Foot Pedal pin-out for Tec-Arc TIG216i AC-DC ?

[Greybeard]

The generic name for these analog AC/DC TIG welders is "WSME-200".

Thanks Eddie - that's a perfect match to the first Google link - the outer structure of this Rohr branded welder (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Welder-Inverter-Gasless-200amp-Machine/dp/B0798RBDTC) is materially identical to my Tec-Arc 216 (but less than half the price!).

There's a case-off review here (https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/rohr-wsme200-teardown-and-impressions.108653/) with photos here (

https://imgur.com/a/7RYHdmh

), and the internal components seem pretty much identical too. Hard to see where Tec-Arc can justify the mark-up.

Hopefully I can find a wiring diagram for the generic WSME-200 controller sockets.

 

[addjunkie]

Disappointing response from tecarc. At the 215plus vat is it an ssc pedal or something else. If its the ssc pedal they are top notch. If its not get on ebay and buy one for a wsme 200 direct from the orient, think rtec. used to do the same machine too

 

[Greybeard]

Disappointing response from tecarc. At the 215plus vat is it an ssc pedal or something else. If its the ssc pedal they are top notch. If its not get on ebay and buy one for a wsme 200 direct from the orient, think rtec. used to do the same machine too

I don't know who makes the Tec-Arc pedal, it doesn't look particularly special (https://advancedweldingsupplies.com/products/tecarc-foot-pedal-2-x-5-pin-plugs)

 

[Greybeard]

Update :

The good news. I've deciphered the pin-outs. There were only 9 possible ways to connect 3 wires, and I found it on the 4th variation. For the benefit of anyone who follows, the correct pinout for my generic Susemse pedal (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07YZ5XTJ6) was this. Working from the indexing on the panel socket - Green to 1, Yellow to 2 and Blue to 3. This provides full control of output through the pedal, including the secondary, max-limiting potentiometer on the pedal base.

The bad news. The pedal socket on this welder is faulty, and the connection isn't reliable. If wiggled the circuit breaks and the welder reverts to amp setting by knob. I've checked my soldering very, very carefully, I've removed the XLR outer case and plugged in the bare connector. I'm 100% sure the pedal socket is duff. Pushing either XLR plug into the switch socket on left has a smooth, firm resistance as the pins are gripped. Pushing either XLR plug into the pedal socket on right is loose and wobbly. I can slide the smooth shank of a 1.5mm drill bit in with no resistance at all, but if I try to do that with the identical switch socket it won't go in (XLR pins are about 1.35mm).

It's not a big deal, I can replace the socket for £2.51 (https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-signal/psg01585/socket-xlr-chassis-5p/dp/AV15043). I know this is a factory defect, because the chap I bought this welder from had never unboxed and used it. He bought it during Covid but carried on using his familiar MIG system. When I got it, it was still in factory packaging and no plug had ever been fitted to the mains lead. Raises more questions about quality control at Tec-Arc though.

Finally, thank you for all the advice and encouragement.

 

[Turbo]

Update :

The good news. I've deciphered the pin-outs. There were only 9 possible ways to connect 3 wires, and I found it on the 4th variation. For the benefit of anyone who follows, the correct pinout for my generic Susemse pedal (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07YZ5XTJ6) was this. Working from the indexing on the panel socket - Green to 1, Yellow to 2 and Blue to 3. This provides full control of output through the pedal, including the secondary, max-limiting potentiometer on the pedal base.

The bad news. The pedal socket on this welder is faulty, and the connection isn't reliable. If wiggled the circuit breaks and the welder reverts to amp setting by knob. I've checked my soldering very, very carefully, I've removed the XLR outer case and plugged in the bare connector. I'm 100% sure the pedal socket is duff. Pushing either XLR plug into the switch socket on left has a smooth, firm resistance as the pins are gripped. Pushing either XLR plug into the pedal socket on right is loose and wobbly. I can slide the smooth shank of a 1.5mm drill bit in with no resistance at all, but if I try to do that with the identical switch socket it won't go in (XLR pins are about 1.35mm).

It's not a big deal, I can replace the socket for £2.51 (https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-signal/psg01585/socket-xlr-chassis-5p/dp/AV15043). I know this is a factory defect, because the chap I bought this welder from had never unboxed and used it. He bought it during Covid but carried on using his familiar MIG system. When I got it, it was still in factory packaging and no plug had ever been fitted to the mains lead. Raises more questions about quality control at Tec-Arc though.

Finally, thank you for all the advice and encouragement.

View attachment 395334

Please take note of the max cable size for the corresponding new plug you will be fitting, make sure you have plenty of room to get the foot pedal cable into it.

(I didn't & I'm struggling to get a thick cable wired into a small 5 pin plug!)

 

[Greybeard]

Please take note of the max cable size for the corresponding new plug you will be fitting, make sure you have plenty of room to get the foot pedal cable into it.

(I didn't & I'm struggling to get a thick cable wired into a small 5 pin plug!)

Thanks Turbo. I'm splitting a 5 core cable into two XLR's - one 2 pole for switch, the other 3 pole for potentiometer. So I don't have that problem, fortunately.

 

[Turbo]

Seein

Thanks Turbo. I'm splitting a 5 core cable into two XLR's - one 2 pole for switch, the other 3 pole for potentiometer. So I don't have that problem, fortunately.

View attachment 395425

Seeing as you're changing them anyway could you not wire everything into a single 5 pin socket & plug, would be a whole lot neater & less chance of mixing up the plugs.

 

[Greybeard]

Seeing as you're changing them anyway could you not wire everything into a single 5 pin socket & plug, would be a whole lot neater & less chance of mixing up the plugs.

Heh, didn't think of that. It would be a more elegant connection, but I'd have a dead socket or open hole on the front panel.

 

[Ubique]

I'd leave them separate, then you can either have a footpedal with switch or a 2T torch, or a 2T torch and footpedal, sometimes the option is useful.

 

[Greybeard]

Thanks, Ubique. That's a good reason to stay with separate connectors. The replacement XLR socket arrived today, it's installed and everything's working fine now. Big thanks for all the helpful suggestions from numerous people.