how hard or easy is arc welding ?

[rich r]

If you're using 1.6mm, 2.0mm or 2.5mm rods (which would be suitable for metal between about 2.0mm and 5mm) then you can use a normal 13A supply for pretty much everything. Ideally you don't want to be at the end of 100m of extension leads, but for lower currents it's not too bad. For 3.2mm rods you're right on the limit and so a 16A supply is really what you need.

Inverter welders can do all kinds of clever things with the current to help start the arc and prevent the rod sticking as they actively monitor the current and voltage as it changes depending on what the arc is doing. So for example when a rod is about to stick it'll detect the sudden drop in voltage and reduce the current, and hence the heat in the arc until the rod has been moved a bit then it'll increase it again. Whereas a simple buzzbox is just a constant current supply really.

If your boat trailer plans involve welding something like 3mm steel outside then MMA with 2.5mm 6013 rods would be spot on.

 

[BrokenBiker]

If you're using 1.6mm, 2.0mm or 2.5mm rods (which would be suitable for metal between about 2.0mm and 5mm) then you can use a normal 13A supply for pretty much everything. Ideally you don't want to be at the end of 100m of extension leads, but for lower currents it's not too bad. For 3.2mm rods you're right on the limit and so a 16A supply is really what you need.

Inverter welders can do all kinds of clever things with the current to help start the arc and prevent the rod sticking as they actively monitor the current and voltage as it changes depending on what the arc is doing. So for example when a rod is about to stick it'll detect the sudden drop in voltage and reduce the current, and hence the heat in the arc until the rod has been moved a bit then it'll increase it again. Whereas a simple buzzbox is just a constant current supply really.

If your boat trailer plans involve welding something like 3mm steel outside then MMA with 2.5mm 6013 rods would be spot on.

i have to disagree a little bit with the bit about needing 16A supply for 3.2mm rods...i have regularly run 3.2's on a 13A supply with my parweld. ive gotten it up to 140A without any issues and a 4mm rod but have had no need to go higher than that

 

[rich r]

Originally I typed 'you'll be fine with 3.2mm rods on a 13A supply as long as you keep the current down and don't mind replacing the fuse or resetting the breaker occasionally' but then deleted it and went for something simpler

But yes, I agree you can manage on a 13A supply for 3.2mm most of the time. It's probably more a function of the actual welding machine and your wiring as to how high you can push the current before you start popping the breaker. I'd probably still stand by a 16A supply being more ideal if you've got one just so you're not forever popping plug fuses and resetting the breakers

 

[God mode restorations]

I really enjoy arc welding. Every process can be difficult and at times very frustrating. But once mastered can be brilliant machines to use. I sometimes struggle with vertical up and down and have been arc welding for a long while. But don't be put off. Once you get your self a machine and get the basics down you will wonder why you didn't get one before

 

[Mr Fro]

Dick - I converted a caravan base to a motorbike trailer with an arc welder with only a bit of practice on a old buzz box. The metal was generally around 2-3mm and I didn't go through unless I muffed up on an edge.

To be fair, I did have to grind a few welds out and re-do them but it handles 200kg of bike without falling apart like a clown car.

If you're a bit handy then you'll be fine if you do a bit of reading and have a practice.

 

[tlovatt]

i plan on welding up a lightweight boat trailor for an inflatable so i reckon the metal wont be that heavy duty but having had probs with MIG because of the inadequate electricl supplies which will soon be upgraded ,i thought i would try other types as just fancy learning other welding systems ,what supplies will i need as regards elecs and gas??rods?

A couple of points do not seem to have been answered yet:

For Arc welding you do not need any gas, you essentially have the welder (which is just a power supply) with an earth lead and an electrode holder. The electrodes are flux coated which as they melt form a shield the protect the weld from oxidation. This gives the advantage that you can weld outside and in the wind without too much problem.

Unlike MIG where you set the current based upon the thickness of the work you are welding, with arc you set the current according to the type and size of electrode (rod) you are using.

To begin with Arc welding you need the welder, some electrodes, the usual PPE and a chipping hammer as the flex coating leaves a slag layer on top of the weld that needs to be removed. If you get really good then the flux will fall off on its own (or so I am told).

You get lots of different types of electrode, for general mild steel work you are probably best with 6013 (this is the type of rod) and then either 2.5mm or 3.2mm rods. Larger rods are easier to learn with as the burn down slower making it easier to keep a constant distance from the weld pool, but they you need a higher current from your welder and may run into problems blowing holes. You may also run into duty problems with the welder (how long it can run for until you have to stop and let it cool down). Some people do also allow a bit of extra capacity in the welder above the recommended current range of the electrodes for when they weld through rust and paint - obviously such a thing should not really be done but if you ever need a quick fix in a rush an Arc welder will do it.

