High tension bolt supplier (landrover stub axel)

[julianf]

The stub axel is held on by a set of high tension bolts - M10 x 35.

BX110076M / BX110071M - part number 22 in the diagram below -

Genuine Hubs & Driveshafts-from (v) La930456 For Land Rover Defender 1987 - 2006 (l315) | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com

The ones i have are a bit grim, so i figured id just buy new ones...

...until i found they were £6 a hit!

Bolt M10 x 35mm

BX110071M Bolt Caliper

www.paddockspares.com

Theyre M10 x 35 high tension bolts with a bit of thread lock on them...

If i wanted to buy them elsewhere, what should i be looking for (spec)?

Thank you.

 

[rtcosic]

The caliper bolts I have ever seen are 10.9 and 1mm pitch, but I cannot vouch for your specific application. The head usually has the grade marked on them - 10.9 or more rarely 12.9.

Try here.

 

[julianf]

The caliper bolts I have ever seen are 10.9 and 1mm pitch, but I cannot vouch for your specific application. The head usually has the grade marked on them - 10.9 or more rarely 12.9.

Try here.

Thank you - i dont really know why that says "caliper bolts" - i guess they must be used for calipers on another build, but, on the 300, the caliper bolts are somthing different again.

But, yes, thank you for the link - id imagine it would have the parts. These are beyond having anything legible on the head. Ill try sanding one later.

 

[julianf]

...in the photo on the shop link, you can just about read the ".9" on the head, but, sadly, not the bit before it.

Ill see if i cant find some more photos.

 

[julianf]

Does anyone know what the blue gunk is that they coat some bolts with is?

Its some sort of locking compound.

On the paddocks shop photo it seems to be pink, not blue, but i reckon its the same sort of stuff.

I guess i need to replicate that somehow.

 

[sako243]

It's just preapplied threadlock and they aren't £6/hit from a decent parts place.

Do you mean the bolts that hold the rear stub axle on? Salisbury or Rover? There's a variety of part numbers, usually under a pound a bolt.

Stub axles aren't fine threaded. Not sure I've seen a 12.9 on anything other than towbar bolts on a Defender. 10.9 in some situations (usually axle bits). If they're the front's to hold on the CV joint then they should be bihex so you can put a ring spanner on for greater torque.

 

[julianf]

It's just preapplied threadlock and they aren't £6/hit from a decent parts place.

Do you mean the bolts that hold the rear stub axle on? Salisbury or Rover? There's a variety of part numbers, usually under a pound a bolt.

300tdi 110 - salisbury, but the not the 200 one

 

[sako243]

300tdi 110 - salisbury, but the not the 200 one

Supposedly BX110076M has superceded it (M10x45) which is about £1/pop. I can't remember 100% but aren't the holes through holes so an extra 10mm won't make a difference.

How long are your existing ones?

 

[willie.macleod]

As @sako243 says they are now bi hex, UYG500050 at about 50p each.

 

[julianf]

existing ones are all 35mm

2 of the 6 have a nyloc on them, the others are through - id have to have a look to see if it would make a difference.

 

[julianf]

As @sako243 says they are now bi hex, UYG500050 at about 50p each.

Any idea how long they are?

This makes them look about the right length -

UYG500050 | BOLT M10 DOUBLE HEX - SWIVEL HOUSING TO AXLE CASE - DEFENDER | Land Rover | | Britcar (Global) Ltd

Looking for UYG500050 BOLT M10 DOUBLE HEX - SWIVEL HOUSING TO AXLE CASE - DEFENDER? Britcar can help you. View all details of this part here

britcar.com

A load of stuff on the 110 salisbury is rated higher than other builds (like you cant use certain wheels because the weight spec isnt up to it, etc)

Id assume they would be ok, but theyre puma era i think, and i dont know what the ratings of them are like. Id assume the same, but i dont know.

 

[8ob]

Bit of confusion going on here, @julianf is after the stub axle bolts, not the swivel housing bolts. They are different.

Bob

 

[Maker]

Does anyone know what the blue gunk is that they coat some bolts with is?

It's a little patch of nylon melted on as a threadlock. I don't think there's any harm replacing it with a clean bold and a dab of Loctite, the preapplied stuff is just faster if you're assembling 10,000 of them.

 

[sako243]

As @sako243 says they are now bi hex, UYG500050 at about 50p each.

Only on the fronts as @8ob says but I don't think it'll make a difference on the rear. Personally if you've got straight access onto them I'd keep the 6 sided ones. Where it's impossible like the CVs then the bihex make sense.

A load of stuff on the 110 salisbury is rated higher than other builds (like you cant use certain wheels because the weight spec isnt up to it, etc)

Id assume they would be ok, but theyre puma era i think, and i dont know what the ratings of them are like. Id assume the same, but i dont know.

The Salisbury era 110 isn't rated for anymore than more modern 110s. It's just the 110 is rated higher. Wheels yes some are only rated for a 90/Disco/RRC.

With regards to axles the P38/Wolf 110 axles are rated the same as a Salisbury. I've swapped the rear axle of mine out from a Salisbury to a P38/Wolf axle casing because Nige built a pegged Ashlocker for me (#1 ever done).

The only casing I'd avoid for reference is the newer front TDCI casings. They changed the welding process or something to do with welding on the flanges for the CV joint at the front which resulted in a number failing and the wheels falling off. The Td5 onwards front casings also had a larger diameter bolt (M16 I think rather than M14 if I remember correctly) for the pan hard rod.

 

[julianf]

Only on the fronts as @8ob says but I don't think it'll make a difference on the rear. Personally if you've got straight access onto them I'd keep the 6 sided ones. Where it's impossible like the CVs then the bihex make sense.

In summary -

Do you think the UYG500050 are good for the rear or not?

 

[8ob]

My only concern would be the clearance between the seal on the hub and the head of the bolts, the originals are low profile.

Bob

 

[julianf]

I had to get in the order, as, currently, the vehical is on stands, so I ordered the other parts and 1-off UYG500050

I can probably use the old bolts again if I'm stuck, and if UYG500050 look good, I can get some of them locally.

All this to remove (not even replace) the half shaft seal!

(I checked I had the gasket before taking it apart... turns out the gasket I have is a look-alike but for something else...)

 

[sako243]

All this to remove (not even replace) the half shaft seal!

I've got Ashcroft drive flanges (others are now available) and since fitting them never bothered replacing the halfshaft seals. It leaks some oil through but I've never had to do a bearing or anything since then - it helps with the lubrication no end.

 

[julianf]

I've got Ashcroft drive flanges (others are now available) and since fitting them never bothered replacing the halfshaft seals. It leaks some oil through but I've never had to do a bearing or anything since then - it helps with the lubrication no end.

Exactly what im doing.

 

[sako243]

No need to actually pull the seal. Mine are still in there, just leak.