Home garage design ideas

[W.olly]

Well while we are at faffing doing the house up, windows next month happy days. Andnew drive asap i want to start to design the detached garage i want to build, it will be a DIY job and outside dimensions of 27` x 17`. Lets say i have planning permission to get that otu th way. We got it for a large cony and that is going to be replaced with this.

It will built from breeze block, the block size ? but for the front that will be matching brick with the house. A single 10` wide door. It will be lined with 100mm Celotex and ply lined with 6mm ply.

Now what i need to work on is the gantry i want to build into it. this is a rough, very rough sketch to what i think will work but not sure how to build the gantry into the build.

Yellow beam being the main runner.And obviously more trusses. Also pillars along the side. I want these trusses so i get more head room as this will be built to the 2.5m eaves and 4m overall height for ease of the PP. I say ease as it will be built towards a highway to the right of it. House is to the left divided by a 3.5` alley way which goes all around it. If th eaves are ok it will in my reckoning give a 10` height by 10 ` width. entrance

So do you think the trusses will be ok and how to build in the gantry.

If this is to complex to discuss this is there a good online programme to work with fro a DIY`er ?

cheers

Captain Faffer

 

[Fazerruss]

Why celotex and ply line?
Just build a proper cavity walled structure with DPC and cavity wall insulation. It will more likely be cheaper and it will be a stronger building.

 

[dieselsamurai]

dont use 6mm ply you'll regret it, if you use 18mm with studwork screwed to the breezeblock at reasonable centers you can crew almost anything to it anywhere (within reason!)

 

[addjunkie]

Why celotex and ply line?
Just build a proper cavity walled structure with DPC and cavity wall insulation. It will more likely be cheaper and it will be a stronger building.

This was my thoughts too, kingspan etc is blooming expensive. Also if you want to support a lifting frame, the proper walls will need beefing up to take the weight, so may as well do it properly.

Raised leg trusses that youve pictured do increase the space volume, a fair bit, Ive used them on my barn, however they are roughly twice the price of the normal or fink trusses, due to requiring much larger timbers.

As for supporting the beam, I beams are roughly 6 meters long, but to reduce beam size and weight to get it in with out a crane, your going to need calcs done, and multiple support frames mirrowing your trusses. Or use all steel trusses the roof on top of the steel. All depends on your roofing choices. Steel trusses, with purlings at abot 1 meter spacing and insulated box profile, or imitation roof tile insulated sheet, might be an option.

What weight is the beam to lift?

 

[gaz1]

please do not build it in crap cheap breeze block the pennies you save are not worth it in the years to come

 

[Olderisbetter]

please do not build it in crap cheap breeze block the pennies you save are not worth it in the years to come

A guy i know did his in thermalite block and when he tried to fit a few shelves he realised they had very little strength after you stick any weight on them.

 

[dieselsamurai]

Breeze blocks to me mean the lightwieght celcon ones and they are for internal use really unless clad, build it in concrete blocks but either waterproof render them or clad otherwise you will have masive damp issues. I built my workshop from concrete blocks and so far pretty happy but 3 sides are not exposed to the weather even so i painted them with bitumen paint 3coats

 

[dieselsamurai]

@Olderisbetter thats another good point celcon/thermalite are useless for holding any wieght for a wall fixing. The only good thing is really easy to cut with a handsaw

 

[gaz1]

start to design the detached garage i want to build, it will be a DIY job and outside dimensions of 27` x 17`. Lets say i have planning permission to get that otu th way. We got it for a large cony and that is going to be replaced with this.

It will built from breeze block, the block size ? but for the front that will be matching brick with the house. A single 10` wide door. It will be lined with 100mm Celotex and ply lined with 6mm ply.

Now what i need to work on is the gantry i want to build into it. this is a rough, very rough sketch to what i think will work but not sure how to build the gantry into the build.

Yellow beam being the main runner.And obviously more trusses. Also pillars along the side. I want these trusses so i get more head room as this will be built to the 2.5m eaves and 4m overall height for ease of the PP. I say ease as it will be built towards a highway to the right of it. House is to the left divided by a 3.5` alley way which goes all around it. If th eaves are ok it will in my reckoning give a 10` height by 10 ` width. entrance

So do you think the trusses will be ok and how to build in the gantry.

