- Thread starter Big Mick
- Start date
scarecrow
Outstanding in his field
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- 1,622
here is a tread that should help you out in has its advantages and disadvantages the biggest disadvantage is it tends to leak oil not much but it does seep a bit which can air lock it also the jack is tied up. with the other system you can take the jack out at any time and use it for something else
Some more progress. On the price of steel, I picked this up from my local scrapyard. Looks like it came off the Titanic, but it was cheap. 450mmx295mmx17mm(ish) for £1.89 (it was all I had in my pocket).
5 mins. with the big grinder and now we have the jack mounting plate.
Cheers, Mick.
5 mins. with the big grinder and now we have the jack mounting plate.
Cheers, Mick.
Today's effort.
I have finally decided to fit the jack normal way up, so I then moved on to making the jack mount/tool holder.
First I measured the gap inside the legs, then welded some 25mm box to the jack plate, giving about 1 - 2mm clearance either end.
Next I welded some 16mm round bar to the insides of the legs to act as guides for the jack.
More tomorrow, hopefully.
Cheers, Mick.
I have finally decided to fit the jack normal way up, so I then moved on to making the jack mount/tool holder.
First I measured the gap inside the legs, then welded some 25mm box to the jack plate, giving about 1 - 2mm clearance either end.
Next I welded some 16mm round bar to the insides of the legs to act as guides for the jack.
More tomorrow, hopefully.
Cheers, Mick.
I hope your going to rub that down with 1200 grit before you paint it
Aye, right before the 6 clear coats!
Cheers, Mick.
Nearly there!
More frenetic activity today.
This is the jack top mounting plate.
And some 12mm threaded stainless bar that just happened to have 4 nuts already on it. Note the use of an old welding glove to prevent damage to the threads when held in the vice!
A couple of pics of the top mount, which is actually a very good fit after I took time to measure and mark out before drilling the holes in it.
I also carefully measured the location of the top plate before welding it onto the top beam.
The jack in-situ for the first time.
Next job was to fill in this extra hole in the upright (because I didn't account for it when drilling for the saddle support pins!
After a bit of fettling with the die grinder and angle grinder you'd never know it'd been there.
Et voila!!!!!! Just needs a return system and the jack securing to the tool holder and it's done. Hell, I might even paint it.
I can thoroughly recommend these for welding anything up to 10mm thick.
Cheers, Mick.
More frenetic activity today.
This is the jack top mounting plate.
And some 12mm threaded stainless bar that just happened to have 4 nuts already on it. Note the use of an old welding glove to prevent damage to the threads when held in the vice!
A couple of pics of the top mount, which is actually a very good fit after I took time to measure and mark out before drilling the holes in it.
I also carefully measured the location of the top plate before welding it onto the top beam.
The jack in-situ for the first time.
Next job was to fill in this extra hole in the upright (because I didn't account for it when drilling for the saddle support pins!
After a bit of fettling with the die grinder and angle grinder you'd never know it'd been there.
Et voila!!!!!! Just needs a return system and the jack securing to the tool holder and it's done. Hell, I might even paint it.
I can thoroughly recommend these for welding anything up to 10mm thick.
Cheers, Mick.
Ingenius method of holding the jack in place mate, as for the return system get for extension springs that are at relaxed length with the jack fully closed. You should be able to get the springs from an angineering supplier easily enough, you probably want to have maybe 8 - 10 inches max extension on the springs (its probably even too much).
a chain link in each corner of the plate, and another directly above on the top beams.
I hope i`ve explained myself clearly, i confuse myself sometimes lol
a chain link in each corner of the plate, and another directly above on the top beams.
I hope i`ve explained myself clearly, i confuse myself sometimes lol
I understand your idea, but this jack takes probably 30kg or more to return it (could be that I'm not brave enough to open the return valve far enough, or that it's near freezing and the oil's really thick) and then there's the added weight of the lower jack mount. I did also think of a mechanical linkage with large counter weight that should work ok.
I also have a few motorcycle fork springs in the scrap bin that should do the job, but they're compression springs.
Cheers, Mick.
I also have a few motorcycle fork springs in the scrap bin that should do the job, but they're compression springs.
Cheers, Mick.
roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
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- North West with water on 3 sides
is this press going to be used for bearings and the like? how are you going to mount the tooling to the base of the jack or am i looking at this in another perspective. Either way its a great job and been an intresting read
To mount the tooling, I'm going to make a sleeve with a grub screw in it to accept a round shank. That will be welded onto the bottom of the jack mount. That way I can change tooling very easily and quickly. It also means that I can spend some more time messing about designing tooling for it!
Cheers, Mick.
Cheers, Mick.
gash metal worker
Member
- Messages
- 30
Sorry to come in late on this,I have made some thing similar.In my press the jacks [one or two 20 t ] are mounted at the bottom ,they work to lift a sliding bed up, the weight of the bed is enough to bring them down again.The tools are mounted in a horisontal slide at the top,it will bend 150mm x10mm plate.
gordon stephenson
Member
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- 7,462
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- Skelton in Cleveland U.K.
Hello Mick, Watching the thread with great interest,I too am envious of your "scrap pile" My scrap pile is just that,Scrap. Lovely strong job and progressing very well,I am not OCD but only bit a don't like is the screwed rod used to retain the jack,I would have to use bolts/studs or sleeve the screwed rod just to finish it off.I am trying to figure out a design for a bender/folder for mine,
Cheers Gordon,
Cheers Gordon,
roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
- Messages
- 12,164
- Location
- North West with water on 3 sides
Are you still looking for springs..i have found a couple here that may do you,pm me your address and ile pop them in the post to ya 1st class
ps...just knocked up a mini press myself for electric motor bearings.
ps...just knocked up a mini press myself for electric motor bearings.
roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
- Messages
- 12,164
- Location
- North West with water on 3 sides
PM sent
I would've used M12 bolts to hold the jack, but didn't have any that were long enough.
Cheers, Mick.
right back at ya
Almost finished! Thanks to Roofman I now have some return springs. First job was to machine up a tooling holder for under the jack plate. Here it is welded in place, complete with M10 pinch bolt.
Next I welded on some bits of angle with a hole drilled in them to act as lower spring anchors. The last bit was to assemble all the stuff and try it out.
A quick test of the jack revealed that things seem to move ok, with no binding of the jack plate assembly, but the return springs are not strong enough to return all the way to the top of the travel. " more springs will probably sort that one out!
Just need to cut up some plate for the lower anvil/tooling holder.
Cheers, Mick.
Next I welded on some bits of angle with a hole drilled in them to act as lower spring anchors. The last bit was to assemble all the stuff and try it out.
A quick test of the jack revealed that things seem to move ok, with no binding of the jack plate assembly, but the return springs are not strong enough to return all the way to the top of the travel. " more springs will probably sort that one out!
Just need to cut up some plate for the lower anvil/tooling holder.
Cheers, Mick.
