How To Tighten Up These Fittings & Everything All Level?

[Pollys13]

The fittings etc are going to be raised up on wooden blocks so all the pipes and fittings line up, equal distance from the backing wall board.
The problem I'm thinking I might encounter is. To tighten up all the fittings airtight, the pipes and joints will be all askew not lining up equal distance from wall board, all clean and tidy. I think I read that Loctite 572 didn't have to be done up really tight to get an airtight seal. So using the Loctite allows me a certain amount of maneuvering to line the pipes and fittings well. I'm only using low air pressures around 5 psi, yes 5 psi.
I had thought of using yellow gas grade ptfe tape but I think I would encounter the same problem tightening and lining up.
Any advice welcome.
Cheers.

 

[rory1]

Just use ptfe tape. Do the fittings up hand tight and then An extra turn or so to tighten, if the fitting doesn't line up then tighten it some more.

 

[Jim Davey]

Don't go nuts on the tightening, taper threads and brass fittings have a habit of splitting if you overdo it.

 

[8ob]

All of the above advice and one more, forget the blocks of wood and use munsen rings and backplates to support the assembly . The rod between the backplate and munsen rings is only studding so easy to trim and adjust for standoff, they will also withstand the abuse of pushing the airline connectors together and screwing the assembly together. Just thoughts.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Malleable...1b2d75a&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=7&sd=331862970835

Bob

 

[Chris Stevens]

PTFE tape and careful tightening will seal it ok though, but I get the feeling you will need to change it pretty soon unless you are just wanting to blow out carbs or pump up tyres maybe, as it looks like it wont handle much flow?

 

[jimi_boom]

If your only running 5PSI as above don't evn bother with Loctite. Even with the Loctite you should always do the fittings at least "nip tight" I would use the PTFE tape

 

[Jim Davey]

I'd sure hate to get Munsoned...

 

[eSCHEn]

Munsen rings FTW every time.

If you're cheap you can screw the studding into the base material (I resin them into walls) and tada! Done!

Onions are good to be able to break apart a system logically. So around a part that may/likely need replacement in future.

 

[Pollys13]

All of the above advice and one more, forget the blocks of wood and use munsen rings and backplates to support the assembly . The rod between the backplate and munsen rings is only studding so easy to trim and adjust for standoff, they will also withstand the abuse of pushing the airline connectors together and screwing the assembly together. Just thoughts.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Malleable-Iron-Munsen-Ring-Baseplate-Steel-Rod-Black-Galv-Pipe-Clip-hanger/331951531114?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=20140107083358&meid=91783caee03746ddb0447da2e1b2d75a&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=7&sd=331862970835

Bob

Yep, I think munsen rings are the way to go cheers. Besides the ply board you see things laid out on.I already have a 18mm ply mounting board very securely bolted into the dry wall. The Jet water traps mounting, screwed in the 18mm ply, would the ply be strong enough to support it? The other 8 mm board I laid things out on. I was going to assemble on that then screw that into the 18mm ply board already on the wall. I could still do this and would mean I could use longer screws to support things? I think I will still need a couple of wooden noggins to mount the two small pressure gauges to provide a stand off to be in line with the Jet water trap?
How many munsen rings would you say to use and where?
Thanks.

 

[Pollys13]

To make sure everything lines up and seals properly you could use flat or cone unions...

View attachment 91026

Means you can get every joint appropriately tightened without compromising alignment.

I Googled, flat, cone unions but didn't find any information. These flat, cone unions, would be used with the elbows and stuff I already have? If so can you give me an Ebay link to what I'm looking for?
Cheers.

 

[Pollys13]

Munsen rings FTW every time.

If you're cheap you can screw the studding into the base material (I resin them into walls) and tada! Done!

Onions are good to be able to break apart a system logically. So around a part that may/likely need replacement in future.

What are onions, Ebay link? thanks.

 

[Pollys13]

If your only running 5PSI as above don't evn bother with Loctite. Even with the Loctite you should always do the fittings at least "nip tight" I would use the PTFE tape

OK just requested return for Loctite from Ebay. cheers.

 

[eSCHEn]

Sorry, onions == unions. Bit of heating engineer/plumber humour there

 

[waddycall]

I think you may be overthinking it. Put 8 - 10 wraps of standard PTFE on the threads assemble, tighten and stop when the pipes are aligned and you don't think you'll get another full turn in. Dead easy. There's no point bothering with unions on that especially if it's all mounted on Munson rings. When you're finished go around the joints with a junior hacksaw blade to take the excess PTFE off.

 

[Pollys13]

I made a typo not 5 psi should have put 40 psi. Am i still OK to seal the joints with yellow air ptfe?

 

[Pollys13]

By the way, what are you doing with 5psi air?

40 psi, etching glass.

 

[wristpin]

Not sure of the product number but we put an air "ring main" right round our workshop using Loctite Hydraulic Seal ,doing up the pipes just over hand tight with no leaks over twenty plus joints.

 

[brightspark]

Not sure of the product number but we put an air "ring main" right round our workshop using Loctite Hydraulic Seal ,doing up the pipes just over hand tight with no leaks over twenty plus joints.

id be on my back after 20 joints

 

[Pollys13]

Not sure of the product number but we put an air "ring main" right round our workshop using Loctite Hydraulic Seal ,doing up the pipes just over hand tight with no leaks over twenty plus joints.

OK thanks.

 

[dannyp]

i've been trying to rest saying this but i'm going to have to.

why so meany compact 90 fittings ? and they are running downhill from what i guess in the main air line.

last air plumbing i did, i T'ed out of the air main with the T pointing uphill, and bent a copper U bend to bring my outlet down the wall. then the inline pressure regulators like you have tweek the gadgue so you can mount them with the air inlet and outlet vertical. withe the gadue still the right way up and the adjustmet knob stick out hrizontal, it should work out that turning the knob up = more pressure, down = less. so should be fully ocd compliant, less joints = less chance of leack, less restiction and less cost.