Freelander

[Kayos]

It's all back together and running I will stop short of saying its "fixed" until I have been on a test drive but for various reasons that will have to be tomorrow

Subjectively it seems to warm up better than before, and now when it's revved you can see coolant circulating in the bottle, that didn't happen before

 

[Kayos]

500 odd mile round trip somewhere south of Sheffield, a strange and distant land it was but the car didn't miss a beat

Until i got home that is, the drivers window decided to jam 1/3 of the way down, according to the history that's the only reg thats not been replaced. had a quick look and ordered some bits, however the open window needed fixing.

Remove door card

Freelander-17 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Remove damaged reg

Freelander-18 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Manufacture and install temp support structure

Freelander-19 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Rebuild door card until bits turn up

 

[Cobbler]

Did you remove the polythene? If not, someone's had problems before!

Your replacement, 100% reliable, never go wrong.

 

[Kayos]

Someone appears to have attempted to "repair" it before, not too fussed on the plastic as I will be sound deadening the doors once I start the install.

I am tempted to leave it, but I do like my leccy windows

 

[Kayos]

Little mod today that makes a huge difference when fitting the head unit

Freelander to ISO adapter (actually from a 330d) plugged into Alpine loom

Freelander-20 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Remove the middle excessive bits and solder together

Freelander-21 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Even with the loss of flexibility due to the solder it makes fitting the head unit much easier

 

[barracuda816]

I would replace that plastic sheet after the soundproofing as its there to stop water ingress.

 

[Kayos]

Nothing will get through the sound deadening when I'm finished

 

[Kayos]

Bit of time today to fit the nudge bar

First a before shot

Whoever removed the bar was a heavy handed heathen

I bonded a threaded insert in with some PU adhesive and used new stainless bolts

Removed the bumper and found some mounting holes that looked to be in the right place, so I offered everything up and decided to use them

I did have to modify the bracket slightly

Test fit

I followed the instructions on RAVE, plus all the holes are marked on the rear of the bumper, but it didn't fit, I had to chop a bigger piece out or the brackets held the bumper in the wrong place, i'm guessing there must be some differences between early/late that I didn't realise?

No pics of the bumper half fitted as I was annoyed, but a couple of it nailed back together

The spots need wiring in but I have plans for that

 

[Robotstar5]

I thought the holes may have been for spotlamp brackets, but mine were further inboard when I drilled them using the template.

 

[Kayos]

There is a lot of play in the bracket mountings, but moving them to miss the plate would have hit the holes so had to go with these one

Plus I had to drill the bumper higher to clear the bracket, not to the side. Ive been looking at the spot brackets, need to see if they will work with the nudge bar

 

[Robotstar5]

.... Ive been looking at the spot brackets, need to see if they will work with the nudge bar

I think they would hit the centre horizontal bar of your nudgebar

 

[Kayos]

I think they would hit the centre horizontal bar of your nudgebar

I may have to sack my idea of twin round spots and fit some rectangle ones a bit lower

 

[octo0072000]

Rubber nudge bar on my last disco only way to get off was pull it off
the captive bolts just spin so only way to remove it
it was a bit floppy

 

[Robotstar5]

Rubber nudge bar on my last disco only way to get off was pull it off
the captive bolts just spin so only way to remove it
it was a bit floppy

What usually happens with threaded inserts is the exposed threads of the bolt protruding through tend to rust/tarnish which jams in the insert when you try to undo the bolt

 

[Kayos]

That's why I've replaced everything with stainless

I'm not 100% happy with how the n/s spot is sitting so I will sort that soon, off to U Pull It today to see what goodies I can get, everything is a fixed price so doesn't matter what car it's from, I've had some bargains in the past

 

[Kayos]

Even more done today (you can tell I'm off work)

I've never been happy with the rear lights, I found a guide to altering them but it wasn't 100% so I set about it myself.

I have altered the exposure on these shots to try and enhance the lights, ideally need some night time shots to see the effect fully

Firstly the standard lights

Side lights

Reverse lights

Brake lights

Fog lights

Indicators

Firstly I removed all the rear trim, using the RAVE wiring diagrams and tracing the wires I worked out what was what and started chopping and changing

What was the foglight I replaced with a twin filament holder from a defender and fitted the appropriate plug, the blue wire will be the side light

I fitted an amber bulb into what was the reverse light holder, no need to file the pin off as straight pin amber bulbs are readily available

I also fitted the bulb holders from an early FL1 into the bumper lights, these have an amber lens so take clear bulbs, a small amount of plastic needs to be cut off. Clear bulbs with offset pins are available, but they are an oddball and quite expensive, where as single filament straight pin bulbs are pennies

Once I was happy with how the rear lights were working I went for a sandwich, sandwich eaten and I retaped all the loom

Side Lights

Fog lights

Reverse lights

Indicators

Brake lights

I also replaced the wiper motor as intermittent was playing up and fitted a tow bar

Quite a productive day really

 

[octo0072000]

the lights was altered because of EU regs, if the back door is open at night it obscures the lights safety hazard

 

[Kayos]

My biggest reason is the lack of demarcation, if I'm stopped on a green lane or dark road then the side lights don't show the width of the car, they moved them to the edge on the facelift ones

 

[octo0072000]

My biggest reason is the lack of demarcation, if I'm stopped on a green lane or dark road then the side lights don't show the width of the car, they moved them to the edge on the facelift ones

are you going to lift it because you will rip the arseend out of it on green lanes need full under body protection rear box first to go

 

[Kayos]

are you going to lift it because you will rip the arseend out of it on green lanes need full under body protection rear box first to go

I may lift it, done a few lanes and no bother so far

I'm looking at having a custom exhaust built, small centre and back boxes, but having it all tucked up in the tunnel out of the way, had a good price for a manifold back system but its on hold while I change jobs