- Thread starter Phil_D
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123hotchef
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i used it to slurry my block work before rendering and dashing
Pete.
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I tried several paints which all came up with the surface before biting the bullet and grinding a couple of mm off the surface. Now I have a nice solid floor that hasn't needed another coat of paint in years and releases no dust. Important if you're into scraping as it messes up the bluing process.
Get a 9" grinder, a diamond cup wheel and make or buy a vacuum dust shroud. Hook it to a cheap hoover and grind the top down. You'll fill a rubble sack with dust for every 10 square metres grinding.
Get a 9" grinder, a diamond cup wheel and make or buy a vacuum dust shroud. Hook it to a cheap hoover and grind the top down. You'll fill a rubble sack with dust for every 10 square metres grinding.
brightspark
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god that's a messy horrible job ive used one
not a fast job neither
mike os
just a little insane.....
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Watering can is what we use on site
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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I hired a concrete floor grinder thing. Didn't hire an industrial vacuum, after 3 seconds I had to stop, as I was in a cloud of concrete dust. Live and learn.
pandemonium123
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SBR mixed with pure cement & rollered on. To seal & create waterproof bonding layer.
Then a few bags of self leveling compound to smooth off.
Dry, scour then paint with epoxy.
Then a few bags of self leveling compound to smooth off.
Dry, scour then paint with epoxy.
pandemonium123
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The concrete hardener is worth a try first
3 5l cans for a double garage & it's cheap on Amazon.
It can take 2 days & 2 coats to apply properly.
Pour it on, brush it around & walk away.
3 5l cans for a double garage & it's cheap on Amazon.
It can take 2 days & 2 coats to apply properly.
Pour it on, brush it around & walk away.
Barking Mat
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@pandemonium123 what did you use? I found mine, a waste of time and money.
It wasn't a huge surface, I ended up using 5 litres, three coats on less than 10m2.
Still dusty. Ill paint or lino it, it is a bathroom.
It wasn't a huge surface, I ended up using 5 litres, three coats on less than 10m2.
Still dusty. Ill paint or lino it, it is a bathroom.
Do you need a special roller to do this, i.e not a paint roller? Sounds like a good recipe for our drive, I can try.
pandemonium123
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Same stuff you pictured, but I used on a c35 grade concrete.
For a bathroom I would do the SBR + cement & level method. If tiling scour any latence off & prime again with something like mapie primer then tile.
pandemonium123
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A decent paint roller works fine, but the leveling compound prob wouldn't be suitable for a drive, re pour 4" concrete on top with expansion joints every 6m.
Get the fibre reinforced grade for good measure.
pandemonium123
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Get a pin level rake or a spiked roller for the self leveling compound.
Are expansion joints just cuts into the top surface of the pad?
Thanks for the help
Barking Mat
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From what I have gathered from the hive mind of this forum, expansion joints are only for massive areas. My kitchen is 55m2 and back room 75m2. Doesn't need expansion joints. Might want to look at steel reinforcement mesh if you're driving vans or lorries over it.
Yes, expansion joints are just cut in from my understanding.
Yes, expansion joints are just cut in from my understanding.
premmington
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I have had some real problems with using water based PVA to seal concrete workshop floors - then over painting them.
PVA will dissolve with water and you can get a real wet white creamy mess - with sheets of grey floor paint floating about.
Solvent based concrete hardener is the best choice.
I have thinned down some solvent based floor paint for the first "priming coat" rather than use PVA (on a Sunday when the shops are shut).
Things I have learned in my years of repairing workshop floors are:
1. Forget PVA - dismiss it from your mind.
2. Buy fibre reinforced self levelling compound - high wear surface stuff it it worth the money - costs about 50% more and worth every extra penny.
3. Plain water is better to give you longer drying times with self levelling compound - never use PVA
4. 9" normal emulsion painting rollers on a long handle are the best thing for applying anything to an existing workshop floor.
5. Floor paint needs air circulation to dry - I bought a 36" fan for the job - with a big fan you can even paint floors with lower winter temperatures.
PVA will dissolve with water and you can get a real wet white creamy mess - with sheets of grey floor paint floating about.
Solvent based concrete hardener is the best choice.
I have thinned down some solvent based floor paint for the first "priming coat" rather than use PVA (on a Sunday when the shops are shut).
Things I have learned in my years of repairing workshop floors are:
1. Forget PVA - dismiss it from your mind.
2. Buy fibre reinforced self levelling compound - high wear surface stuff it it worth the money - costs about 50% more and worth every extra penny.
3. Plain water is better to give you longer drying times with self levelling compound - never use PVA
4. 9" normal emulsion painting rollers on a long handle are the best thing for applying anything to an existing workshop floor.
5. Floor paint needs air circulation to dry - I bought a 36" fan for the job - with a big fan you can even paint floors with lower winter temperatures.
We should be okay then; our drive isn't massive and uses plenty of mesh and rebar... surface is just a mess so I need to do some work on it.
brightspark
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expansion joints just cut in 25 percent of depth of concrete 
Pete.
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I doubt you'll have expansion joint issues in that stone building, but I'd make sure there was a movement gap around the walls.
