Good workshop printer

[m_c]

Prusa's have a good reputation, but they're not without their flaws.
Creality win on cost, but do require a more user knowledge to get running well.

I looked at buying a Prusa instead of another Ender 3, and even with the upgrades I've added, I could buy and modify two Ender3's, and still have change to spare.
From a business perspective, two printers are going to make me more money than one.

My Voron on the other hand makes pretty much zero business sense, but it was an itch I wanted to scratch, and it's cool to see running.

 

[ukracer]

I have the textured glass bed that comes as standard. I find it very good once I stopped smearing molten kitchen paper roll all over it!

I just turned the textured glass over.
I will actually try turning it back over now I know I can get it to stick really well on flat glass. (Too well in fact at times) removing it is a bit brutal as it's single track bearing rail.

 

[indy4x]

My Ender 5 Plus is using the original glass bed but the textured side has some damage so have been using the plain glass side for over 2 years

It gets a quick dusting of 3DLac every 2 or 3 prints and maybe every 7 or 8 prints I'll take the glass bed and give it a wash with warm soapy water

I can only remember maybe 1 incident with the the part losing adhesion

Predominantly printing PLA

 

[Mr Fro]

You are starting to sound like an "Android Fanboi" here, when confronted with an iPhone..

Outrageous suggestion, I'm deeply hurt and offended.

The hobby response was to Chocco by the way, not you.

Our printers are for prototyping so get a lot of use. Pretty much everything is PLA with the occasional ABS or something else.

The guys who have played with the Creality really are printer buffs. One worked with much more snazzy printers than we have and the others all have their own and make things for the sake of it (think R2D2, stuff from lord of the rings and huge dinosaur skeletons). Each comes up with their own perfect set of parameters which work until the next print job.

Now I'm not saying that Creality are guff, merely that my experience is less than stellar. If one of the engineers is put on it then it's £150 / hr lost revenue. A couple of hours here and there and it quickly adds up to a new printer. Besides which, we're maxed out on projects and don't have the time to spend on it anyway.

/Prusa fanboi.

 

[BelgiqueB]

Well this thread got some traction

Looks like my initial problems were due to bed adhesion, for some reason my last printer bed was really good and didn't need and glue or other help to get the prints to stick, even prints without a brim or a raft stuck without issues, so i overlooked this on the new printer. The first prints i attempted on this new printer was so large that there wasn't any room left for a brim/raft therefore the prints didn't stick to this creality bed, which led to the print moving and fail.

I've reset the printer, did the leveling again and printed the same part but now split in half so i could use a raft. This time the print stuck to the bed, but still not happy with the result, as you can see in the last picture there is at some levels what I think is underextrusion. Dissappointing for a 700 euro printer, but i guess i'll have to learn to live with it until the large prusa printer is available.

/notacreality fanboi , let the time waisting / fettling begin.

 

[carbon]

What material are you printing with?
It looks like the top layers and/or wall thickness could need increasing to remove the pattern from the infill

 

[carbon]

The cracks like you have in the layer lines are usually evident when printing abs and not having the printer in a heated enclosure

 

[BelgiqueB]

The cracks like you have in the layer lines are usually evident when printing abs and not having the printer in a heated enclosure

Pla 200/60 and the printer is in an enclosure.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Pla 200/60 and the printer is in an enclosure.

I would say that the enclosure may be keeping the print too hot perhaps. I know that my enclosure gets up to about 50C sometimes and it is close to the glass point of PLA. Have a go with something tall and thin on a raft, like a temperature tower, but not in the enclosure.

 

[m_c]

You very rarely need an enclosure for PLA.

The lines do look like an extrusion issue, but I'd try without an enclosure, or at least with the enclosure open.

 

[BelgiqueB]

Rant on:

Rant off,

 

[tflnemesis]

Rant on:

The only times I have experienced layer shifts like that is because I have left something lying around that impedes the head or bed travel causing it to crash and making the belt(s) jump.
Never happened on the last layer though.