldn’t do it justice to fit a Chinese vice on this lovely English machine!
So eventually I found this, and after a quick refurb it’s come up lovely. Now I can get back to drilling fiddly stuff
So eventually I found this, and after a quick refurb it’s come up lovely. Now I can get back to drilling fiddly stuff
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,819
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
I wasn’t 100% happy with the belt guard so I decided to take it to uni to sandblast. I used the wrong green to start with, then overpainted with enamel. I didn’t etch prime and some small areas had lifted through repeated handling.
The knobs had been stripped too, so these were re-knurled on the big uni lathes.
Today I’m going to buy some etch primer as I have a load of bits from the Selecta grinder all blasted and awaiting primer too, but for now here’s some pics of the current work
The knobs had been stripped too, so these were re-knurled on the big uni lathes.
Today I’m going to buy some etch primer as I have a load of bits from the Selecta grinder all blasted and awaiting primer too, but for now here’s some pics of the current work
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,819
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,819
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Neither.
I used 0000 wire wool with turps to cut through the crap, then a scotchbrite wheel in a drill to bring up a shine. The table is machined and it’s sort of bad form to wire brush these parts.
Post some pictures or make a restoration thread, I’m sure others like myself would love to see
slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,532
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
Welcome aboard the forum, Adam. 
Neither.
I used 0000 wire wool with turps to cut through the crap, then a scotchbrite wheel in a drill to bring up a shine. The table is machined and it’s sort of bad form to wire brush these parts.
Post some pictures or make a restoration thread, I’m sure others like myself would love to see
Thanks for the advice. Will just try some light scrubbing light scotchbrite and WD40 for now. I’m a complete newby to anything workshop related, and welding, but keen to learn!
Here’s a few pictures - everything is really great condition and I spent a lot of time researching and waiting for one like this to come up at a bargain £200. All original,apart from the top cover which has been hinged but done so very well. Only a tiny mark on the table, and nice patina to the paint. Doesn’t seem to have been abused at any point during its life.
Do you have the lathes manual, and if so is it worth getting prior to disassembly?
Kind regards,
Adam
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,819
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Nice. I stole mine for $150 which is about £75 
The manual is very helpful. Use bearing pullers to get the pulleys off if you do disassemble it as they are cast iron and expensive. If there’s no play and you’re happy with the finish though there shouldn’t be much reason to take it to bits.
Open the plaque to see the rotary switch and if the previous owner over-greased it, mine was full to the brim, it was horrible. You could take the head off the drill and unfasten the column to send it through a wire brushing machine, I did this and it gave a beautiful shine. Be aware that the column is 2” round steel, very heavy! Lastly check the pegs under the table aren’t seized and slacken the bolt to have a go at rotating the table 90deg each way. Unless you’re anal about showroom/ex-works finish like myself, just use it as is. Oh and the bearings are hard to replace I seem to recall. If they’re good leave them alone
The manual is very helpful. Use bearing pullers to get the pulleys off if you do disassemble it as they are cast iron and expensive. If there’s no play and you’re happy with the finish though there shouldn’t be much reason to take it to bits.
Open the plaque to see the rotary switch and if the previous owner over-greased it, mine was full to the brim, it was horrible. You could take the head off the drill and unfasten the column to send it through a wire brushing machine, I did this and it gave a beautiful shine. Be aware that the column is 2” round steel, very heavy! Lastly check the pegs under the table aren’t seized and slacken the bolt to have a go at rotating the table 90deg each way. Unless you’re anal about showroom/ex-works finish like myself, just use it as is. Oh and the bearings are hard to replace I seem to recall. If they’re good leave them alone
Great advice so far, nice looking drill you have there. I restored mine there’s a thread on here.
As per above if it’s working with no play I would leave it and use it. I completely stripped mine and put new bearings in it. The design requires some tweaking to get the pre load just right so as not to introduce any played which can be finicky to get right.
I add an NVR to mine for safety and a work light using the original switch for it which worked out out really well.
As per above if it’s working with no play I would leave it and use it. I completely stripped mine and put new bearings in it. The design requires some tweaking to get the pre load just right so as not to introduce any played which can be finicky to get right.
I add an NVR to mine for safety and a work light using the original switch for it which worked out out really well.
So spent a couple hours giving it a clean - table came up nicely. Seems like it’s never been taken apart, and not abused at any point. Grease was still quite clean, and not over-filled.
First problem is that the adjustable mounting bars for the motor are extremely stiff. Managed to whack it so I could get the pulley off, but can’t now pull it back out - any tips to loosen it up?
Secondly I noticed some play in the spindle when extended down and giving it a tug - only a very small amount. Should it be completely solid and not have any movement? Seems to run fairly true when rotating, so might just be movement in the bearing race whilst it’s not under load?
First problem is that the adjustable mounting bars for the motor are extremely stiff. Managed to whack it so I could get the pulley off, but can’t now pull it back out - any tips to loosen it up?
Secondly I noticed some play in the spindle when extended down and giving it a tug - only a very small amount. Should it be completely solid and not have any movement? Seems to run fairly true when rotating, so might just be movement in the bearing race whilst it’s not under load?
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,819
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
The motor bracket is a pain to get in. Make sure the sliders are absolutely clean and the holes too. I tightened the bolts after they went in, the slackness helps a little.
Agreed. Had to hit it with a rubber mallet to get it in to loosen the tension on the drive belt to remove it. Now the issue is getting the damn thing back out! Any tips on that, or just use a rubber mallet and a saceaficial bit of wood to avoid damaging the motor mount?
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,819
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
When removing the motor I like to swivel the table so it sits underneath the motor, then raise it as high as possible. It makes the chances of it falling or you injuring yourself almost nil.
Thanks for the advice - got it moving more easily now! I’ve created a new thread rather than hijacking this one - got a new problem if you could help me, have posted about it in the new thread! Thanks.
MOD edit - add link
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/fobco-star-pillar-drill-yes-another-one.85021/
MOD edit - add link
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/fobco-star-pillar-drill-yes-another-one.85021/
Gareth J
Member
- Messages
- 3,668
- Location
- North Cornwall
Bit of a while back now, but do you have any details of the return spring assembly?Update time. I've actually been avoiding replacing the spring because it was such a pig to get off originally, but since I've cleaned everything up and it's all working now, it was really easy. The quill lock has been unfastened and the quill now holds in the up position - result!
I'm putting one back together and the dial is loose on there, with what looks like one, incorrect washer. Looks like, from yours, it should have one large washer, with hole to go over the threaded stub, that goes up against the spring. And a second, with a larger hole to go over the straight portion of the nut. Maybe made of something softer? Plastic ? Or a wavy washer?...
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,819
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Gosh the things I do for forum-folk… I’d just gone inside for bed!
Back into overalls, back outside…
Nut off, there’s a slim washer and a wavy sprung washer sits on top, then a 7/16w chromed nut which goes on. You nip the nut up tight and the sprung washer allows the dial to be turned then ‘friction lock’ into position against the nut.
