hydraulic ram repair

[normspanners]

you dont have to replace, just re-chroming them works perfectly well , I have repaired loads of rams and some with imperial seals that were obsolete by chroming up and going to the next size up, but in metric style seals, that might mean re machining the gland bush etc but that is no problem there is usually enough meat in them to successfully repair most rams back to like new at a fraction of the cost.

 

[rory1]

If you have the tools it's not worth messing about filling and sanding, just change the rod. For example - recently I bought 1.5m of 35mm rod, 45 plus the vat and a 1.5m length of 60mm was 75 ish plus the vat

 

[dannyp]

Danny, what's the main cause of the flail shafts bending, wire wrapping round forcing the shaft away from the head?

thats i'm still unsure of i just get the fun of fixing them and never quite get the full story of what happend, while wire cant do them any good especaly whe it wraps rounfd up by the bearings and its a complete and utter pain i don't think i bends the shafts as such.

at work we were doing bearings on a lot of flails when this 3 yr cutting became popular, my theory being that they were ether trying to take to much off at a go for the machene, or that they were takeing that much off they chouldnt really see what there cutting and ramming it into stuff that much to thick and or sawn off telegraph poles. the other possobity is they were triming verges with them and found something.

dose seem to have stopped now but all contractors we see have had new (bigger ) trimmers so ether they can cope with 3 yr growth ect or they are being much more carefull with them due to being traumatised by the price of a new one i'm not sure

 

[Bill Edwards]

thats i'm still unsure of i just get the fun of fixing them and never quite get the full story of what happend, while wire cant do them any good especaly whe it wraps rounfd up by the bearings and its a complete and utter pain i don't think i bends the shafts as such.

at work we were doing bearings on a lot of flails when this 3 yr cutting became popular, my theory being that they were ether trying to take to much off at a go for the machene, or that they were takeing that much off they chouldnt really see what there cutting and ramming it into stuff that much to thick and or sawn off telegraph poles. the other possobity is they were triming verges with them and found something.

dose seem to have stopped now but all contractors we see have had new (bigger ) trimmers so ether they can cope with 3 yr growth ect or they are being much more carefull with them due to being traumatised by the price of a new one i'm not sure

People vary but some I know have the same complete and utter lack of respect for their equipment whether it cost hundreds or several tens of thousands! So they're probably a more solid design/build than being used better.

 

[Turbo]

When I was in college we got a tour of the McConnell hedge cutter factory. They were proudly showing off their new cnc machine that was producing the spool valve blocks. As a complete contrast we saw the poor bloke that hand assembled & mig welded the flail cutting heads with the aid of a simple jig.

 

[kier]

If you have the tools it's not worth messing about filling and sanding, just change the rod. For example - recently I bought 1.5m of 35mm rod, 45 plus the vat and a 1.5m length of 60mm was 75 ish plus the vat

I will keep that in mind

 

[Pete.]

On our older machines the rods have a roll pin set in the end to help align the hinge block. It's handy for when the weld fails on site and you need to do a quick weld repair. All you do is get d back the weld, fit the block with a new hinge pin, stick the roll pin in the hole and weld it.

 

[Bill Edwards]

If you have the tools it's not worth messing about filling and sanding, just change the rod. For example - recently I bought 1.5m of 35mm rod, 45 plus the vat and a 1.5m length of 60mm was 75 ish plus the vat

I'm from Yorkshire

I expect the biggest/hardest part of making your own must be threading the end for a nut/bolt which holds the seals in place in the cylinder?

 

[WorkshopChris]

If you have the tools it's not worth messing about filling and sanding, just change the rod. For example - recently I bought 1.5m of 35mm rod, 45 plus the vat and a 1.5m length of 60mm was 75 ish plus the vat

Was that for chromed rod, thats a lot better price than the last lot i enquired about.

 

[rory1]

Bill Edwards - The rod is usually turned down and a piston that takes the seals is threaded on. I don't think of it as the difficult bit though as I'm doing it fairly regularly.

Workshop Chris- that's for chrome cylinder rod from a hydraulic suppliers

 

[rory1]

On our older machines the rods have a roll pin set in the end to help align the hinge block. It's handy for when the weld fails on site and you need to do a quick weld repair. All you do is get d back the weld, fit the block with a new hinge pin, stick the roll pin in the hole and weld it.

When I put a end on a cylinder I always turn a bit of a register on the end of the weld prep for location. Makes it much easier to align for welding

I think This is a 40mm rod with a eye that I have turned that suits a spherical bearing. Cant remember what it's for but it looks like it could be a articulated dumper steer cylinder

 

[Bill Edwards]

Bill Edwards - The rod is usually turned down and a piston that takes the seals is threaded on. I don't think of it as the difficult bit though as I'm doing it fairly regularly.

Workshop Chris- that's for chrome cylinder rod from a hydraulic suppliers

Well difficult as in there's more to cutting a thread and having a decent sized lathe than welding an eye on.