homemade steel truss i beam

[Stupoty]

all britains spend time eating fish and chips and getting drunked of guinnes bear...

Tbh. sounds like quite a nice evening to me



Stu

 

[u facciolu]

practically the engineer told me to take into account 400-600 kg per square meter, but we are at sea level it does not snow the problem is the wind therefore he suggests me to insert bracing bolts chevron beams to counteract the lateral action and the thrust of the wind , they are deadly gusts, the fear is that if it is not well anchored to the building, a gust of strong wind will uproot it and carry it away like a kite, what do you recommend? thank you for your kind availability.

the engineer recommended drilled plates and bolts to connect everything, a professional welder friend of mine recommended practicing big and strong welds to join the various joints.

:

 

[Bornfree]

^^ Are building regs likely to be the in Italy as here?

Don't think so. Look at that tower in pisa proper Friday afternoon job.

 

[u facciolu]

you say that the videos of the roofs are conceived with a "pig's eye", or very approximate, a question, if I may, could someone tell me about the chevron beams, in Italian I think they are bolts or braces, they are connected to the risers and crossbars of the vertical beams by means of plates and handkerchiefs, I think they are used to fortify the portals thanks, sorry for the disturbance.

chevron braced frames​

Gusset?? Stiffeners???

 

[gaz1]

I see you got no help or advice and ive been watcing

so

you need to make a precast concrete block on top of the building columns they will take the small amount of weight but you will need to grind into the roof to create a better joint by about 1" sunk into the roof do ot use a hammer jack best to grind out as much as you can before using a hammer and chisel to break out enough

then you need to bend those rebars into a different shape or just bend close to the top of the concrete pad this is so the concrete pad attaches to the building correctly

the term that you need to look at is concrete column to steel column connection

you have to build a wide enough post for strength and also to tie down the new roof thats going onto it

Construction details. CYPE. EAM027: Connection of a concrete beam or continuous slab on a concrete column below and steel column above.

yours isnt wide enough due to the rebars in the way

do not build a pad point where there is no column below it only use the rebar points as they should be columns of the building

you will have to rebar the concrete pad and also bolt it at the same time as its worth doing in one go

then you can swap to a low lying roof

 

[gaz1]

post 22 first post is wrong second red post is right as sits on a concrete column when it should have had 2 concrete columns to fasten too and also has the strength to hold the roof up
the brick side of it can fail as there isnt even a pad stone under it to properly support it

whilst they have used z beams for connections between the steel rafters to the roof metal roof

 

[u facciolu]

in essence " on the structural node corresponding to the pillar upright column I should make a correct plinth, in correspondence with the beam of the attic you say not to drill and put the expansion pins to anchor the holding plates to the attic correct? I do the roof lower than 2.50 meters as if I made it higher in altitude it would be "habitable, and according to the cadastral laws it would be a room subject to cadastral income and I would have to pay taxes, mind I do it 1.90, 1.80 attic type and I use it only as cover to protect the right building'? Thanks, sorry for the inconvenience.

https://cdn-01.media-brady.com/store/stit/media/catalog/product/d/m/dmeu_ramcfix1_1_std.lang.all.jpg

Unioni III. Saldate. Telai con profilati laminati e saldati a doppio T

 

[Sergei Slovenija]

If we approach the problem from the point of view of the theory of solving inventive problems, or at least from the basics of functional cost analysis, then .. why do we need an expensive roof (canopy) when a membrane (PVC for example) operated roof + gutters will fulfill this task. It remains to arrange olive and orange trees in pots, sun loungers, tents and maybe a jacuzzi. And other barbecue grills. There will also be room for table tennis.

Pardon for my French.

