- Thread starter Tupers
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Read posts 3 and 4 in this thread?
:-)
Angusdog
Well-meaning amateur
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- 724
- Location
- Wellington, NZ
Aha, makes sense now. I just got our Estate back from the brake specialists. I'd upgraded to Metro vented disks, but left it to the experts to install the booster (from a Hillman Hunter!). Took a while as the 'reconditioned' booster was not, and the brake hose kit was flawed but it's all done now. Savage brakes, to the point of overkill but worth it.
Tupers
Member
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- 952
Dad kindly welded the ends onto the tank box for me.
I decided the tackle the top of the plate in the bulk head but had trouble clamping it so ran 4 self tappers though it the pull it tight to the back plate.
I welded up the gaps and then took the screws out and welded up the remaining holes.
With the bulk head welded up I turned my attention to the bonnet stay lock.
Drilled out the spot welds.
I cleaned up the area underneath and cut two slots...
And then fitted the stay lock so that it could be welded in from the underside.
Once I've ground it and flowed some braze in around the edges it should look really cool.
Having cut the rearmost top section from the centre console ages ago I finally decided to weld it back on.
All welded up.
I was having problems reaching around handbrake grip with the centre console sitting as high as it is so I chopped up an old door skin for it's handle recess.
It needed to be a little longer so I cut a 35MM section of steel and added it into the centre of the recess.
I sat the console in place to check it would work, I don't know why I painted it. :-
I made the hole in the console bigger and tacked my super awesome new piece in.
Seam welded all the way around.
Then welded in a filler piece in the back.
And ground the welds down to get an idea of how it will look once finished.
I decided the tackle the top of the plate in the bulk head but had trouble clamping it so ran 4 self tappers though it the pull it tight to the back plate.
I welded up the gaps and then took the screws out and welded up the remaining holes.
With the bulk head welded up I turned my attention to the bonnet stay lock.
Drilled out the spot welds.
I cleaned up the area underneath and cut two slots...
And then fitted the stay lock so that it could be welded in from the underside.
Once I've ground it and flowed some braze in around the edges it should look really cool.
Having cut the rearmost top section from the centre console ages ago I finally decided to weld it back on.
All welded up.
I was having problems reaching around handbrake grip with the centre console sitting as high as it is so I chopped up an old door skin for it's handle recess.
It needed to be a little longer so I cut a 35MM section of steel and added it into the centre of the recess.
I sat the console in place to check it would work, I don't know why I painted it. :-
I made the hole in the console bigger and tacked my super awesome new piece in.
Seam welded all the way around.
Then welded in a filler piece in the back.
And ground the welds down to get an idea of how it will look once finished.
Tupers
Member
- Messages
- 952
After doing some thinking I decided that I didn't really like the shape of the top dash rail and would prefer it if it was closer to the original rail below it.
I took a long pie cut from the top of the rail making sure I didn't cut to close the the original radiused edge at the front.
I then pushed the front down and tacked it to the top, thus making a slimmer top dash rail cover.
With the dash rail bolted in you can certainly tell it's got a much slimmer profile.
I also went ahead and mounted the dial pod on 3 pieces of flat bar so I can start building it into the rest of the dash.
I had some spare time so I made a little round plug it fill the hole in the centre of the bulk head cross member. I know it wont be seen once the exhausts in but at least it's another water trap gone.
And then I got really bored so I mocked up an R/C tool box.
I took a long pie cut from the top of the rail making sure I didn't cut to close the the original radiused edge at the front.
I then pushed the front down and tacked it to the top, thus making a slimmer top dash rail cover.
With the dash rail bolted in you can certainly tell it's got a much slimmer profile.
I also went ahead and mounted the dial pod on 3 pieces of flat bar so I can start building it into the rest of the dash.
I had some spare time so I made a little round plug it fill the hole in the centre of the bulk head cross member. I know it wont be seen once the exhausts in but at least it's another water trap gone.
And then I got really bored so I mocked up an R/C tool box.
Tupers
Member
- Messages
- 952
I got the dash rail bolted in and decided to weld it up while it was completely ridged.
After playing with the dials yesterday I realized it would be easier to build the top if I cut the original section off.
I cut it down to this and also cut off the two spikes as I only eyeballed them so the weren't really in the right place.
The next job was to cut the bottom lip off the dash rail as it now caught on the original rail bellow it.
And I did the same on the opposite side.
Having made more room above the dials I welded them back in and mocked up the curves above them in card.
