- Thread starter Shamus13
- Start date
Did a bit more investigating today with the help I got yesterday from you guys so I'll post some pics with dimensions on. The insulator is right and can't be turned around.
It appears the threads inside the torch head are nearly a couple of mm further back than what MDR reported pulling the gas lens further in. I don't know how the threads in the cup compare but as shown my sit 9mm back which is why I couldn't engage it onto the gas lens because the threads of the gas lens only protruded through the torch head and insulator. I did think that cutting back a couple of mm on the torch head would allow the cup a couple of threads but didn't want to upset how the insulator sat. Like wise I decided against sanding a couple of mm off the back of the cup so the threads reached but knew this would push the gas lens further forward.
As my back cap has a few mm spare from been fully screwed tight to the torch head and the contact threads for the gas lens sit a couple of mm further back I felt that bringing them forward would be the best remedy. I cut on my lathe a couple of copper washers down to mount at the rear of the gas lens bringing it forward 2.5mm and keeping a good contact within the head. This allowed everything to move forward without bottoming the back cap out.
When screwed together I got 2.5 rotations of the cup and it all feels study, will try it tomorrow to see how it performs. I have a WP17 torch coming which is likely to be the most used so hopefully this is just something needed for this basis 26 torch. Here's how it fits together with the shims.
Thanks for everyone's help, it helped me find where the issue lied. Hopefully the coming torch with be better and maybe in the future once I've got the basics down it may be worth investing in a more quality named brand torch and accessories but just wanted the cheap basics to allow me to practice technique and gain some practise and knowledge.
Thanks guys.
It appears the threads inside the torch head are nearly a couple of mm further back than what MDR reported pulling the gas lens further in. I don't know how the threads in the cup compare but as shown my sit 9mm back which is why I couldn't engage it onto the gas lens because the threads of the gas lens only protruded through the torch head and insulator. I did think that cutting back a couple of mm on the torch head would allow the cup a couple of threads but didn't want to upset how the insulator sat. Like wise I decided against sanding a couple of mm off the back of the cup so the threads reached but knew this would push the gas lens further forward.
As my back cap has a few mm spare from been fully screwed tight to the torch head and the contact threads for the gas lens sit a couple of mm further back I felt that bringing them forward would be the best remedy. I cut on my lathe a couple of copper washers down to mount at the rear of the gas lens bringing it forward 2.5mm and keeping a good contact within the head. This allowed everything to move forward without bottoming the back cap out.
When screwed together I got 2.5 rotations of the cup and it all feels study, will try it tomorrow to see how it performs. I have a WP17 torch coming which is likely to be the most used so hopefully this is just something needed for this basis 26 torch. Here's how it fits together with the shims.
Thanks for everyone's help, it helped me find where the issue lied. Hopefully the coming torch with be better and maybe in the future once I've got the basics down it may be worth investing in a more quality named brand torch and accessories but just wanted the cheap basics to allow me to practice technique and gain some practise and knowledge.
Thanks guys.
roblane65
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- Newcastle UK
Glad youv'e sort of worked it out, don't forget don't get hung up thinking you need the hundreds of different consumables you see on the YT vids they get them for free ! . I started with just a couple of cheap full sets (ebay specials ), think what thickness range your going to be welding and stick to that . I used a wp9 and 1.6 tungsten and nowt else. I think a light maneuverable is the best when learning so your'e not struggling with a python !, if you start with a decent torch you can always move it from machine to machine it will pay dividends . I've just ordered a full CK gas lens kit and replace parts as needed.
Thanks for the advice Roblane, much appreciated.
I received today this kit to try out a clear lens and the gas lens is slightly different been a couple of mm longer which allows me to use it without the spacers.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-1-6m...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
