Garage floor resin paint

[addjunkie]

Given the choice; I would always power float concrete, which means the floor remains clean, no dust, easy to clear up and looks ace. No maintenance either!!
Did that at home in my shed and haven't touched it since laying nearly five years ago.

I regret not power floating my shed!

 

[KimB]

On a serious point if the concrete is specced appropriately then you can get a very good finish with no dust from it straight off.

I've posted this before but this is the finish the day after pouring my workshop floor. We'll worth the £700 (inc VAT) it cost to get the pros to do it.
View attachment 278844
I told the chap (Andrew Sheen) what it was for - a workshop with machine tools, working om vehicles etc. He strongly advised against floating it saying he'd get such a smooth finish on it it would be lethal when wet / oily.
I didn't want any dust and he said I can do that without you needing paint.

11x5m 200mm thick and from the 3 of them driving in the gate to driving out was 1h45. Walkable in 24h and drivable in 72h.

So far builders have brought a couple of tonnes of wall down onto it and they've not even marked it. I'd have to double check the invoice but it was I think C40 and I also put reinforcing down.

I had C40 in mine with mesh too. At Least I’m sure I did.

 

[8ob]

We have just had the floors ground on a project I am involved in, they will be resin coated at a later date. A bit dusty but doesnt take long and its a lot smoother than any other concrete or screed finish. From what I have seen of painted floors they have to be perfectly smooth to get a lasting finish.

Bob

 

[Peter M]

You guys are right....... the extra to place more concrete in the mix is negligible. Pretty sure mine was C30 in both sheds. Both have wire mesh and the big shed had fibres too. I have not had any trouble with my floor being wet but I’m mindful of the risk of slipping so careful.
I placed the concrete for my outside kitchen myself. Again it was C30 and I trowled it off to a very smooth finish. Couldn’t stand up properly for the rest of the day bacause I had been on my knees for so long!! It’s hard as hell and although not as good as the power floated equivalent, does not create dust, stays clean and doesn’t require maintenance.
My advice; pay the extra on the way in for more concrete ie C30 or 40. Spend more time trowling off or power floating and you will get a far superior floor/finish that requires little or no maintenance........ far cheaper in the long term and gives more time for other things. Just my experience and opinion for what it’s worth.

 

[Shox Dr]

When it came to laying the slab in my workshop, I intended to power float it. As it happned I got a job in where a floor reqiured floating, so did both jobs one after another.
The finish is so good, that after 6yrs I still havent used the paint I bought.
If I was to cover it, it would be the rubber type tiles.

 

[northwest]

On a serious point if the concrete is specced appropriately then you can get a very good finish with no dust from it straight off.

You were lucky. The guy actually knew what he was talking about. It is not always the case and sometimes people will say whatever to get the job. My garden path is a case in point. It has been down 18 months and needs relaying. Because I was in hospital my good lady thought it would be "nice to save me doing it" we discussed it and frankly she talked me into letting someone else do it, was not the cheapest. F$&**ing disaster.

The paint Kim pointed to is the stuff I used on my place which sees a LOT of traffic and it has stood up well, I am of the belief that if you can get a good protective layer on the floor it is far easier to go over it later than try to repair and paint the floor later. We had a beautiful concrete floor in the Dairy, really nice and well laid. It was done by real craftsmen back in the day, hard a nails and smooth but not slippery. It was wet all the time.

 

[the snooper]

Shall I put underlay down too
View attachment 278836

Ermmm, you don't put underlay down with ceramics

 

[sako243]

You were lucky. The guy actually knew what he was talking about.

I wouldn't say luck was anything to do with it. Done the research saw some floors he'd done several years after the event so it was just good research.

 

[cr500dom]

I did mine with A single coat of Dacrylate Epidac water based epoxy 5 years ago and it lasted extremely well.
I’ve just recoated it in Jotun Jotamastic 90 (as I couldn’t get Epidac in time for the window I had available to do the job)
And it’s come out nicely
I park in there, use jacks and stands, drag stuff across it etc and it’s held up well.

 

[Migmac]

Our larder floors are done with an epoxy resin. Great to begin with, very resilient to things getting dropped on it. Five years old now and if you drop a gambrel or hook onto it you get a nice dent.

 

[My Old Landy]

Er, I have carpet in half my workshop and rubber matting in the other half

 

[James1979]

I’ve always fancied doing this workshop.

previous one I was in was done by the landlord and was lethal when anything was spilt on it. I’ve been in others the same and then others that seem grippy whatever is on the floor so I don’t know. Unless it’s resin or paint with some sort of texture to it?

On the ships we put blasting grit on a deck when the paint is tacky, then when it’s dry repaint it a few times. That’s the best way but not great for a workshop I suppose.

 

[Burdekin]

A 2k epoxy, most epoxy paints will make decent floor paints on concrete to be fair. I like Jotun products: http://www.smlprotectivecoatings.co.uk/epoxyfloorpaints

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Main reason I did my floor with epoxy was because I was worried about oil spills...my thinking was that once oil gets on/in the concrete it'll be difficult for paint to stick to it so got the paint on very quickly.

I used the cheapest epoxy I could find on ebay...been totally fine. I may check the tin but I'm pretty sure it was just trade stuff instead of retail so came in unbranded tins. What was good was the larger base colour tin had enough free space to add the resin....I thought that was smart.

 

[octo0072000]

big industrial carpet tiles work well just buy a few spares to change out if you spill damage them takes a lot to get them to burn a lot cheaper than paint

 

[Wildefalcon]

Get a bag of plastering sand, dry it out and spread on the floor prior to painting, makes the surface slightly grippy.

 

[500e]

Remember not every one is starting from a new laid floor ! we used Blackfriars 2 pack floor paint & blasting sand, lasted well with jacks and things
If you spill oil CLEAN UP NOW don't leave it to be trampled around or make things slippery, or worse carried into someones pride & joy, leaving oil on floors is so 1940s

 

[cr500dom]

Jotun do a glass flake (GF) version of their Jotamastic to make the floors non slip
Be aware this is pretty aggressive and makes it a bugger to clean easily.
I prefer the “clean it up as you go” method rather than walk it around the whole shop

 

[KimB]

So I’m going to be getting on with my garage in a couple weeks and I need to buy some paint for the floor. What would people recommend?
ive seen this company which isn’t cheap but looks decent quality.
I don’t want anything too complicated because I hate painting incase anyone hasn’t realised

Garage Floor Paint | Epoxy Floor Paints & Coatings | Resincoat

Garage Floor Paint from Resincoat is a heavy duty two-part epoxy floor paint that produces a high gloss finish ideal for concrete floors in garages.

www.resincoat.co.uk

Update. I just called to ask about this and annoyingly because I didn’t dpm my garage floor they advised against resin coating it because they said it creates rising damp which will lift resin.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Mine doesn't have a dpm and it's been fine...my base is built quite high out the ground (4 inches say) but the ground itself is very boggy (if you dig a hole to put a fence post in you don't need to add any water!).

I'd say do a test patch and see what happens.