 

[gaz1]

its not been asked of

but i can see possible problems with the property surrounding it for a good water tight roof

your trying to create this on top of your column

a square big enough and strong enough to hold that roof down its sort of like the anchor bolts to the concrete foundation refernce but this is on top of the column
where the column rebar needs to be bent inside of the concrete in middle of it prefered with strengtheners and also bolts ready for connection to the steel pillars that also needs support and strength

concrete does shrink

if you want you can use this but you still want strength and wide enough to support

but you must connect the buildings rebar to the new concrete pillar/support

personally id pick the first one above and shrink it down to a smaller square whilst lowering the height so the new ancor bolts can properly fasten to the new base

I repeat again do not drill any part of that pillar or roof if you do it mail fail due to you drilling it

the bolt you pointed to is a drill type it must not be used

 

[u facciolu]

Thanks your precious suggestions I understood that I had to use the top of the pillar as a plinth with the structural node, but I don't know how to anchor it firmly, I'm afraid that the surface of the roof becomes a sail and flies during strong gusts of wind. one thing if I may ask, I should anchor the pillars and place longitudinal ridge beams on them like spar or create transversal portal structures and place the beams on them on which to fix the roof as the best solution in your opinion, clearly then I have to chain the structure with the bracing, right? thank you greetings, I hope I was clear in explaining my project.

 

[gaz1]

the anchor points are the original rebar

thats why you need to shape and reconcrete the original rebar into its own column pad base but in this case on top of the roof area

its strengthened for support of the new roof steel going onto it as well as supported by the original column

the column pad is just used as a strengthened connection to the steel structure

depending on your column size whilst im using the building next door to it with higher columns to the roof then your columns should be around the same with only 4 rebars in it as strengtheners

lets say your column is 18" and those coloumns apeared to go higher roughly 3-4ft higher then that column can still support a concrete pad of 20-22" wide x 1-2ft high pad and the column will still support it it will be around 16" high pad base roughly or less

because you grinded into the concrete by 1" you create a stop gap for side to side movement therefore locking it into the structure and can seal with rubber or alternative as concrete does shrink rubber seal is used on garages to seal them also as expansion joints

once that pad is built you can bolt the steels to the center of the column pad support which holds down the roof to the building

 

[u facciolu]

thanks for the valuable advice basically I should make real plinths, I wanted to make an assembly jig a template and make the holding plates and insert them directly into the rebars that come out of the attic and then bend them hot with a torch , but I think they are ineffective and unsuitable for the purpose they are now rusty and oxidized thanks for your right advice, as regards the frame of the roof I would like to do it in half pitch, you advise me to make trusses or directly support the inclined beams on the risers portal type, as columns I think a 100 mm h is suitable, for the ipe beam I am hesitant I think a 160 mm section ipe is too heavy, what do you think? thank you.

Tabella Profilati metallici - Travi HEA

www.oppo.it

Travi IPE e NP - Monza e Brianza | F.lli Molteni spa

TRAVI IPE Normali profilo NP Dimensioni mm Peso Kg/m Dimensioni mm Peso Kg/m h b a e h b a e 80 x 46 x 3,8 x 5,2 6,0 80 x 42 x 3,9 x 5,9 5,94 100 x 55 x 4,1 x 5,7 8,1 100 x 50 x 4,5 x 6,8

www.moltenifratelli.it

Tabella Profilati metallici - Travi IPE

www.oppo.it

 

[gaz1]

can you give me the height at the front from the concrete roof to the height of the metal roof

to the maximum height on the rear of the building

remember those columns are based on low weight and they are already supporting the concrete roof already

so the less weight in steel is the desired method as strengthening those columns is not something you want to do

 

[Farside]

It would be the same if I would say "... you know , all britains spend time eating fish and chips and getting drunked of guinnes bear... " , it would be just a bit stupid isn't it ?!

That certainly describes a younger me.

 

[u facciolu]

the pillars of the attic are 2.70 cm
I would like to make the cover above 2.30 cm lower and 1.80 cm higher,
the chevron braces I don't know how to conceive and size to counteract the action of lateral wind gusts. thank you.

 

[gaz1]

your dealing with a z purlin roof and structure

z purlin roof - Google Search

i will give you this one for pointers with sealing also a handy way for the tops being curved up as well with a homemade tool

z purlin/ c channel use

 

[u facciolu]

thank you for your kind help, I should also build a small mobile scaffolding equipped with wheels and side hoist to set up the structure and carry out the work in elevation.