Buy a welder that has an anti-stick function and buy decent quality electrodes (visit you local welding supplies place) the difference between crap and good rods is only a few quid and it makes a big difference in the weldability

 

[rich r]

You don't even have to get really good for the slag to peel off, just competent - I get peelers with Aldi rods on and Aldi buzzbox almost all the time if I've prepared the metal properly and the joint is nice and open. Corners and positions other than flat are where you need to really pay attention to not getting slag inclusions and where you can get slag that requires chipping or brushing to remove.

Definitely get decent rods though, especially whilst you're learning. Avoid anything that's been rebranded as you don't know what the original source was for that box so they may not behave the same as your last box (I've been lucky with Aldi ones, but I prefer the box of 10 year old Fincords that I got given).

 

[BrokenBiker]

a peeler doesnt always mean a good weld, but usually its a good sign...ideally you want slag that either lifts on its own or comes off with no effort...if you have to smash hell out of it with a chipping hammer then you are doing something wrong...

fillets are one of the worst for slag not wanting to come off, especially if you have a bit of undercut when welding...you can get to the point where you can scrape slag rathe than bash it off quite quickly with maybe hafl a box of rods to practice with...after that its keeping into it and getting consistent

 

[Kent]

If you know you have power supply issues stick with a 2.5 mm rod! You can do most things with one at a push if required.
3.2 mm if the supply is good
Most small inverters won't run 4 mm good but some will - they should pop 13 amp fuses easy if your running hot enough

The only hard things about mma is positional and working with thin sheet. Straight forwards flat welding isn't really much harder if at all than mig

 

[DennisCA]

a young guy at the garage where i take my car exclaimed worry when i said i wanted to buy an arc welder
saying things like 'you need to take a course to get to grips with it' and' hard to learn bla bla bla '
so what gives ?? he really put me off getting an arc welder

Never taken a course in anything. Just got some tips, watched some videos (loads), padded beads, watched more videos, padded more beads, just keep on doing it. I learned on a single phase rectifier that's very stick prone.

 

[Kent]

Courses are only ever as good as the instructor. Some are awesome others pathetic
How do you know what you got at first kick off?

 

[KemppiFrog]

If you are going to do structural welding on a road trailer, do get a bit of practise first... Personally, I learned because I wanted to build a better soap box than the wooden ones my friends had. But, I did have a pro to look over my shoulder from time to time and point out what I was doing wrong. I was eleven at the time. The material was thinnish tube and bar, so quite a steep curve.
If you can find someone who give you a few pointers on your tecnique, it will help loads in the early stages. Posting photos on here will get quality critique from the usual suspects. Doesn't matter how bad your welds look, put them up. The answers will speed you on.

 

[dick]

had a quick go with my weldmate arc/tig and yes it does stick ! one 2mm rod got really hot yellow colour ,so how to avoid this probelem??had to switch off the machine to seperate them

 

[Richard.]

had a quick go with my weldmate arc/tig and yes it does stick ! one 2mm rod got really hot yellow colour ,so how to avoid this probelem??had to switch off the machine to seperate them

If your rods are glowing before they are Down to the stub your running them well beyond there current range.

 

[rich r]

How to avoid the rod glowing? Don't let it stick Sometimes it's unavoidable though in which case you should turn just off the power or simply eject the rod from the holder then unstick it.

You need to practice keeping the arc length correct - aim for about 1-2mm. Also try angling the rod so you're dragging it at 45 degrees (ie like drawing a line with a pencil). That'll mean it's much less likely to stick, but you won't get a great weld and you'll spray bits all over the place. Then try reducing the angle until you get it to around 10-15 degrees off vertical. By the time you've run a few beads on some flat plate doing that you'll have much better control of the arc length and probably a bit of an idea of the speed you need to move at too. Quite often with 2.5mm 6013 rods you can just drag them lightly across the surface with the coating touching and the width of the flux coating on the rod will maintain the correct distance.

 

[macandmoss]

Stick welding was easier than I thought once I just stopped worrying about it and just had a go ,have a place with no power and also some welding to some fencing down a field i have ,bought a diesel stick welder and some old welding rods from a boot sale , cleaned the old rod ends with wire wool and just went for it ..lol ,did small beads at first ,cleaned them up and then joined the welds together. Now I can run decent beads after more practice even with the crap old rods I have , I think it's just mind over matter and having a go

 

[dick]

quickly got the knack and really enjoy it as it just needs a delicate touch .easier to build a pool of weld than mig i am finding ,great system to use ,just need to get the amps spot on for the rod i am using and its a cinch .thanks for the comments

 

[rich r]

Excellent - now you've got started, have a read and watch of the various tutorials before you develop bad habits I can recommend the ones at the top of the page here, and also various videos such as this one:

Maybe get some bits of metal like you're wanting to use for your project and practice on those so you work out what current and technique works best.