If this is to complex

your going to regret a single door opening even with 4x2 and 11mm osb both sides with 4" insulation a door just short of 8ft wide by 8ft 6" was a very heavy door to fit ask @Burdekin as he helped me fit that door onto the sliding rail
I had refused the help then changed my mind to fit it

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/workshop-build.83872/page-5

dont know what you plan with that centre beam weight wise but the span is going to mean one hell of weight of beam unless you intend to strengthen that middle section up some how

 

[dieselsamurai]

needs an RSJ at door end 90deg to it , ok at back wall as can be built into concrete wall on a wide padstone. Door end needs pillars either side built up in blocks to meet the RSJ. Like @addjunkie said really depends on the application you want it for

 

[Screwdriver]

Dont know the correct name for it but I'd go for a travelling beam. Then you'd have two I beams, one at either end (one could be a lintel) and the main beam as per your diagram could also travel left/right. Swap them around if you need higher capacity lifting. Wish I'd built that into my shed.

 

[dieselsamurai]

Im sure theres a post on here somewhere where another member did that. I planned for it in my workshop just need to get a few projects out of the way before i do it. The only issue i can see is keeping the travelling beam 90deg to the fixed ones if for some reason it twists could be a big problem. I might have to make custom dolleys either end kinda whats put it on the back burner for the moment. I can see why the OP wants that center beam though handy for lots of things

 

[Olderisbetter]

I like the idea of the beam front to rear it can be an good thing for loading and unloading and getting things from one end of the shed to the other, I have one going side to side in my garage for getting engines out and them moving them to the side of the cars. The wide door sounds good but the weight and leverage it will have against hinges would be savage, Unless you are using a track.
We made the ones for my garage out of box section and cladded them to match the building but they were so heavy we ended up using 3 weld on hinges rated at 125 kg each per door. that was for and opening 2.4m x 2.4m

 

[atomant48]

We’ve just had ours finished - quite similar in dimensions.

1. Definitely go for cavity wall. I had the architect change this and it’s fantastic in there over these past couple weeks. Means I’m happy in there at night rather than running in and out as fast as I could like the concrete prefab previously. It’s only 300 thick (compared to 350 on house i think) render, breeze block, air gap, solid concrete block.
2. Ceiling / joist heoght as high as poss. I’ve mounted a sliding bike rack to the joists and all our bikes hang above headheight. Makes much more space on the floor.
3. Electrics. Plan what you think you need and double the sockets. Wish I had.
4. Door - I’ve got a hormann insulated roller and it seems brilliant for keeping cold out.

 

[dobbslc]

@atomant48 have you insulated the cavity? I'm looking to build this,

Funds are tight so I was thinking about single skin then stud and board on the inside.
I know it won't be as good though

 

[Screwdriver]

For stuff like this I can wholeheartedly recommend Sketchup. It is very (very) easy to pick up thoguh the simplicity does get in the way for complex stuff. I did my shed with it. Right down to the last brick...

Since it's little more than a simple box, it's easy to get the dimensions you want and see where any problems may be. As you can see, I drew mine out on a land registry map but you don't have to go that far. I did it because this is an excerpt of the entire property including house and garages (not shown).

 

[gaz1]

@atomant48 have you insulated the cavity? I'm looking to build this,
Funds are tight so I was thinking about single skin then stud and board on the inside.
I know it won't be as good though

single skin is fine as long as you take into consideration attaching things to walls becomes a pain certain parts needs to be strengthened

also note your planning a loft area as well care to say how big as effects your internal wooding frame

 

[bigegg]

nobody's mentioned floor/foundation, but if you are pouring a new base, set a couple (at least) of 4" steel beams of some type (RSJ, channel or even angle) in the concrete - then if you need a "come along" or to tack something huge up, you can weld directly to it.

 

[DaveB]

There are limits to how long a single skin wall should be without adding piers for extra stablility, probably should be closer together if you have a roof on top as the roof can generate loads that push outwards.
The piers don't have to be on the inside.

 

[knighty]

View attachment 166363

I'd do what gaz1 said, but I'd put a triangle ontop/between the red upright beams, so you can run another beam along above the yellow beam then join the two together (yellow and one above it) - can't remember the name for it... join them together with lots of triangles... it'll be much stronger for the same weight, and a lot less flex