full respray but in what order

[mirafioriman]

If you are painting a full car I would always prime the whole car. Yes it takes longer and costs a bit more but you get a much better finish. Also as you found it highlights any areas that need further work or react.

Prime, guide coat, wet flat and when all is well colour coat. It's always the preparation that makes the difference between an average job and a nice job.

Imperfections in the colour coat can be dealt with but if it's underneath it's repaint time

 

[norsa]

Are you talking pickling up where you feathered the blue into the silver? All you need do mate is Spot prime the local areas unless there are feathers all over.
Nick

 

[norsa]

This of course is in the assumption the rest of the paint is sound not celly:/

 

[gaz_moose]

yeah, where i had featherd the edges out digging out stone chips etc with the DA..

there was a good few areas so it would have been to much hastle to spot prime it.


got the shell painted

just knocked up a plastic sheet spray booth and used an old electric fire to warm it up.

got a bit carried away and lay to much paint on the passenger side quarter and got some savvage runs and some sagging

i waited a good while and blew another thin layer on the section under the runs.
i understand its a black art but whats my best way to get the runs out?

i was thinking about waiting a couple of days then cutting the tops off them, sticking some masking tape above and below the runs and blocking them down with like 800 grit then going over with 1000 then 1500 the whole car.

ive still got it all masked up so was going to attempt it first and worst case have to do a blow in.although im only really used to painting entire panels so a bit unsure how to fade it in.

 

[the snooper]

razor blade with masking tape wrapped round both ends and slice of the majority then flat out whats left and polish

 

[norsa]

have to say, if you're going to flat and mop the entire car, it would be a lot less hassle to block the runs out, spot prime if you break through to the base coat. Extend the area to double the size with your 1000 then flick your paint in. Let it flash off for say five minutes and flick some fade out thinners around the dry area. Alternatively. flat your bogeys out, 600 the entire panel except the top of the C pillar, (G3 that to give some key) blow the panel in and flick your fade out on the top of the pillar. Those runs will be a hard job to get out and get away with mate TBH.
Nick

 

[the snooper]

it is possible to get rid but as above it would be easier to flat and repaint then you are guaranteed of not geting a distorted shine in the panel where the runs were

 

[gaz_moose]

well, i cut the heads off the runs with a taped up razor and blocked them with some 1500 wet n dry. all was going well untill i got to cocky and rubbed through to the primer on the edge of the arch and the paint was real thin on the arch bodyline. i got pretty much all of the rest of the runs out.

i sanded the surrounding area with some 1000 grit.

masked it up and flicked a bit of paint over the affected area.

i was pretty chuffed as ive not done much in the way of spot repairs.


whats fade out spray? ive heard of people putting more thinners in the gun to blend stuff in.

 

[the snooper]

a simple explanation fade out lets the paints blend into each other without leaving a halo when polished ie showing the edge of the new paint

 

[norsa]

That must have taken ages and patience to cut those runs out only to suffer huge dissapointment when you broke through. tough one to learn but we pro's have been there. Unlucky but lesson learned. Now, Next mistake, dont mask off part panels to blow repairs/locals in as you will have the mask line to contend with. instead, leave the panel exposed and mask all the adjacent, blow your local in and lightly wash over with the fade out to lose the dry line, lightly flat back if you wish and MOP. Yes it is possible to wash a dry line out with thinners but if you get the timing or amount wrong you will be very dissapointed to see a few minutes later your paint job sliding down the panel. The real fade out is a blend of characters that hold the paint and melt the dry edge. It can be bought in a litre tin for the gun or in rattle can form.
Nick

 

[gaz_moose]

the part i blew in was about the size of your hand. so id say i was pretty safe in masking it like that. if you look closely you will see i have folded the edge of the masking tape over to form a flap so as to not get a solid edge.

i will have a look at fade out spray.

 

[gaz_moose]

its come out pretty darn good for a novice like me ive wet flatted it with 1500 as it had a slight orange peel in some places then mopped it with some G3 cutting compound but its not as shiney as the mirrors and other bits i havent flatted and polished. what should i do after the G3 stage? i ran the mop over with pretty much just water after cutting each panel.

 

[norsa]

well the silence was truly deafening and was also your answer. If you didnt get it, let me spell it out. IF you are a self appointed novice requiring a little help/advice, and IF some well meaning and experienced people go out of their way to offer the help/advice (if i may quote one of our esteemed advisors) based on actually having done the job, not read about doing it). Heed the advice and dont throw it back in their faces and you may find you will get their help next time you need it.

Quote: the part i blew in was about the size of your hand. so id say i was pretty safe in masking it like that. if you look closely you will see i have folded the edge of the masking tape over to form a flap so as to not get a solid edge.

 

[gaz_moose]

hahaha, lesson learned.i think sometimes you have to be a bit big headed as if you think you might balls something up then chances are you will. so sorry if i appeared to be a bit of a git,i guess i was on abit of high.

you were right about the part that i 'blew in' as you can see it but its not really that noticeable and its the least of my worries at the moment.

 

[norsa]

As you said, lesson learned. Nuff said.
So. I suspect its not as shiny for two reasons. 1 it needs polish to achieve protection and full gloss, 2 it is full of scratches. If you look closely with a strong light, you will still see the swirl marks from your wet flatting as your 1500 is too coarse for a finish. Did you use a MOP? Assuming you left it for no more than 3 days before flatting:- De- nib any dust specs with 1200, flat with 1500, flat 3000, G3 G10 carnuba wax. Mopping is not something you can just do, you have to learn and it can take time to get it right. If you search farecla on you tube, i believe there are a couple of fairly good demos on there.
Nick

 

[gaz_moose]

i flatted it with 1500 then mopped it with g3. you can still see the 1500 scratches. i was a bit nervous sanding my nice new paint so didnt go to mad with it or the mopping.

i mopped a few old vans before hand as a bit of a practice.

will 2000 grit be enough as thats the highest ive seen in the local paint place?
i will have to get some g10 cheers.

 

[langy]

i flatted it with 1500 then mopped it with g3. you can still see the 1500 scratches. i was a bit nervous sanding my nice new paint so didnt go to mad with it or the mopping.

i mopped a few old vans before hand as a bit of a practice.

will 2000 grit be enough as thats the highest ive seen in the local paint place?
i will have to get some g10 cheers.

Flat with 1200, then 1500, then 2000, then use G6, then G3, then G10, finish off with a decent hand glaze and it will be like glass, I did post a how too somewhere but i'm ******ed if i can find it now

 

[langy]

Here ya go http://www.nsra.org.uk/newforum/showthread.php?t=43733&highlight=colour+sanding

 

[norsa]

bit out of touch and stuck in my ways as you know Steve G6 coarse presumably? Seem to remember G7 but that was designed for celly or by hand application iirc.
I know a guy who went through college, and was told you have to compound untill the surface smells of onions. He also fell for the tartan paint trick.
Nick

 

[langy]

bit out of touch and stuck in my ways as you know Steve G6 coarse presumably? Seem to remember G7 but that was designed for celly or by hand application iirc.
I know a guy who went through college, and was told you have to compound untill the surface smells of onions. He also fell for the tartan paint trick.
Nick

Yes G6 is a coarse paste Nick, works for me