Once I was happy with the shape I made them in steel, they still need tweaking but they're getting there.
I also bought some shinny new tools, I'm going to need a bigger tool box soon.
After playing with the dials yesterday I realized it would be easier to build the top if I cut the original section off.
I cut it down to this and also cut off the two spikes as I only eyeballed them so the weren't really in the right place.
The next job was to cut the bottom lip off the dash rail as it now caught on the original rail bellow it.
And I did the same on the opposite side.
Having made more room above the dials I welded them back in and mocked up the curves above them in card.
Once I was happy with the shape I made them in steel, they still need tweaking but they're getting there.
I also bought some shinny new tools, I'm going to need a bigger tool box soon.
Angusdog
Well-meaning amateur
- Messages
- 724
- Location
- Wellington, NZ
I'm very interested in the dash - quite different to the ones you see in Miniworld etc. I prefer dashes which keep the open nature of the mini's cabin - I can't see the point in covering in the parcel shelf since it's part of what makes a mini a mini. The centre console also looks neat and handy for concealing stereos, cables, etc. Any thoughts so far about how you're going to cover it?
Tupers
Member
- Messages
- 952
The center console and dash will both be painted the same color as the rest of the estate (deep metallic red). I had thought about covering them in black leather but I really like the idea of bringing some more of the body color into the cabin.
Last week I barely did any work on the estate as I was busy with my other job but as of this morning I'm back in the work shop and decided to sort out my tank box.
I started out by trimming the back lip of the box to fit the cut out in the floor.
Pulled it over to the bench to finish the cut and flap wheel it.
Popped it back in to check the fit.
The lips coming of the ends where to long so they where the next to get the chop.
After a bit of cutting.
And the front lip saw also oversized so that got chopped as well.
Cut down, I also radiused the edges as I thought having sharp edges as around chest height on the bench was a bit sketchy.
I sat the box in again to see how it looked. I should be able to fit another box in under the seats big enough to house two batteries and something special.
Last of all I popped a load of holes in it and hopefully I should have it all welded in the end of the day tomorrow.
DangerStevie
Member
- Messages
- 109
Looking good mate, what kind of style are you going for with the clubby? standard exterior? motor?
Tupers
Member
- Messages
- 952
I'm thinking a Foose/Coddington style sleek custom.
The engine will either be an 1100 bored out with Hillman Imp pistons or a 1275 but very different to everything else out there.
Yesterday I had Dad welded up the seams in the tank box from the inside and then I took the welds on the out side down with a flap disc.
It took a while but you can barely tell it's not one piece now.
I painted the hard to get at bits with a couple coats of red oxide.
Dad welded the box in yesterday while I was out.
I made up a plate to go in each corner at the back as the box didn't cover these areas.
He wasn't able to weld right to the end as the floor curves down so I cut a slit behind the box, clamped up the lip and welded the rest of it up.
My new Smith & Arrow 40 grit flap wheels turned up today so I though I'd take down the plug and seam welds. There'll be a false floor over this but it's nice for it to look as good underneath as it does on top.
I wont be using standard rear door so I got with of the top and bottom bolt receivers.
The bottom was easy as I only needed to cut out the old area, weld in a flat plate and flap wheel it down.
The top was a real pain as all the work was about my head but got it cut out quite cleanly.
The door frame is actually double skinned so I welded in the top section first.
Then I made a new outer section and welded it in, there's nothing like blobs of mig falling onto your crouch to scare you. >_<
More tomorrow.
DangerStevie
Member
- Messages
- 109
Will be a cool car once done mate, keep us posted.
Tupers
Member
- Messages
- 952
Thanks for the kind words guys it's nice to know people like it. How about some more pics, eight days late buy hey ho.
I took the welds on the door frame down with a flap disc. It was almost as fun as welding it in but it does look good.
I decided it was about time I sorted out the space in front of the tank box so cut out some steel.
Dad gave me a hand and we rolled a few swages into it to stiffen it up.
I then put it in the brake and folded it up.
And after a bit of trimming to the floor I slotted in in front of the tank box.
The swages even line up. :genius:
Hopefully the next update wont take so long.
I took the welds on the door frame down with a flap disc. It was almost as fun as welding it in but it does look good.
I decided it was about time I sorted out the space in front of the tank box so cut out some steel.
Dad gave me a hand and we rolled a few swages into it to stiffen it up.
I then put it in the brake and folded it up.
And after a bit of trimming to the floor I slotted in in front of the tank box.
The swages even line up. :genius:
Hopefully the next update wont take so long.
Tupers
Member
- Messages
- 952
I made the sides for the battery box up this afternoon and put a nice swaged line in to match the other sides and base. The top of the these and angled to match the drop in floor height from back to front in the estate.
I clamped the box down to our steel bench take out the curve in the base and test fitted the right hand side.
Put a few tac welds on each side to hold it in place. Tomorrow I'll get dad to seam weld it inside and out, I could have done it but he's better at it than I am.
Here it is with both sides on, I do love it when a plan come together.
I clamped the box down to our steel bench take out the curve in the base and test fitted the right hand side.
Put a few tac welds on each side to hold it in place. Tomorrow I'll get dad to seam weld it inside and out, I could have done it but he's better at it than I am.
Here it is with both sides on, I do love it when a plan come together.
Tupers
Member
- Messages
- 952
As with the tank box I drilled a ton of holes around the perimeter to plug weld through onto the body.
Dad seam welded the sides on for me while I was off be lazy.
The seams at each end of the box where smoothed over with the flap wheel.
I put a couple coats of red oxide as it'd be a real pain to do once it's welded in.
I decided to chuck it back on to check welding it hadn't changed it's shape, thankfully all was well.
Before I weld the battery box in I wanted to add a brace for both so I cut a length of 27MM square section to suit.
Here it is plug and seam welded to the lip that comes off the tank box and to what's left of the floor.
The floor at the rear wasn't perfectly level all the way across so we adjusted it a little the the Oxy and a big hammer.
Once every thing had cooled down I took the welds on the the square section dow so the lip on the battery box could sit over it.
Tomorrow I have a bit more tweaking to do to the floor to make it meet the box and then it'll be ready to weld in.
Dad seam welded the sides on for me while I was off be lazy.
The seams at each end of the box where smoothed over with the flap wheel.
I put a couple coats of red oxide as it'd be a real pain to do once it's welded in.
I decided to chuck it back on to check welding it hadn't changed it's shape, thankfully all was well.
Before I weld the battery box in I wanted to add a brace for both so I cut a length of 27MM square section to suit.
Here it is plug and seam welded to the lip that comes off the tank box and to what's left of the floor.
The floor at the rear wasn't perfectly level all the way across so we adjusted it a little the the Oxy and a big hammer.
Once every thing had cooled down I took the welds on the the square section dow so the lip on the battery box could sit over it.
Tomorrow I have a bit more tweaking to do to the floor to make it meet the box and then it'll be ready to weld in.
Tupers
Member
- Messages
- 952
Cheers.
I spent today fitting the battery box in and managed to get some lovely welds on it.
Dad and I teamed up to hammer and dolly the floor up to meet the box and I must say it turned out pretty well. Once the welds have been ground down and every thing's been primed and paint you should barley be able to tell it's not standard.
Tupers
Member
- Messages
- 952
Today I decided to remove the bonnet prop mount as I wasn't really happy with how it came out.
Made a lovely big hole.
And cut a plate to fill it up.
One thing that had been annoying me about the centre console was how it bowed in at it's base so I cut a piece of box section to correct it.
The fact that one the nuts from the rod change bobbins stuck through the side of the console has also been annoying me.
I had thought about making a half dome to cover the nut but decided it would be easier to move the bobbin in on it's mount by 15MM.
Standard on the left, modified on the right.
I did of course drill another hole in the tunnel for the bobbin to mount through and once of console was back in the nut was well out of the way.
I also made up a little 90* plate to fill the gap.
So tomorrow once we've got some more MIG gas I'll weld up those three bits, finish of the welding on the battery box and then I'll have to find something else to do.
Made a lovely big hole.
And cut a plate to fill it up.
One thing that had been annoying me about the centre console was how it bowed in at it's base so I cut a piece of box section to correct it.
The fact that one the nuts from the rod change bobbins stuck through the side of the console has also been annoying me.
I had thought about making a half dome to cover the nut but decided it would be easier to move the bobbin in on it's mount by 15MM.
Standard on the left, modified on the right.
I did of course drill another hole in the tunnel for the bobbin to mount through and once of console was back in the nut was well out of the way.
I also made up a little 90* plate to fill the gap.
So tomorrow once we've got some more MIG gas I'll weld up those three bits, finish of the welding on the battery box and then I'll have to find something else to do.
